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RV-7A JCarne

Looking good

Hey Jereme.

That must feel awesome to have on gear and all ready to roll around :)

Keep it up!
 
Jereme, I saw some of these new front ends ready for shipment a week or so ago at Vans. I was sure I saw your name on one of them! I wasn't sure so I didn't let the cat out of the bag.

That thing looks sick!
Must be one of the first RV's with one installed.

Great times!
 
Hey Jereme.

That must feel awesome to have on gear and all ready to roll around :)

Keep it up!

You bet! Although now I have to stand on a bucket to finish my wiring. lol A good leg workout never hurt anyone though. :D

Jereme, I saw some of these new front ends ready for shipment a week or so ago at Vans. I was sure I saw your name on one of them! I wasn't sure so I didn't let the cat out of the bag.

That thing looks sick!
Must be one of the first RV's with one installed.

Great times!

Haha that's awesome Kent. I'm sure there are a few that beat me to it but I think Dreed is the only one I know of right now. I was really surprised how easily it went on. The weldments were all nicely done and the powder coat even seemed a bit better in the sense that it wasn't inside holes very much that prevented bolts from sliding nicely in. Now I just got to finish boxing up the old one to send back.
 
Wing Incidence

Hi Jereme,

It is good to see your project progressing, it must be very satisfying for you.

A comment - when you come to install your wings and set the angle of incidence you will need to ensure the top longerons are perfectly level both longitudinally and from side to side. That is the reason I left my fuselage in the build stand as I knew I had the right levels with no movement after I installed the wings. I only put the fuselage on its landing gear after I had set the angle of incidence and drilled all the holes required, plus removed the wings again to install all the anchor nuts.

With your project now on its landing gear the longerons will definitely not be level longitudinally. Plus when you install the wings the weight of the wings will deform the tyres further. Therefore you will need to compensate by adjusting how the fuselage is sitting to ensure the longerons are level in both axis as per the instructions.

Keep up the good building and I will look forward to future posts.

Cheers,
 
Hi Jereme,

It is good to see your project progressing, it must be very satisfying for you.

A comment - when you come to install your wings and set the angle of incidence you will need to ensure the top longerons are perfectly level both longitudinally and from side to side. That is the reason I left my fuselage in the build stand as I knew I had the right levels with no movement after I installed the wings. I only put the fuselage on its landing gear after I had set the angle of incidence and drilled all the holes required, plus removed the wings again to install all the anchor nuts.

With your project now on its landing gear the longerons will definitely not be level longitudinally. Plus when you install the wings the weight of the wings will deform the tyres further. Therefore you will need to compensate by adjusting how the fuselage is sitting to ensure the longerons are level in both axis as per the instructions.

Keep up the good building and I will look forward to future posts.

Cheers,

Thanks for the great comment Gordon. I did have it all leveled before it went on the gear (for other steps during the build) but with building in a one car garage and no way to put the wings on I figured I would just re-level it when I get it to the airport. Some day I will be able to build in a bigger space. haha
 
Looks great Jereme! Sounds like yours may have been a little easier than mine, but I am super happy to have made the switch. Nothing against the old design, but this seems much better.

I think the only reason I was slightly earlier was being so close to the mothership.

Cheers!

dan
 
Looks great Jereme! Sounds like yours may have been a little easier than mine, but I am super happy to have made the switch. Nothing against the old design, but this seems much better.

I think the only reason I was slightly earlier was being so close to the mothership.

Cheers!

dan

Haha that and your much closer to flying too! lol
 
Yep, Kent hit it on the head. We expose them areas so the mount isn't changed at all even after adding the fire protection.

Jereme: For the firewall-mounted items other than the engine mount, are you mounting them on top of the fiberfrax-titanium sandwich, and if so,

1. Are you worried about the fasteners loosening up without a direct fit against the firewall metal?

2. Did you find you needed longer bolts to accomodate the extra space the fiberfrax takes up?

3. Any concerns about electrical grounds? Is your firewall ground directly against the firewall?

I was planning on only applying the fiberfrax to the areas of the firewall that don't have stuff on it.
 
Jereme: For the firewall-mounted items other than the engine mount, are you mounting them on top of the fiberfrax-titanium sandwich, and if so, yep it is all mounted on top of the fiberfrax and titanium, this method helps to secure the titanium to your firewall as well.

