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  #11  
Old 01-07-2019, 10:56 AM
Mike S's Avatar
Mike S Mike S is offline
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Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Gary, my washer "stack-up" per the plans makes for plenty loose slide-in fit of the brackets, at least before they are bonded to the wheel pant. I don't want to be messing with the axle bolt if I can help it - the MATCO axle is safetied in with a set screw and collar, and I'm not sure (without studying it more) that I want to mess with that torque every time I take the pant off.
I had the Matco axle in my 10, not an issue. I just removed the front allan head bolts and loosened the axle nut---pant slides right off. You do not need to disturb the bearing preload, it is set by the collar on the axle.

I did make sure to have a good fit with the spacer stack, used calipers to set for a few thou negative clearance. Also used a large area washer on the outside of the stack. Seems I remember the plans called for a standard washer there.
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Last edited by Mike S : 01-07-2019 at 11:58 AM.
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  #12  
Old 01-07-2019, 11:17 AM
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I'll have to check washer size, Mike.

Correct on the bearing preload set.

The tolerance you speak of - is it referencing washer thickness, or diameter?
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  #13  
Old 01-07-2019, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Gary, my washer "stack-up" per the plans makes for plenty loose slide-in fit of the brackets, at least before they are bonded to the wheel pant. I don't want to be messing with the axle bolt if I can help it - the MATCO axle is safetied in with a set screw and collar, and I'm not sure (without studying it more) that I want to mess with that torque every time I take the pant off.

Yes, it's just like my -6A assembly.

The AN960-616 and AN960-616L shown on the axle stack up on the outside of the yoke should provide plenty of clearance to slide in the aft nose gear fairing.

Top right of Page 46-05

You might have to relieve the edges so the aft fairing doesn't catch when being slid forward during installation.
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Last edited by az_gila : 01-07-2019 at 11:43 AM.
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  #14  
Old 01-07-2019, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post

The tolerance you speak of - is it referencing washer thickness, or diameter?
Thickness.

Way back when I was doing this, there were some cases where the front of the bracket had broken off, blame seemed to be excessive clearance on the spacer stack----allowing the pant to move around just enough to fatigue the mount until it broke.

http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...n+nose+bracket
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VAF 909

Rv-10, N210LM.

Flying as of 12/4/2010

Phase 1 done, 2/4/2011

Sold after 240+ wonderful hours of flight.

"Flying the airplane is more important than radioing your plight to a person on the ground incapable of understanding or doing anything about it."

Last edited by Mike S : 01-07-2019 at 11:57 AM.
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  #15  
Old 01-07-2019, 12:28 PM
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Interesting thread, Mike. The brackets shown in your picture appear to have fractured at the line of contact with the aft edge of the tow bar spacer. I wonder if the edge of that spacer should receive a small radius to prevent it from cutting into the bracket.

I will add grinding washers to minimum acceptable stackup thickness to my list of steps here this week.

Got an IO-540 core arriving tomorrow (hopefully) so I'll be facing "shiny-object" distraction syndrome in the evenings until the "new" wears off...
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  #16  
Old 01-07-2019, 11:20 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
Gary, my washer "stack-up" per the plans makes for plenty loose slide-in fit of the brackets, at least before they are bonded to the wheel pant. I don't want to be messing with the axle bolt if I can help it - the MATCO axle is safetied in with a set screw and collar, and I'm not sure (without studying it more) that I want to mess with that torque every time I take the pant off.
If you are using the special matco axle with the collar, you don't need to mess with it. Once set, you can loosen and tighten the axle nut (not the internal axle collar, without impacting the bearing preload.

Larry
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  #17  
Old 01-08-2019, 12:30 PM
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Default That's what I thought

Good to be reminded. I like the MATCO stuff so far - seems a good investment.

Definitely putting in an air door or air hole to avoid the need to take the pants off much in routine service, though.
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  #18  
Old 01-09-2019, 06:02 PM
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Default A further question

... about the 1" holes the plans call for in the sides of the nose wheel pant to allow access to the cap screws and of course the tow bar: I've seen where builders have armored this area with a SS washer embedded in the glass to protect the hole edges from scratches in use.

My question is whether 1" is really required for clearance when using a typical tow bar. Seems overly large.

I guess they would typically be covered with snap-in hole plugs, but if not, they seem really draggy and un-cosmetic.
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  #19  
Old 01-12-2019, 04:12 PM
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Still waiting to hear if I should drill a one inch hole in the sides for a Bogart tow bar. Seems large, but what do I know?

Meanwhile, a small issue has emerged. I have a shape discrepancy like this on both sides but it's worse where shown. I can fix this with LOTS of micro on the back half of the pant and some sanding, or pull 95% of it out with an additional nut plate and #6 screw down low on both sides.

But I've had bad experiences with wheel pant screws too far down on the pants an a flat tire - nearly impossible to get a screwdriver on without jacking the plane.
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RV-6A - N30YD - flying since '98
RV-10 - N130YD reserved - under construction

donating monthly to the VAF - thanks, Doug
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  #20  
Old 01-12-2019, 04:30 PM
Kyle Boatright Kyle Boatright is offline
 
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Quote:
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Still waiting to hear if I should drill a one inch hole in the sides for a Bogart tow bar. Seems large, but what do I know?
Mine's 1". The Bogart bar has a lot of spring to it. It goes over center fairly abruptly. So a large hole is recommended to keep you from beating up the hole/wheelpant a lot.

I'm trying to come up with a of bushing or similar to protect the hole and an inch or so around it...
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