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Insulating the continuous duty solenoid from the firewall?

R

riobison

Well Known Member
In changing out the continuous duty relay or solenoid, I found that when I took it off the firewall that it was on a thin bed of silicone insulating it from grounding to the air frame.

So, I'm wondering of this is an accepted and recommended practice? Or should I remove the silicone before installing the new master solenoid?

Thanks

Tim
 
Insulation or Sealant

riobison said:
In changing out the continuous duty relay or solenoid, I found that when I took it off the firewall that it was on a thin bed of silicone insulating it from grounding to the air frame.

So, I'm wondering of this is an accepted and recommended practice? Or should I remove the silicone before installing the new master solenoid?

Thanks

Tim
Click to expand...

Are you sure the silicone was meant to be an insulator instead of just a firewall sealant? If the solenoid was mounted to the metal airframe with metal fasteners then the silicone isn't providing electrical insulation anyway.

Skylor
 
I would think fire penitration or maybe vibration too. Isn't the master (cont. duty) internally grounded and the starter (intermitent) solinoid the only one firewall grounded?
 
The master relay typically used in RV's uses the master switch to switch the activation ground for the relay coil. No ground connection of the relay body is required.
 
Cole Hersee 24106 Solenoid not marked BAT

Bought a Cole Hersee 24106 relay and installed it. Visually it is identical to the Vans one that I removed. Except there were no markings designating BAT on it and no instructions in the box. So I oriented it identically to the one removed. So now it's not working. As well I'm waiting on the diode from vans so there is no diode in place.

Now there is no power to the small pin but a full 12.6 volts on the stud coming into the relay.

Is it possible that this needs to be turned so it is oriented 180 deg from the original and that the battery attached to the other big stud to give me power to the small stud?

Thanks

Tim
 
riobison said:
Bought a Cole Hersee 24106 relay and installed it. Visually it is identical to the Vans one that I removed. Except there were no markings designating BAT on it and no instructions in the box. So I oriented it identically to the one removed. So now it's not working. As well I'm waiting on the diode from vans so there is no diode in place.

Now there is no power to the small pin but a full 12.6 volts on the stud coming into the relay.

Is it possible that this needs to be turned so it is oriented 180 deg from the original and that the battery attached to the other big stud to give me power to the small stud?

Thanks

Tim
Click to expand...

Don't think so. The data sheet is here =

http://www.littelfuse.com/~/media/c...elays/littelfuse-solenoid-24xxx-2d-prints.pdf

The 24106 has one end of the coil grounded and the "little" pin must be connected to +12v to activate. This is schematic S1 on page 2 of the link above.

The usual aircraft solenoid will be a S2 or S3 configuration and have one of the big pins marked BATT.

All of the solenoids look the same but are not.

This SkyTec page shows the usual aircraft variations -

http://www.skytecair.com/images/Ins/80001.pdf

You want the middle picture....:)


The car place may have what you want as a 24115
 
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needing more parts so will order the relays and other parts from Vans. Their prices are as good as its going to get and at this point in time another few days is not going to make a difference.
 
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