1. Are you worried about the fasteners loosening up without a direct fit against the firewall metal?

No I'm not worried about it, the fibrax compresses quite well and is only 1/8" thick. The bolts are also torqued to their normal spec. I also put torque seal inside where I can inspect the bolts.

2. Did you find you needed longer bolts to accomodate the extra space the fiberfrax takes up?

Yes there were often times where I needed longer bolts but just barely. I probably would have been fine with the Van's specced bolts but I have found they sometimes spec on the small side with hardly any thread showing.

3. Any concerns about electrical grounds? Is your firewall ground directly against the firewall?

I am using a 48 tab forest of tabs ground block found here. This bolts through the firewall sandwich of stuff and connects it all as one ground. The titanium is also electrically grounded via the myriad of bolts and rivets holding it on too.

I was planning on only applying the fiberfrax to the areas of the firewall that don't have stuff on it.

I'm sure this would probably be enough surface area protection that you would get the protection benefit but then again I haven't tested it. DanH would be your guy to ask on that one.

All good questions Draker, check the red text above. Hope this helps.
 
After a bit of travel for work I am back to building. I have actually been doing things here and there but not much to show. I did however get a couple antennas installed.

You can see here the ADSB and XPNDR antennas installed in the aft fuselage. A little over two feet apart so they are good to go according to Dynon.

20191215_165209 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20191215_165945 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also got the ELT mount installed on the left side of the fuselage. Don't let this fool you, it was a really PAIN to install this! Barely enough room to drill and rivet the bottom flange of this bad boy. I installed nutplates as accurately as I could for the ELT. Time will tell if it bolts right in. :D I wonder why Van's hasn't updated this mount for the ELT most people actually use these days...

20191215_165153 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
That ELT mount is a total pain in the rear! I barely got the blind rivets in the bottom even with a "wedge" and a second twist of the rivet tool and a lot o cussing!

How did you fall on the placement of your antennae?
 
That ELT mount is a total pain in the rear! I barely got the blind rivets in the bottom even with a "wedge" and a second twist of the rivet tool and a lot o cussing!

How did you fall on the placement of your antennae?

Ya I hear ya, I had the same problems.

As far as antenna placement I basically followed the plan that Stein released awhile back. I also wanted my ADSB-472 and XPNDR in the aft fuselage. I'm not following their plan to the T but close enough. My GPS antennas I think will go on the glare shield and ELT on the top of the aft fuse.
 
Ya I hear ya, I had the same problems.

As far as antenna placement I basically followed the plan that Stein released awhile back. I also wanted my ADSB-472 and XPNDR in the aft fuselage. I'm not following their plan to the T but close enough. My GPS antennas I think will go on the glare shield and ELT on the top of the aft fuse.

Hey Jereme! How thick was your doubler on those antennae?

Kent
 
Ever have those tasks while building that you keep putting off because you know it's going to suck? Well for me it was tidying things up in the center tunnel. I decided to go ahead and get it done. With some awkward poses and lots of time laying on my stomach here it is. Came out pretty good. Still need to finish up the fuel pump connection and put some anti-chafe on the fuel lines.

As always let me know if you see anything concerning.

P.S. I am also planning on puting some 1/4" thick foam strips under and above everything as well before the cover goes on.

20191221_164831 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20191221_164816 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
time to grip and rip!

I finally have some grips in the ole bird! The installation of the Tolsten grips was easy peezy. I did have to take off about 1.5 inches from the stock length of the sticks which I really didn't want to do. I wanted to keep the sticks as long as possible but there was interference with the controls. Sounds like a lot of people have this same problem and 1.5 inches is very common. Now the wiring of the grips commences, ok I really just have to connect the wires. lol

20191228_140743 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr


Now, I have never been really happy with how my sticks moved. It was absolutely friction-less in the roll axis but I always felt the pitch was too tight. I decided to do a little bit of research and bounce some ideas off of wirejock as well. Unfortunately I needed to get a couple of them bolts out that were so beautifully cottered and get to the bottom of this.

In a nutshell ANY amount of side force on the control column bearings will result in friction. You can feel it very easily if you grab the bearing with your fingers and try and turn it. Bottom line your washers/spacers need to be spot on. Here in lies my problem and my eventual solution...

