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  #21  
Old 04-07-2015, 01:16 PM
Jackm Jackm is offline
 
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I think it may save some time during the build....It covers a large area of the interior cabin top that is bit rough to finish. It has many above mentioned benefits but the one no one mentioned yet...The Coat hanger
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  #22  
Old 04-07-2015, 01:41 PM
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rleffler rleffler is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackm View Post
I think it may save some time during the build....It covers a large area of the interior cabin top that is bit rough to finish. It has many above mentioned benefits but the one no one mentioned yet...The Coat hanger
Jack,

I would debate that the most desirable feature for those with young kids is the access panel to install the DVD player and screen. That's one mod I didn't install, but I know those that have.

To the OP,

You've heard many opinions in this thread and they are just that, opinions. None are right or wrong. Sometimes on VAF, folks get a little hung up on justification of their personal decisions, but like I said, they are their personal decisions. You have to decide what your personal decisions will be. The same goes for primer, avionics, and just about any build decision you'll see on VAF. Nobody else can define your mission and needs but you.

bob
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  #23  
Old 04-07-2015, 05:47 PM
bpattonsoa bpattonsoa is offline
 
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Location: Indepenence, Oregon
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Bob is right, it is your airplane and you get to make the decisions. The exception in my case was my wife who said the -6A is too small, build a -10!

What you can get on this list are ideas, solutions to problems, and help. Every option I put in my ship was researched on this site and the Internet. I ended up with almost perfect, for us, and don't regret any of the changes I made. Despite the changes I was only 1624 lbs ready to fly less paint.

You learn which members you need to take with a grain of salt, those that need the whole salt shaker and who to trust. Just do the research.
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RV-10 996S tail, quick build wing and slow build fues., - dual Skyviews with complete system, two radio and not much else. Interior completely finished with Zolatone. CF plenum, interior complete. 1624 lbs, FLYING after a 21.5 month build.
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  #24  
Old 09-21-2017, 08:43 AM
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
Posts: 898
Default two jacks or four?

Quote:
Originally Posted by aerhed View Post
I'm with gary here. Last one had rear nacas and an accuracy console. This time I made low profile consoles myself for antennae, lights, rear headset jacks , and lighter. I skipped the extra vents. Maybe saved ten pounds.
It seems like a no-brainer to put the jacks for the rear pax in the overhead, but I'm wondering about the pro's and con's of doing the same with the front seaters' headset jacks (vs. mounting them in the instrument panel or elsewhere in the forward cockpit area.)

Planning to have seatbelt hangers, air vents for the front seaters up there on the overhead, but no lighting, if that matters, and also likely the wife and I will be using Halo's vs. cupped headsets.

Opinions welcome; wiring deadline soon
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  #25  
Old 09-21-2017, 10:08 AM
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flion flion is offline
 
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Location: Flagstaff, AZ
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All options are good. I'm going with the aerosport center console, and all my power and headset jacks are going there (except for USB power that is in the panel). Here is the installation entry from my KitLog. I decided that headset wires, especially those with noise-cancelling controls, would be too heavy to suspend from the ceiling. However, my oxygen supply ports are in the overhead because oxygen supply hose is feather light. I didn't put jacks in the console because I like center-located jacks (I can get in the aircraft without crawling over cords or having to plug them in after I'm sitting down) and on the panel that would interfere with the engine controls. But, as with the overhead itself, all options work and are good based on your personal preference.
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  #26  
Old 09-21-2017, 09:08 PM
leok leok is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 154
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I have an overhead console, home brew, and like how it turned out. I have pretty much everything you could stuff in up there, lighting, GPS, air vents, switches, heater controls.

I like my seatback tilted further rearward, so headroom is no issue.

I also made a center console that fits the tunnel where headset jacks, USB ports and headset storage find their home. It also gives a very comfortable elbow/arm rest when seated.

In a few years, once I am flying, hopefully I am still as pleased with it...
Added weight (excluding stuff that would be located somewhere else any way) is about 5 pounds total.
As others have stated, all personal choices that I don't feel the need to defend or sell. Individualism and choice without someone telling me what I can and can't do (and hopefully some good judgement) is what make this soo much fun!
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  #27  
Old 09-22-2017, 05:20 AM
Bill Boyd Bill Boyd is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Landing field "12VA"
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Default Leo--

since I built my overhead using your mold, I guess I'm particularly interested to hear your choices for headset jack locations front and rear - especially in light of that amazing wiring harness engineering job you shared with us recently.
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  #28  
Old 09-22-2017, 06:30 AM
leok leok is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Boyd View Post
since I built my overhead using your mold, I guess I'm particularly interested to hear your choices for headset jack locations front and rear - especially in light of that amazing wiring harness engineering job you shared with us recently.

