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Modifications that you have Made to your RV-12 after Certification? E-LSA Only!

https://picasaweb.google.com/107137...idPlate12272011?authkey=Gv1sRgCLKpwtvXxqnOWg#

I have worried about turning this fitting while taking the tank out ( at least ) yearly. While doing tank 'CLIP' mod, decided to do this mod. I spent 2 hour serious work making the alum plate. I mixed JB Weld to put under the plate. The plate fitting is fairly snug, and takes a hammer and punch to put in place. I have not tried it yet, but thought anyone doing the tank mod might like to consider doing it also.

John Bender

To all RV-12 owners and builders, this mod could save you from a major fuel leak when you remove your tank for annual. I have cringed at trying to get a wrench on the second nut to relieve the pressure from installing and removing the two tank lines. This mod removes that worry.

IMHO, this is one of the best mods you can do the next time you have the tank out.

Well done John B.
 
This should be considered by everyone even BEFORE that first annual. Guess where my only tank leak is? I actually twisted it slightly when attaching the pressure test hoses. You know what I will be making today!
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https://picasaweb.google.com/107137...idPlate12272011?authkey=Gv1sRgCLKpwtvXxqnOWg#

I have worried about turning this fitting while taking the tank out ( at least ) yearly. While doing tank 'CLIP' mod, decided to do this mod. I spent 2 hour serious work making the alum plate. I mixed JB Weld to put under the plate. The plate fitting is fairly snug, and takes a hammer and punch to put in place. I have not tried it yet, but thought anyone doing the tank mod might like to consider doing it also.

John Bender

What thickness did you use for this?

Thanks,

Dan
 
Hey Dan - -

I think it was 3/32" or 1/8". Fairly stiff stuff. It will not twist or move. I think I could twist the fitting off without the base moving. I have filled my tank up until you can see fuel in the neck. NO LEAKS !

John Bender
362.3 hours as of today.
 
Side Pockets

I really did not want to opt for the full interior, but, wanted a few pockets for those odds and ends. Called Abby at Flightline Interiors and received the 2 pockets for the left side and 2 pockets for the right side. Abby can do just about anything!! Her work is superb. Ordered a pair of the headphone straps at the same time (discussed previously). And notice the new PTT switches and grips from Dave Allen, much better.

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Step makeover

I'm cheating a bit here because my plane isn't finished yet, but I've been wondering how to improve the appearance and streamline the tube at the bottom of the step. Came across these chair leg tips yesterday in the furniture section of Bunnings Aviation Dept. (You should be able to get them from most hardware stores).

These plastic plugs neatly cap the ends of the tube. The ribs on the cap are not a tight push fit, but I plan to proseal them in once the legs have been painted. Simple and cheap.

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Where to buy in USA

Does anybody know where to buy these in the US? I have looked at my local big box stores with no luck. Thanks.
 
Does anybody know where to buy these in the US? I have looked at my local big box stores with no luck. Thanks.

John
If you can't find them, I can get them here in Australia and post them to you, or anyone else who wants them. There is a Bunnings store (our equivalent to Lowes) just down the road.
John
 
Does anybody know where to buy these in the US? I have looked at my local big box stores with no luck. Thanks.

John,
You should be able to get them from most hardware stores. The tips are intended for chair legs. As per John's (rjtjrt) offer, I'm happy to send some over to anyone who wants them if you can't get them locally. I notice your RV of interest is the -10. These fit the -12's steps.
 
Thanks for the offer but no need

Thanks for the offer, but there is no need to send me any; I will find them locally. I guess I just need to try harder. By the way, I will probably be starting a 12 soon and wait on the -10 till after the kids get thru high school.
 
Found the tips

Hi y'all, just found the plugs as described above at Lowe's here in the States. The guy in the store told me they don't have any, but looked in the hardware isle with all the screws and nuts and found them. They call them Furniture Plugs. Thanks for the tip. (Pun Intended)
 
Center Panel Section and Control Cables

This mod makes it possible to remove the center instrument panel section without removing then reinstalling the three control cables to the engine. You may or may not anticipate ever modifying that center panel.