With the pilot side bolted I focused my efforts on the passenger side. The instructions tell you to play with washer combinations between the weldment and mount/bearing. See pic below

Capture2 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I suppose a guy could sit there and keep trying different washer combinations but it wasn't working for me so I decided to get a little more precise. I put AN960 washers in but left a little bit of a gap instead of trying to force another one in. Then I put a feeler gauge in the gap to see what size I truly needed. In my case I needed to fill a gap of 0.056" (yes I could have put another 960L in there but my test shim would not have been of convenient thickness) and on the other side 0.016". I fabricated a couple of test pieces out of aluminum just to check my theory.

20191229_124124 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Sure enough, when you bolt that puppy down there is absolutely no increase in friction. She moves on air now!

Now, how to make this a little more permanent? I did some searching online for shim stock, etc. etc. It just wasn't coming up with anything. Then the light bulb. Hey, I bet I could make little washers out of my feeler gauges that only cost 6 bucks on amazon. It was almost like them things were made for this, when you take em apart they are just barely bigger than an AN960 washer and even had a 3/16" hole already!!! :D

20191229_134514 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I cut them on my shear and bolted all the spacers down between some AN960s to hold it all together.

20191229_134706 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Then I ground the edges down and smoothed it out. Same diameter as a 960 now.

20191229_135011 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Here are the finished washers after a bit of deburring.

20191229_135314 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Finally, bolt it all in and it's good to go! It is amazing how much smoother it moves now. Seriously though, get this right and it pays off big. I hope this helps someone else someday.
 
I love this forum. I was having the same issue but my ?lightbulb? was busted. Thanks for the write up. It is funny that when someone else figures out a solution ,that it was so ? obvious?.
 
I love this forum. I was having the same issue but my ?lightbulb? was busted. Thanks for the write up. It is funny that when someone else figures out a solution ,that it was so ? obvious?.

No problem at all, I'm glad it could help someone!
 
Jereme,

Maybe you answered this in a different post but why are you using a different nut than what the plans call out for?
 
Jereme,

Maybe you answered this in a different post but why are you using a different nut than what the plans call out for?

Bill, the only reason is that they give me the warm and fuzzies. I would be ok with an AN365 but I like the added safety of these. There are a few of them bolts that if they come loose it would not end well, I feel the added safety was worth it.
 
I did have to take off about 1.5 inches from the stock length of the sticks which I really didn't want to do. I wanted to keep the sticks as long as possible but there was interference with the controls.

If the -7 stick length is similar to the -6 then I'll bet you won't miss it. I cut my stick off for panel clearance and even then, RV controls are so light and responsive I fly most of the time with my hand on my knee -- so, below where the grip would be if I had one. Maybe if you're into serious aero (and maybe not even then, but I couldn't say for sure) the extra leverage isn't needed and would get in the way more than not.

My opinion, others may differ!
 
If the -7 stick length is similar to the -6 then I'll bet you won't miss it. I cut my stick off for panel clearance and even then, RV controls are so light and responsive I fly most of the time with my hand on my knee -- so, below where the grip would be if I had one. Maybe if you're into serious aero (and maybe not even then, but I couldn't say for sure) the extra leverage isn't needed and would get in the way more than not.

My opinion, others may differ!

Randall that is good to hear! Glad I won't be regretting it.
 
It's been cold in the garage lately but no excuse not to get out there!

Decided to finish up the FlyLEDs kit. Soldering these things together is probably the funnest part of the build to date. Very well thought out kits and I highly recommend.

The classic inside view. Those heat sinks mean business!

20200101_105435 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I decided to wire up a taxi light which is why the outboard light lens looks different.

20200101_105442 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Oh daaang, the lens even fits still. Now I just need to learn to dust off the part before taking a picture of it. haha

20200101_110007 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
Just back into Beast mode, I see!

Thanks for ALL the help on the wiring I am trying to figure out, still knee-deep but working as diligently as I can.

Here is to a great new year of building and flying!
 
That looks great! I ordered the FlyLeds kit for my 10 several months ago, which was way earlier than I needed it. I've been itching to solder it together ever since so that I could see them light up but I've been holding off since the instructions say to trim the boards to fit the wing tips first. I'm not even close to doing that yet so I'm going to have to wait a while longer.
 
