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  #11  
Old 09-14-2017, 05:34 PM
RV82014 RV82014 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Tampa
Posts: 9
Default Rv 10 rdd baffle kit

Anyone using the rv10 baffle kit that rdd makes? It looks like a copy of what the people that the build the sportsmen 2+2. I know it works well with the io 390 engine on the sportsmen.
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  #12  
Old 09-15-2017, 10:54 AM
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Bluelabel Bluelabel is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AviatorJ View Post
John, what's on your firewall?
It's Lava Shield from Heat Shield Products.... a local company here in San Diego, but available from Summit Racing
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John Walker
RV-10 N265WD
"Miss Whiskey Delta"
BPE IO-540, FULL EFII
KMYF, San Diego, Ca.
KEOS, Neosho, MO

Crew Lead on the
Grove Aero Super Legacy Reno Racer,
twin turbo, IO-540,
full EFII management system
!

"so I got that going for me... which is nice."
2017 Dues Paid"
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  #13  
Old 09-15-2017, 06:39 PM
AviatorJ AviatorJ is offline
 
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Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 519
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Thanks. Might be over kill but I might put that over the foil just as extra fire protection.
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RV-10 Quickbuild 'Engine, Avionics and Interior'
http://operationrv10.blogspot.com/
Donated for 2018
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  #14  
Old 09-17-2017, 07:34 PM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: West Fargo, ND
Posts: 958
Talking Wow

Yesterday I replaced my original baffle seals with this same, thicker material. I thought my originals were pretty good but wasn't completely satisfied with the back corners, overlaps and transition at the inlets. I was able to install the new ones with only a couple cuts and they seal to the top cowl much better, overall a much cleaner install.

I flew today and have never seen temps this cool. #3 was down in the 330's in climb and my hottest cylinder, #4, only got to 370 in a climb to 10,000'. Cruise was +/- 350, whereas normally is around 370. Granted, it was a cool day in the mid sixties but nonetheless, it seems reworking my baffles, that I thought were good already, made a big difference.

I also tried something on my oil cooler, which mounts to the rear of the engine baffle. (Should get a picture). It seams to me that air can exit straight rearward through the cooling fins, but also through holes in the top and bottom of the oil cooler?? I took RTV sealant and closed off the holes in the top of the oil cooler, front and rear... oil temps never went over 155 (normally 170's). I think not only did this make more air travel through the fins but also decreased the amount of air pouring through the oil cooler exit.

Good day for me, maybe I can advance my pmag timing now
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EAA Tech Counselor
RV-9A #92103 - N803DK
G3X, Superior XO-320, Dual Pmags, Whirlwind GA
www.mykitlog.com/dbro172/

RV-8 #83565 - N184DK - building
1968 Mooney M20C - Sold
1956 C-182 - Sold
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  #15  
Old 09-18-2017, 02:21 PM
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Bluelabel Bluelabel is offline
 
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Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbro172 View Post
Yesterday I replaced my original baffle seals with this same, thicker material. I thought my originals were pretty good but wasn't completely satisfied with the back corners, overlaps and transition at the inlets. I was able to install the new ones with only a couple cuts and they seal to the top cowl much better, overall a much cleaner install.

I flew today and have never seen temps this cool. #3 was down in the 330's in climb and my hottest cylinder, #4, only got to 370 in a climb to 10,000'. Cruise was +/- 350, whereas normally is around 370. Granted, it was a cool day in the mid sixties but nonetheless, it seems reworking my baffles, that I thought were good already, made a big difference.

I also tried something on my oil cooler, which mounts to the rear of the engine baffle. (Should get a picture). It seams to me that air can exit straight rearward through the cooling fins, but also through holes in the top and bottom of the oil cooler?? I took RTV sealant and closed off the holes in the top of the oil cooler, front and rear... oil temps never went over 155 (normally 170's). I think not only did this make more air travel through the fins but also decreased the amount of air pouring through the oil cooler exit.

Good day for me, maybe I can advance my pmag timing now
That's good work. Except, and I think most people will agree, you are not doing your oil or you engine any justice by not getting your oil above 180. (180-200 is optimum) That's the magic number to cook off any moisture that resides after the plane sits after a flight. This is straight tout of Bill Ross's Engine Management 101
My oil temps are usually right at 180, so I actually added a butterfly valve, so in cruise, I can close off some of the air to the oil cooler and get more air to the cylinders. I let the oil come up to about 190(ish) and that gets a few more degrees cooling to #6... Just my 2 cents....
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John Walker
RV-10 N265WD
"Miss Whiskey Delta"
BPE IO-540, FULL EFII
KMYF, San Diego, Ca.
KEOS, Neosho, MO

Crew Lead on the
Grove Aero Super Legacy Reno Racer,
twin turbo, IO-540,
full EFII management system
!

"so I got that going for me... which is nice."
2017 Dues Paid"
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  #16  
Old 09-18-2017, 09:12 PM
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Dbro172 Dbro172 is offline
 
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Location: West Fargo, ND
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluelabel View Post
That's good work. Except, and I think most people will agree, you are not doing your oil or you engine any justice by not getting your oil above 180. (180-200 is optimum) That's the magic number to cook off any moisture that resides after the plane sits after a flight. This is straight tout of Bill Ross's Engine Management 101
My oil temps are usually right at 180, so I actually added a butterfly valve, so in cruise, I can close off some of the air to the oil cooler and get more air to the cylinders. I let the oil come up to about 190(ish) and that gets a few more degrees cooling to #6... Just my 2 cents....
Well yeah, I just close off the the oil cooler to bring the oil temp up. Pretty common up here in the North with 100 degree temp swings from winter to summer. I dont think there is anything magical about 180 degrees though, maybe just the speed at which it cooks off any moisture. And the duration you fly at any given temp is probably a factor as well. After all, isn't the weakest link the condition of the atmosphere at where the aircraft is parked?
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Derek Hoeschen
EAA Tech Counselor
RV-9A #92103 - N803DK
G3X, Superior XO-320, Dual Pmags, Whirlwind GA
www.mykitlog.com/dbro172/

RV-8 #83565 - N184DK - building
1968 Mooney M20C - Sold
1956 C-182 - Sold
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  #17  
Old 09-18-2017, 11:13 PM
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Bluelabel Bluelabel is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: San Diego, Ca
Posts: 401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dbro172 View Post
Well yeah, I just close off the the oil cooler to bring the oil temp up. Pretty common up here in the North with 100 degree temp swings from winter to summer. I dont think there is anything magical about 180 degrees though, maybe just the speed at which it cooks off any moisture. And the duration you fly at any given temp is probably a factor as well. After all, isn't the weakest link the condition of the atmosphere at where the aircraft is parked?
That's true... I just have always followed the advice of engine builders and people who know more than me. And that advice was that you want your oil to be over 180, and that if you do go out for a short "around the patch" flight, (Like I did Friday), fly long enough to let your oil hit 180....

It might be a couple weeks before I have any high cruise flights where I can see off the new baffle seals really made a difference or not. Got a lot of short hops and sight seeing flights coming up. (not that I'm complaining)
__________________
John Walker
RV-10 N265WD
"Miss Whiskey Delta"
BPE IO-540, FULL EFII
KMYF, San Diego, Ca.
KEOS, Neosho, MO

Crew Lead on the
Grove Aero Super Legacy Reno Racer,
twin turbo, IO-540,
full EFII management system
!

"so I got that going for me... which is nice."
2017 Dues Paid"

Last edited by Bluelabel : 09-20-2017 at 11:52 PM.
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