Some of us Skyview types have both the original center section (with the GPS cutout) and the new one without it. This mod shows:
a> Make SLOTS extending downward from the engine control cable holes in the new (final) panel piece. The slots cut all the way to the bottom of the panel piece.
b> Cut off the bottom of the OLD center panel piece. It will serve as a backer plate to block those slots.
c> Cut that backer plate so the control cables can be installed flat on the primary panel piece WITH their backing washer, at the top of the slot. Then, the backer plate should be cut to hit that washer and prevent any downward movement of the cable.
d> 2 nutplates, two screws to secure the backer plate.

With great care in the cutting of the slots (dremel and thin cutting disk, thin hacksaw blade), it could be possible to do this by loosening but not removing the cables on an existing installed center panel section.

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This second picture is showing the back side of the backer piece with nutplates attached.

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Assembled. The "hole" looks big because it accomodates the backing washer. But the cable is at the top of the slot in the exact same position as before the hole was slotted.

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Pics - Baggage bulkhead mod...

I am in the middle of an annual and have taken this opportunity of complete the mod to the baggage bulkhead and rear floor inspection panel that has been pioneered by others to allow inspection access without having to remove the fuel tank. Will also be doing the fuel tank reinforcement SB and installing a Moeller gauge on top while the tank is opened. Gad, this annual is getting to be a lot of work!
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And this is the access with the covers off:
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Many thanks to those who have gone before on this. Life should be a bit easier now. I hope to not take the tank out from now on except for cause.

The only issue I see is that Van's has never indicated whether these panels are structural or not. If they are, the mod may be a case of junior engineering a good design. If they find me face down in the trees somewhere with the tail cone a half mile from the wreck, you will know what happened and it will be all my fault and not Van's ;).

Tony
 
I put a few more screws in my alteration, upgrades mine from Junior Engineer to one step higher. I really feel mine is as strong as the one piece.
 
I put a few more screws in my alteration, upgrades mine from Junior Engineer to one step higher. I really feel mine is as strong as the one piece.

Likewise, and I dimpled for c/s screws to provide better mechanical interlock. Also added an angle stiffener across the back above the cutout. Probably overkill, but I can't help it - I'm an engineer :)

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I'm lucky I guess that I'm not an engineer so I can still sleep at night with the original design that Tony used. Actually, I'm really impressed with his interior paint job! By the way, one aeronautical engineer I know referred to our plane as the "flying diet coke can". What a great description....and it works so well!
 
I'm lucky I guess that I'm not an engineer so I can still sleep at night with the original design that Tony used. Actually, I'm really impressed with his interior paint job! By the way, one aeronautical engineer I know referred to our plane as the "flying diet coke can". What a great description....and it works so well!

Not to mention his exterior paint job! I've got a picture of his plane above my workbench ;)
Diet coke can, huh? Hmm, now there's an idea for a paint job.
 
Likewise, and I dimpled for c/s screws to provide better mechanical interlock. Also added an angle stiffener across the back above the cutout. Probably overkill, but I can't help it - I'm an engineer :)

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Now that is impressive!

Tony
 
Tank return line fitting lock plate

This is a variation on John Bender's lock plate idea to prevent the AN832-4D return line fitting on the bottom of the tank from rotating (post #147). I'm still building my tank, so it was an easy modification, although it took three attempts to get the hex cutout right (you need a Uni-bit, vise, hand file and patience). The piece was made from 1/16" plate.

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Thanks Bill H., belatedly, for your throttle cable mod. Definitely on my To-Do List.

Tony T. - re: the extensive job list for your Annual - you're becoming just like the Mariners - you know - the Seattle ReBuilders.

Bob Bogash
N737G
 
ANTI-SPLASH Fuel Fill System

For those that carry gas, that want to use Mogas, and maybe even for fuel pump fillers, I wanted a system that will hopefully cut back on gas splash on the window and plane.

The funnel I cut off and connected to a piece of sch 40 black plastic pipe. I wrapped black electrical tape around it to make it fit tight into the filler neck. You can make it tight as you want to fit. The Fast-flow gas can has a 3/4" plastic hose that goes -THRU- the strainer in the original funnel, that I cut the bottom out of. There is room around the hose for splash to come back up into the funnel, but has to go thru the mesh strainer first, which will cut down on splashing, yet breath.