Just back into Beast mode, I see!

Thanks for ALL the help on the wiring I am trying to figure out, still knee-deep but working as diligently as I can.

Here is to a great new year of building and flying!

Haha yep just in time for going back to teaching.

No problem man, keep textin away!

That looks great! I ordered the FlyLeds kit for my 10 several months ago, which was way earlier than I needed it. I've been itching to solder it together ever since so that I could see them light up but I've been holding off since the instructions say to trim the boards to fit the wing tips first. I'm not even close to doing that yet so I'm going to have to wait a while longer.

I found that you can also trim them a bit after soldering. I had to do this to one of my boards. Trimming them isn't a big deal, just bust them tips out and go to town. Then have fun soldering!
 
Why wait?

That looks great! I ordered the FlyLeds kit for my 10 several months ago, which was way earlier than I needed it. I've been itching to solder it together ever since so that I could see them light up but I've been holding off since the instructions say to trim the boards to fit the wing tips first. I'm not even close to doing that yet so I'm going to have to wait a while longer.
I picked my lights up from osh 2019. I put them together last week. There is a thermal adhesive used for the landing lights The tube in my kit was getting hard, but there was still plenty left to do all I needed.
Based on this adhesive, I wouldn't wait too long to assembly the lights.
 
Are we getting close to an update?

Thanks for dropping in birddog! I am just in a bit of wait mode right now as I need to order some things and for my wife's business to not be shut down due to COVID. I am getting quite close to hanging the engine. :) It's also just a tad too cold still to do the cowling work which really needs to come next after I get it hung. I'm still here and itching to get back into the garage!

I picked my lights up from osh 2019. I put them together last week. There is a thermal adhesive used for the landing lights The tube in my kit was getting hard, but there was still plenty left to do all I needed.
Based on this adhesive, I wouldn't wait too long to assembly the lights.

Good point John, it is great fun too!
 
It sure has been awhile! The wife's business was one that was shut down for over a month so there was no buying airplane parts for a little while. Now that she is back to work and I got my typical spring time itch back in gear it is time to finish this puppy! (Seriously though, I don't know why my motivation to work is so low in February...)

When my Spruce order finally arrived I found a bit of humor on my doorstep. It is still funny to me that batteries designed for use in an aircraft cannot in fact be transported by aircraft. haha

20200507_134435 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

First on the agenda was make a list of everything I need to do before riveting on the forward top skin so that I can finish the canopy in it's entirety. Unfortunately I don't think I am going to be able to test all of my avionics before then because I won't have the money within the next few months for the EFIS and transponder. Also, I don't have a heated garage and therefore I need to finish the windscreen this summer. Luckily I'm pretty anal about double and triple checking my wiring when installing and I also have continuity tested quite a bit of it too.

First item crossed of the list was installing the Dynon autopilot panel. For those that haven't done this yet don't wire it like I did. I have a plan for undoing those connectors if I ever have to replace that thing in the future but daaaaang it's not going to be fun. On the next airplane I am going to focus more on wiring/avionics maintainability.

20200508_193743 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20200508_192933 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Next up was the ARINC-429 module. Fun fact, there is a ground wire on pin 20 that is not shown on the interconnects to various certified GPS units. I asked the guys on the Dynon forum with one saying he has never used the ground on multiple builds and has never had a problem. I went ahead and installed it anyways per recommendation of others as well as avoiding future bloody hands if I ever had to get into that connector from underneath; no thanks!

20200511_153744 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The Dynon backup battery was up next. This will be a nice location as I plan on using Van's new forward top skin access panels.

20200511_153735 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

One thing I have been putting off for some time now is installing the G5 connector. I also secured it as I won't have the G5 until I decide to buy it and the certified GPS (couple of years out on that most likely). I will just be using the G5 as a standalone unit for backup flight instruments so it looks like all I needed was power and ground as far as wiring was concerned.

20200511_160359 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Finally, I was on to the ELT. Installing the ELT wasn't something I was looking forward to mainly because of the goofy solder connector it uses but it was a non issue. Installing the ELT has actually been a bit of fun! It also means I finished the last pain the butt antenna in the aft fuselage! TIP: Apparently $565 doesn't buy you any mounting hardware or two goofy batteries that are needed in the panel module and buzzer so plan on having to buy em! I found the batteries at Ace but they were about 10 bucks a piece.

