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  #1  
Old 09-15-2017, 01:09 PM
RugerRV-10 RugerRV-10 is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: North Carolina
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Default RV-10 Main Spar (section 13) questions

Hey VAF!, it's good to be on here again. I spent two years away from the build for various reasons, and now it's time to get back to it. I've got four questions for all you smarter builders out there:

1) When should I be looking at building the wing stand? I currently have two benches end-to-end that support the main spars, but I know it's a matter of time before the spars won't fit on a flat table surface at the same time. When did you transfer from the table to building on the stand? I have limited space in the one-car garage, otherwise, I'd have built it yesterday

2) The wing plans section 13 don't call for deburring the holes anywhere in there (referring to the opposite side of the machine countersinking that is done primarily on the flanges of the spars). Obviously, to me at least, this is part of the graduating level of proficiency as builders progress. Stupid question, but did you all deburr the main spar holes? Common sense tells me "of course", but there's a little part of me that wonders if that beautiful anodized finish should be left alone.

3) Similar to above, page 13-3(?-don't have plans in front of me) step 8 calls for spot priming the countersunk areas from steps 5 and 7. These are the screw attach points, and priming makes sense here. What about the other hundreds of countersunk places on the main spar where rivets attach? No priming there? What did you do?

4) p. 13-4 step 2: countersinking the upper- and lower- most holes for the nutplate attach rivet holes, my countersink collar doesn't fit. Did you manually countersink there with the bit and no collar for precision depth? That's my plan, unless someone can recommend a different option I'm not thinking about.

I will say that I noticed a new section 5 was released during the time I was away, so I will be sure to read that again. Sorry to bother you all with the mundane, but I appreciate the help! n Thanks!

-Miguel
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Last edited by RugerRV-10 : 09-15-2017 at 01:22 PM. Reason: minor changes for clarity
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Old 09-15-2017, 01:25 PM
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Auburntsts Auburntsts is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dumfries, VA
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Default

Lets see, I don't recall exactly when I built the stand but I'm pretty sure I didn't start using it until I mounted the outboard leading edges in Sec 17. I didn't edge deburr the spar but I did prime all of the CSKs that I made plus a couple scratches I put in the anodized finish. And I can't recall what I did for the CSKs on the nutplate holes you mention, but I have done CSKs free hand as you propose and they turned out fine. You could always mod your microstop as well, but I never did that myself.
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Last edited by Auburntsts : 09-15-2017 at 01:32 PM.
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Old 09-15-2017, 02:03 PM
bsvantho bsvantho is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Rochester Hills, MI
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Default

1) You will probably want to have the wing stand available before you start Section 20 in order to rivet the bottom skins. I built mine sometime after Section 17.
2) I deburred the spar holes. I too did not see an exception here. You may also see stress marks in the anodized finish emanating radially around holes after riveting. It was troubling to me, but as I understand this is normal as the anodized layer is very hard and brittle.
3) Yes, apply primer to all areas were you remove the anodization layer. See page 13-3 step 8 for confirmation of this.
4) There are a few places where countersinking 'free hand' without a microstop will work fine, just go slow and check often.
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Old 09-15-2017, 02:05 PM
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ERushing ERushing is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Underwood, WA
Posts: 369
Default Extended Microstop

I bought quick build wings so take what I say with a grain of salt...

However, I bought an extended Microstop countersink cage from Aircraft Tool supply. Perhaps this might fit in that area. I've used it several times in the build so it might be a worthwhile tool to have anyway!

Best Regards,
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