The gas can, I changed the vent so that air is taken in thru the flexible copper tubing and to the bottom of the can, which is on top once you tip the can up. NOT A DROP SPILLS ON ANYTHING, but flows very fast.

Entire project - about 4 hours.

SO FAR - SO GOOD ! ! !

John Bender
386.8 hours



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The funnel I cut off and connected to a piece of sch 40 black plastic pipe. I wrapped black electrical tape around it to make it fit tight into the filler neck. You can make it tight as you want to fit.
John Bender
386.8 hours

John,
A funnel modified this way requires all of the vented air (the only tank vent is in the fuel cap) to bubble up through the level of the fuel that is in the funnel.
I would think this would flow very slowly, and possibly even be splashing fuel out of the funnel. No?
 
The best word used was - -

NO ! There is a opening around the fill plastic tube that is more than enough to allow any air out and up thru the funnel. In case of a splash back, it will have to go thru the strainer and just be in the funnel. This would allow you time to stop filling, and let the splash-back flow back in again. My testing indicates NO PROBLEM. Flows very fast, and air comes back up thru the funnel strainer.

If you have other concerns - fire away. I did not want to post 10 pictures, but I have more if any part is not clear enough.

John Bender
 
More Pics, More Pics

Sure...post ALL the pictures John so we can see it from different angles...maybe even one from the top down as if you were looking down into it?
 
I Like It!

I under stand what you are saying. But one question, where would one buy a funnel like that?:confused:
 
Hey John - -

http://www.agrisupply.com/gulper-funnel-with-removable-screen-&-spout/p/21655/

This site should be it. Bought at local farm store I think many years ago. Actually had 2 or 3, and cut one up to put inside the other for another plane years ago. The sch 40 black plasic pipe is 1 1/2" ID, and the plastic fill hose is 3/4" / 1" OD. Cut end out of funnel strainer and hope it makes sense.

PETE - inside joke - but appreciated !

John Bender
 
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Scott - - -

Maybe this will make things more clear. I put the 3/4" plastic fill hose THRU the hole I cut in the bottom of the strainer and neck down into the fill neck. Any air can come back up around the 1" OD fill hose and thru the strainer and out. The theory is, if splash back, it will not fly up but hit the strainer, and slowly start fillling the bottom of the funnel. You should have enough time to pull the can down, and let it flow on in if that happens. If it splashes back at some point, I'll post what it actually did. I feel this will stop gas from getting on anything but inside the tank.

John Bender
 
Maybe this will make things more clear. I put the 3/4" plastic fill hose THRU the hole I cut in the bottom of the strainer and neck down into the fill neck. Any air can come back up around the 1" OD fill hose and thru the strainer and out. The theory is, if splash back, it will not fly up but hit the strainer, and slowly start fillling the bottom of the funnel. You should have enough time to pull the can down, and let it flow on in if that happens. If it splashes back at some point, I'll post what it actually did. I feel this will stop gas from getting on anything but inside the tank.

John Bender

Ok, now I understand what you are doing. The info was right there in your post, I just didn't read/interpret it correctly (I will say it is my half swollen/itchy/allergy infected eyes that are to blame:eek:). I saw the extension hose on the jug but I didn't realize you were sticking the hose through the funnel screen and only using the funnel as a splash guard.

That should work well.

If someone did do this with a funnel, and then trid to pour fuel into the funnel... it would not work very well at all.
 
Scott - this may help also - -

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This is roughly what happens when you tip up the fast-flow can. I hope you can see there is a lot of space around the 1" OD fill hose. Any spash I hope is "arrested" at the strainer, but then can stay inside the funnel. I think it will work well. It has so far, but I have not maybe caused every situation to happen yet. My can vent system actually allows even faster flow than the original bleeder that would sometimes spit a little out. I do not spill a drip on anything now. Hope it keeps working well.

John Bender
 
GPS Handle

Hal_San and I were talking and griping about how hard it is to get good button pushes on the GPS when the air is rough and he went on home to do something about it. Next time I saw him he handed me this little handle you see to the right of the GPS:
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Obviously not applicable to you SkyViewers out there, only for us with the legacy panel.