20200511_153752 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20200511_153805 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Can you spot the mistake in this picture?

20200514_163419 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

How about now that it's fixed?

20200514_165329 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Yep I had to pull the dang rudder cable (that barely fits through the snap bushings!) and move it behind the mounting plate I installed a few months back.
 
I also redid the connectors for the ADSB module and transponder as the wires were not all the same length and were not laying nicely. That's about when I took this pic of the newly installed ELT antenna.

20200514_162635 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Lots more in the months to come, glad to be back to building!!!
 
Holy ****! You're done! What the heck, I think this is unfair for some reason LOL!
Good that you will be done so you can travel to Portland and help me wire up my plane as you are obviously just showing off all your skills!

Machine!

PS I did not type four * haha
 
Holy ****! You're done! What the heck, I think this is unfair for some reason LOL!
Good that you will be done so you can travel to Portland and help me wire up my plane as you are obviously just showing off all your skills!

Machine!

PS I did not type four * haha

Haha thanks man. Just trying to keep you motivated! :)
 
The work continues! Let me tell you what, this front tunnel cover was no fun! Okay... it was fun, just not the fun I wanted to be working on. As you can see I had to notch it pretty good to get it to slide over the fuel line. On the front left where the 90 degree bend is I was getting too much interference with the brake lines/ wire runs. So I decided the best course of action was to notch it a bit and put a cover plate on there. It turned out great. I was even able to use the piece I cut for the fuel line clearance so no painting needed to be done! :) Not visible but I also had to notch the upper right for the heater vent cable.

20200517_170320 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

After much debating and no real good options, this is where I decided to put the cabin heat control. (still needs labeled) Hooking this bad boy up to the vent was a real pain as I was only a one man crew when I really needed a second outside in front of the firewall pushing the bolts in. In the end I'm quite happy with it.

I put it way on the right of the panel for a couple of reasons:
A) I had no room on the left
B) I doubt I will use it too crazy often
C-Z) Let's be real, the wife will be the one in control of that one :D

20200517_171725 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also figured out where the Alt. air control is going to reside. After searching the forums I really liked this idea that someone posted. It is still very accessible/visible to the pilot but also out of the way and taking up no panel space. I fabricated the bracket and put it on with two LP4-3 rivets, plenty strong for a rarely if ever used cable that requires very little force.

20200517_171717 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
Jereme, you might want to think about your location of that ELT alarm as it has a battery to be replaced and that looks like a hard spot to reach!
 
Jereme, you might want to think about your location of that ELT alarm as it has a battery to be replaced and that looks like a hard spot to reach!

Yep I thought that too and was planning a different location but Van's just came out with some slick access covers that go right above that in the forward top skin. Sweet access now!
 
Onward we go!

First up, manifold pressure sensor, decided to put it right there for easy access and close proximity to the number 3 cylinder.

20200518_112941 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Well looky there, I finally managed to get the firewall seams taped.

20200518_112950 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The new brake lines from Aircraft Specialty arrived so on they went. These lines are very nice!

20200518_150353 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Also on the after work agenda was to create a homebrew brake fluid filling device. I'm happy with it, cost around 30 bucks is all. Now I just got to wait for Van's to send me some Royco 782.

20200518_160232 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Sure am getting close to hanging the engine!
 
Well...we talked on the phone about this exorbitant pace you are on so no need to rehash how unfair it is that you work so fast...:):D
 
Well...we talked on the phone about this exorbitant pace you are on so no need to rehash how unfair it is that you work so fast...:):D

Bahaha would it make it worse if I said I felt I was going slow right now because I'm waiting on orders from Stein and Van's? :D
 
Dear Van,

I am terribly sorry for the things I said about you while I was trying to get the washers between this elevator pushrod and the control column. It was nothing personal.
:)



Seriously though, this was without question the most difficult bolt to date to get in. More specifically the washers. My washer wrench was failing me big time today!

Every one of those washers laying down there was a failed attempt. (there are more you can't see too)

20200520_154904 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Once success was had I had to cotter that puppy. Believe it or not that was the easy part! Why cotter you ask, because I'm using these. They give me the warm and fuzzies.

