I recently did the RV12 landing gear service bulletin and used an amazing tool from Aircraft Tool Supply. It's called a Blind Rivet Removal Tool, although it also works with solid rivets. Once you have used a pin punch to remove the pop's mandrel, it takes 5 seconds(no fooling) to drill the rivet out perfectly without enlarging the hole. It's a $76 tool.
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Removing Pop Rivets Easily
- Thread starter keny
- Start date
engineerofsorts
Well Known Member
Rivet removal tool
I use a similar rivet removal tool, but, for me it seems the process, at least with the LP-4 rivets is even faster if you skip the part about driving the mandrels out--I just drill it with the mandrel in, and the whole works pops right out. The added advantage of this is that the magnetic mandrel is still embedded in the rest of the rivet, and I can use a magnet to search and rescue the rivet remains from the innards of the fuselage. If I were attempting to remove the tougher cherry max rivets, I would probably go through the full/proper process described in their literature.
I use a similar rivet removal tool, but, for me it seems the process, at least with the LP-4 rivets is even faster if you skip the part about driving the mandrels out--I just drill it with the mandrel in, and the whole works pops right out. The added advantage of this is that the magnetic mandrel is still embedded in the rest of the rivet, and I can use a magnet to search and rescue the rivet remains from the innards of the fuselage. If I were attempting to remove the tougher cherry max rivets, I would probably go through the full/proper process described in their literature.
I would recommend that others not use this technique.
The steel stem is much harder than the aluminum rivet material.
When it breaks off inside the rivet it has a very irregular shape to the end which can try and deflect the tip of the drill bit to one side as you drill through, and the soft aluminum rivet body provides very little resistance to it doing so.
Pop rivets are easier than that.....
Having done a million (seems that way), here is a simple method that works perfectly with no special tools but you have to try it to believe it....
Take a large drill 3/8 7/16 etc. and center it in the pop rivet. With just enough pressure to let the drill cut...slowly turn the drill (obviously need a good varialble speed drill). The drill will cut through the rivet in about 6 to 10 turns and just before it would actually contact the skin, the rivet head will break off clean leaving no marks at all. Generally the other end will just drop on throuh without the head holding it on.
No need to bang out the stems, no enlarged holes, and it's very fast once you learn the trick. As long as you go slow with the drill speed, there is no way to damange anything and it works almost 100% of the time. The only time this doesn't work is if the rivet is loose and spinning, then you need to get a small clamp on the back side to hold it still....
Hope this helps!
Having done a million (seems that way), here is a simple method that works perfectly with no special tools but you have to try it to believe it....
Take a large drill 3/8 7/16 etc. and center it in the pop rivet. With just enough pressure to let the drill cut...slowly turn the drill (obviously need a good varialble speed drill). The drill will cut through the rivet in about 6 to 10 turns and just before it would actually contact the skin, the rivet head will break off clean leaving no marks at all. Generally the other end will just drop on throuh without the head holding it on.
No need to bang out the stems, no enlarged holes, and it's very fast once you learn the trick. As long as you go slow with the drill speed, there is no way to damange anything and it works almost 100% of the time. The only time this doesn't work is if the rivet is loose and spinning, then you need to get a small clamp on the back side to hold it still....
Hope this helps!
MartySantic
Well Known Member
Scott....
Have you tried to drill the pop rivet (LP4-3) with a #31 drill bit. I found the original hole is not disturbed. No need to punch the mandrel.
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I use an 1/8 bit (even when I punch the mandrels out) which is very close to a 31.
As always, builders can use what every process they choose... after all the are manufacturer, quality control inspector. etc.
It is my experience that the short cut process works a lot of the time, but not every time.
Rivet removal
I had not tried the 1/16 punch on the mandrels as called out in the SB. It is really about the easiest of all the things I have tried. We are building another airplane with stainless steel mandrels. Works great on those too. It is slick, clean, and quick.
Richard
I had not tried the 1/16 punch on the mandrels as called out in the SB. It is really about the easiest of all the things I have tried. We are building another airplane with stainless steel mandrels. Works great on those too. It is slick, clean, and quick.
Richard
I have used the "clicker" to drive out bunches of 'em. The clicker is what we call the push-in automatic spring center punch. After removing the head, hit a couple clicks with the clicker. Often one will knock it out. If not, after three tries, get the drill again. The mandrel will be farther down and not make the bit wander into the material and elongate the hole. I would actually like to see one designed with a 1/16" pin punch end instead of center punch, but have been to lazy to make an adapter. I don't think I have ever damaged a part in any way with the clicker. You may have to support small tabs and such from the back, however.
Bob
Bob
rocketbob
Well Known Member
This one is junk (I have one). The other one they sell is MUCH more well made.
http://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?PRODUCT_ID=1341A
You're better off getting the 2nd one and get the serrated nose pieces seperately.
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JonJay
Well Known Member
Interesting Bob. I have the "better" one and it is holding up very well even abusing it as I do. I run it in my in a 90 deg. die grinder, probably a lot faster than the design intended, but it is still doing good. I do this as I am blowing and going and removing hundreds of rivets in a session (solid, not pop). The 90 deg. die grinder is also easier to get into places and hold stable, better than a drill I have found.
For those that break a bit; Every once in a while, I get going too fast and bad technique side loads the bit and I will break one off. The picture of the tool with the bits shows the correct drill bits, with the hex nut. The picture of the replacement bit is not correct, it shows the square nut. The square nut will not fit through the shaft. I am sure thier part number is correct. If you break a bit and get that wrong one, it is an easy fix by just knocking off the corners of the nut on your grinder.
Also, throw a little oil or boelube on the shaft and inside your drill guides if you have a lot of rivets to remove. It can get pretty hot.