I flew it in some pretty rough air on Sunday and it works great! Just hook your middle fingers on the handle and go to work on the GPS buttons with your thumb . It is made of aluminum rod, 3/8" I think, and attaches with existing screws. I didn't make it so I don't know how difficult it is to get the bends just right but it is very easy to install, especially if you used nutplates for the center panel screws. Thanks Hal!

Tony
 
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Minor mods: Control Lock, pitot and AOA cover

I have the Vans towbar which doubles as a parking brake-rudder lock. But I do not like holding the stick all the way back with the seat belt as a stabilator/flaperon lock. That has way too much up-pitch and is a wind catcher. I prefer the stabilator to be in neutral when locked.

A small piece of wood as shown - 2" x 5" x 3/4 inches thick, with a 1" semi-circular notch on one end (used a forstner bit, 7/8" will also work but not smaller) acts as a spacer. I stapled a piece of hook velcro on the other end to grip the fuzzy carpet. Intend to paint it yellow or red. Works well.

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In place. This could also be accomplished with a piece of PVC pipe perhaps. Making the wood block into an hourglass shape might save a few grams.

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Here is a pitot cover. Short piece of soft plastic tube. Plug one end with RTV and run safety wire through it to make a loop to tie "surveyor flagging tape" to. Drill a couple of holes #40 in the plastic tube so changes in barometric pressure will not affect the pitot system

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Finally, a similar cover for the AOA probe port if you use the basketball-inflation-needle variety rather than the rivet. As you can see, proper labeling of the flag takes care of the inevitable questions!

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Bill H N412BR "Sweetie"
 
Canopy Handle Tension

I found the easiest way to adjust canopy handle rotation resistance is to place the handle assembly on an anvil and smack the tube with a hammer to ovalize it so it fits tightly inside the canopy frame tube. Start easy and increase the hammer blow in steps until you get the desired resistance.
 
Additional inspection ports

Forgot to mention in my earlier post that I added 6 inspection ports. I cut 4" diameter holes under each control stick on the belly, two more on the belly for control cable rub block replacement, one near the aft belly and one on the right aft fuselage side to allow stabilator counter weight access. Each has a circular ring doubler riveted on the inner surface and uses six nut plates to hold on the 6" diameter covers. The real plus is that I now have access to the aft fuselage interior without removing the baggage bulkhead for all anticipated inspections and routine maintenance.
 
In the UK we can make mods to our RV-12s during build as they'll operate under our version of the US Experimental category. We get the mods approved by our Light Aircraft Association who look after homebuilds.

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Jerry (or anyone else who can answer):
I have yet to start on my forward fuselage kit. However, I was wondering: is this access plate already in the bottom of the fuselage? I REALLY like this modification!
Thanks,
 
Yes,this plate lets you attach the fuel lines to the bottom of the tank. Look earlier in this thread -page 16 - for another needed mod on the bottom fuel return line attachment. Easy to do while you are building the tank. I prefer the earlier Bender version because it requires no more rivets in the tank.
 
I just completed and tested the Cowl Duct mod for the coolant radiator, which was pioneered by John Bender. Very satisfied, if you want good heat in what appears to be about any oat, install this mod.
 
I just completed and tested the Cowl Duct mod for the coolant radiator, which was pioneered by John Bender. Very satisfied, if you want good heat in what appears to be about any oat, install this mod.

Dave nice job, pictures of his handy work he sent me last week. John good mod for those of us in the cooler areas of the country.
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Dave - I believe my order will be done in a week? LOL
 
All minor stuff at Cond. Insp., but here they are:
1.cut back rear floor inspection panel where it lies under tank. It was rubbing on the bottom of the tank in one area and I simply ground an arc in the edge and polished it to eliminate the contact point. The rubbing was very minor, (at this point) but I noticed it as saw smoking residue on plate with a matching loc. on tank bottom.
2. I attached a brkt. with a 1"x2" magnet block to the rear canopy frame to keep the canopy handle from falling into the closed position when lowering the canopy in the hangar.
3. Took the nuts off the tank fill pipe at skin junction and installed nutplates to eliminate hassle in remove/replace chores.
4. Enlarged opening at rear of flap control arm plate as well as trimming edges on sides of plate to allow ease of rem/install during inspection process.
5. Added 1/4 id vynil tubing to brake lines where they pass thru fuse from gear legs to provide evidence of any skin contact/rubbing should it occur.
Dick Seiders 120093
 
Spurred on by Tony's picture (post #182), we decided to do something similar.