20200520_160501 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Also did the back.

20200520_161500 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also appear to have got lucky with the clearance on the rear spar attach bulkhead. A lot of people have interference with the pushrod and have to trim it a bit. I have some clearance at the low point on the neighborhood of 1/32-1/16". There is no rubbing when I moving the stick but I will keep an eye on it to see if any vibration affects it.
 
Nylock castellated nuts

Just did the same myself. Fun job. Makes me feel safer on flight control connections
 
Rod end washers

A while back I read about a technique to make installing those washers easy.

Included making a short "rod" about .020" shorter than the rod end plus washer stack. Make it out of a piece of drill rod or bolt shank.

Put the short rod through the rod end, place a washer on each side, then slip the stack between the flanges. Line up the short rod with the flange holes.

Now push the rod out with the bolt that will be used to fasten the rod end. Add nut, torque, walk away.

Seriously, installing those push rods takes one try and is faster than reading this tip.

Cheers
 
Just did the same myself. Fun job. Makes me feel safer on flight control connections

I agree!

I remember those with the 7a rebuild. Major PIA!

Glad I'm not the only one.

A while back I read about a technique to make installing those washers easy.

Included making a short "rod" about .020" shorter than the rod end plus washer stack. Make it out of a piece of drill rod or bolt shank.

Put the short rod through the rod end, place a washer on each side, then slip the stack between the flanges. Line up the short rod with the flange holes.

Now push the rod out with the bolt that will be used to fasten the rod end. Add nut, torque, walk away.

Seriously, installing those push rods takes one try and is faster than reading this tip.

Cheers

Now you tell me! hahaha I love that idea. If I ever have to take this apart again I will definitely use your tip!
 
Main focus, try and get things ready for engine hanging and cowl work. I want to get the top skin riveted on soon so I had some things to finish there.

First, bleed the brakes. My fancy home made contraption worked pretty darn good on this front. I spent quite a bit of time chasing air bubbles but eventually got them out. No issues. I also made this little catch bucket which was a good idea.

20200526_173204 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Next up access panels. These took some time for sure. Amazing how difficult it is to get a nice gap between the access panel and the hole in the skin.

20200527_201527 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20200528_115930 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

I also needed to cleco the top skin on the fuse in order to mark the windscreen line so I could paint this bad boy. I used 1" tape to also mask off an area where the Sika will bond to the skin.

20200528_133137 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Primes and painted.

20200528_162811 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Big day for the engine has arrived! After moving the engine to the garage I needed to get the SD8 backup alternator on. Here you can also see the oil pressure fitting that needed installed.

20200529_095852 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

As you can see I really needed to butcher the 7/16" wrench I had in order to get it to index just one measly flat. This nut sucked to get on!

20200529_095349 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Next up engine hanging! :D
 
Here goes nothing! Seriously though, I did this solo and it was no big deal. Way worse things to tackle during the build!

20200529_095858 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Mounts ready with open arms. Surprisingly they stayed in the same position the whole time. Obviously the bolts had to pull out a bit.

20200529_101559 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Lifting her into place. I started with the top right bolt and then went to the top left. These two went in easy peasy.

20200529_112059 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The cotter pins on the other hand...

20200529_120049 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Another top mount close up for you.

20200529_123805 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Next I attempted the bottom right bolt but it wasn't having it. I switched to the bottom left bolt and it went in no problem. After torquing that one down the bottom right was good to go. Here is a bottom mount close up for you.

20200529_123828 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

After getting all those lovely cotter pins in it was time for the full camera shot. My dog even found a new laying spot.

20200529_124719 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

20200529_124730 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

Naturally I couldn't stop there. I decided to see if the control cables I had were the correct length. They just seemed a bit short to me initially. Here are the mixture weldments bolted up. Cable temporarily installed to see if the length was good. It looks all good to go.

20200529_153350 by Jereme Carne, on Flickr

The same was the case for the throttle cable but I may need to attach the bracket differently than what Van's intended. Searching the forums though this seems par for the course but I won't know for sure until the exhaust and fuel servo are installed.

I am deeming this big day a success! :D
 
Just beautiful Jereme.
This build thread has been an inspiration to me and I am sure to many others.

Congratulations on the progress!
 
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