Bill,

Since as already mentioned, I also don't like climbing in around wires, the jacks needed to go in the center. I also don't like stringing wires all around the cockpit (like I do now in the 182 to power the iPad, Stratus etc.) I wanted USB outlets available also in the center. I also run Bose headsets and can't bare to leave them in plain sight (too expensive) when I park the aircraft somewhere while in travel mode. So I needed somewhere to stow them out of sight when not in use.
And lastly I like the center console arm rest in my big fat SUV that I drive .... I decided to do a center console.

First pic is the wiring insert with all of the jacks fore and aft. The front jacks go inside the center console.

[IMG][/IMG]

Aft view

[IMG][/IMG]

Front jacks inside with the wire/connector attached

[IMG][/IMG]

Console attached to the center tunnel cover. It's on the large side, and not as stylish as some, but will fit 4 pair of Bose headsets (or whatever "stuff" the wife needs at hand while flying). One Item I am considering is cutting two cup holder inserts into the top ... not sure yet. I might end up putting those elsewhere.

[IMG][/IMG]

It will get lightly padded on top, covered with leather, French seams at the edges and an insert liner inside to clean up the appearance. The wire bundle comes in under the passenger seat, into the tunnel and up through the bottom just aft of the front/rear tunnel cover joint so everything comes off without fishing wires through holes. The hole in the bottom of the console is big enough to fit the connector through so it comes out cleanly with 4 screws.

I am willing to give the mold away for this as well, since I don't need it hanging around gathering dust ... and I have too much work into it to just toss it out.
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Last edited by leok : 10-04-2017 at 12:08 PM. Reason: spelling and some additional content
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  #29  
Old 09-22-2017, 09:21 AM
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ppilotmike ppilotmike is offline
 
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Location: Denver, CO
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leok View Post
Bill,

Since as already mentioned, I also don't like climbing in around wires, the jacks needed to go in the center. I also don't like stringing wires all around the cockpit (like I do now in the 182 to power the iPad, Stratus etc.) I wanted USB outlets available also in the center. I also run Bose headsets and can't bare to leave them in plain sight (too expensive) when I park the aircraft somewhere while in travel mode. So I needed somewhere to stow them out of sight when not in use.
And lastly I like the center console arm rest in my big fat SUV that I drive .... I decided to do a center console.

First pic is the wiring insert with all of the jacks fore and aft. The front jacks go inside the center console.

[IMG][/IMG]

Aft view

[IMG][/IMG]

Front jacks inside with the wire/connector attached

[IMG][/IMG]

Console attached to the center tunnel cover. It's on the large side, and not as stylish as some, but will fit 4 pair of Bose headsets (or whatever "stuff" the wife needs at hand while flying). One Item I am considering is cutting two cup holder inserts into the top ... not sure yet. I might end up putting those elsewhere.

[IMG][/IMG]

It will get lightly padded on top, covered with leather, French seams at the edges and an insert liner inside to clean up the appearance. The wire bundle comes in under the passenger seat, into the tunnel and up through the bottom just aft of the front/rear tunnel cover joint so everything comes off without fishing wires through holes. The hole in the bottom of the console is big enough to fit the connector through so it comes out cleanly with 4 screws.

I am willing to give the mold away for this as well, sine I don't need it hanging around gathering dust ... and I have too much work into it to just toss it out.
Leo,

I'd be interested in your center console mold. This is exactly what I was wanting. Tell me what I need to do.

Mike Rettig
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  #30  
Old 09-22-2017, 10:21 AM
leok leok is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Clarkston, MI
Posts: 154
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Mike,

PM me where to send it to. All I ask is that you send it on to anyone else that might want to use it.

The mold is for the basic "bucket".
After making the basic part from the mold, form the top rim, cutting the top off, place the part on a piece of glass open top down (waxed or packing tape for release) and run a strip of layup around the edge. Trim to a clean edge when cured.

To form the bottom, first trim the edges from the mold nice and flat. Then set the molded part on a piece of glass with release agent. Pre-wet the precut glass layup with epoxy (between plastic wrap if you want low mess) and tuck it into place forming a bottom.
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