We used 5/16" OD ali tube, filed down the heads of some #6 screws and bonded them inside the tubes. (Wide angle lens makes them look not quite as straight as they actually are! ;) )

1/2" heat shrink just went over the assembled handles. Perhaps could have put the heatshrink on (unshrunk) prior to bending but not sure how that would have worked.

Handles are held in place with #6 Nyloc nuts behind the panel and sit on a nylon washer between the handle and panel.

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These aren't Death Grip 2000 grips but should prove excellent in steadying the digits when twiddling knobs and pressing buttons in turbulence.
 
Battery tray

Had a visit from my tech counsellor today. While looking around the engine, he noted that the battery wasn't clamped down as tightly as he would have liked, even though the tube spacers under the clamp had been cut to the correct length as per the plans. He was right. It was possible to wriggle the battery slightly although it was reasonably secure.

Then he noticed the four plastic rails that the battery sits on, and he didn't think that was such a good idea, as with vibration these could potentially slide out from under the battery, and as they are sitting on the sharp edge of the channel flanges, they could also wear over time. In fact, I was able to slide a couple of them out fairly easily. He suggested I should do something about it, so I made a battery tray out of some 0.025 sheet, and adjusted the tube spacers under the clamp to make sure that battery was held firmly. The tray simply sits on top of the channels but it's not going anywhere, and everything is tight. There's nothing special about the holes in the tray. They are a mix of lightening holes and some rivet holes that I didn't use (it's a prototype, so I guess that's acceptable). It's not that clear in the photos, but the tray is a snug fit under the battery, and is 6 1/2" long.

I'm not suggesting that there is anything wrong with the plastic rails if everything is tight, but maybe it's something to think about. Anyway, this is what I did.

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I just finished my first annual and made two useful mods:

My plane is set up for day VFR so I rewired the electric fuel pump to take power from the Nav light circuit. That makes use of a previously inop switch and allows me to shutoff the fuel pump.

I wired the unused cockpit light wires to a 14V socket that I installed on the bracket holding the ELT antenna. I rewired the power side to the former fuel pump supply so the circuit now powers the AV fans and this socket. This allows me to put my XGPS170 ADSB/GPS receiver on the top of the fuel tank and power it from the socket.
 
Modifications

Just sharing modifications not included in Vans plans-

1. Extra large glove box, with ipad holder in glove box door
2. Additional ipad stand on central channel under dash.
3. Easily removed electrical sub panel (all switches and circuit breakers )separating electrical wiring from avionics wiring.
4. 3 x head set hooks.
5. 2 x extra 12v outlets.
6. 2 x i phone holders
7. Catch to secure canopy open 5cm while taxiing in heat.
8. Removable 20 litre bladder which sits on top of fuel tank and gravity feeds into main tank as fuel is burned off. It is mil spec?ed, and can be used to transport mogas from town. Gives total 100 l of fuel, @ 20 lph.
9.Anderson plug with heavy gauge wiring direct to battery, to jump start, or trickle charge without removing cowls.
 
Ditto. Photos would be good Roger. Also wondering why you want 3 headset hooks for two headsets?
 
My version of a canopy lock

I implemented a canopy lock using one of the canopy alignment tabs which insert into the UHMW-lined slot in the back of the canopy deck:

I fabricated an elongated tab with a notch cut into the lower portion, removed some of the lower portion of the UHMW guide block (to provide clearance for the lock, and used a 7/8" Cam lock (high-quality type bought off eBay), bending the included locking bar backward as shown in the photo.
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I drilled an appropriately-placed 3/4" hole in the side of the fuselage, but added a .062" backing plate with a double-D hole as a backing plate:

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The results (from the outside): All told, it was a bit of a tight fit, but I avoided cutting any added slots in the canopy deck.

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