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Installing the Static System Rivets

MartySantic

MartySantic

Well Known Member
Would like to know the correct method to use when installing the rivets in the side skin. I have not done it yet and am worried there might not be enough meat inside to connect the 1/8" tubing.

The page of instructions tell you to set the rivets into the fuselage side skin and after setting the rivet the mandrel is driven out.

A post from Scott in November 08 indicates.....
"I believe the instructions say to slightly set the rivet, but not enough to break the mandrel. Tap out the mandrel to leave a hollow rivet. Push the static hose over the rivet end and seal it in place with a smear of proseal or RTV around the perimeter.
I could be wrong...but thats how I have done it about a dozen times and have never had a leak (in that location anyway )"

What is the best way to do this? Or does it not matter as there will be more than enough meat inside to connect the tubing? Opinions?
 
Static system rivets

Hi, I'm past this point and everything worked as stated. There was enough of the rivet sticking out of the side skin to slide the clear tube up on to. You can use RTV on it to make sure it stays on as per the directions. I did something a little different. I cut a small 3/16 length of the clear tubing and slide it up on a pair of needle nose plyers and then spread the plyers apart and slid this small piece over the top of the end of the clear tubing which will go on the rivet, then slide the whole thing onto the rivet. A simple test after you are done is to try to pull it back off. It wont come off unless you pull it fairly hard. Remember its a static line and not under pressure. Also on the T when you slide the nylon tubing on, first slide a peice of clear tubing on then slide the nylon over the top of it. Then try the pull test. Good Luck J
 
Jetguy said:
Hi, I'm past this point and everything worked as stated.
Click to expand...

I tried it both ways, partially pulling it did not work, the head spun in the hole. Pulled both until they snapped off. There was plenty of "meat" to attach the tubing. The mandrel in one came out with a tap. The other took some large raps. Had a bit of a time getting the nylon tubing over the clear 1/8" tubing on the T but finally got it. Thanks for the reply.
 
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RTV

The Sikkens (sp?) range has rtvs that are designed for use with
aluminum. They bond aluminum panels to reinforcement members on vehicles.

Sam
 
Static ports

The easiest way, and the way I have done it on numerous RVs, is to use ProSeal, if you have any around from previous real airplane build jobs. This is not a putdown, I'm building an RV-12 now also, but fly a -4. First, push the mandrel out of the rivet, now clean under your large rivet head, clean the fuselage skin then put a small dab of proseal under the head and on the skin. Tape over it leave it in place a day or two and remove the tape. The rivet has never been pulled and you have a lot of shank to install your 1/8 inch hose. After installing your 1/8 inch hose, just dab a little more proseal on the connection, and you'll never have to worry about it coming loose.

To minimize the cleanup, I put masking tape over the static hole first, but the large rivet in and cut around the circumference with an exacto knife. Now all your mess is on the tape with the rivet hole in it.
 
Where to buy aluminum friendly RTV

Can anyone suggest a source for the RTV sealant?
 
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Static port rivets

I'm installing the static air system now. I ordered RTV 3145 (Dow Corning) from Aircraft Spruce. I'm assuming it's safe for aluminum since Aircraft Spruce is selling it. Do any of you know if this is safe on aluminum?

Also, I pulled the rivets that are the static ports and could not drive one of the mandrels out. I used a block of wood behind the rivet and used the mandrel to try driving the broken bit left in the hole. The result was one screwed up static port. I had to drill it out and will get a replacement from VANS. The mandrel in the other static port was also not budging so I used a #40 bit and drilled it out. Is going to mess up the port (it may have a slightly bigger diameter)?

Thanks for your input.

Slane
 
I did this on mine.

Go to your local hobby shop and buy a piece of K&S brass tubing that the vinyl tubing will slip over. Cut a 1" piece of it, silver soder a washer on the end of the tubing. Use one of the pop rivets Van's use for the static vent. Stick the pop rivet in the side, hold the brass tubing (washer butted up to the inside of fuse), squeeze slowly. Push mandrel out to inside. You will not have to use any RTV to hold or seal. You will never have problems with tubing coming off. You can see these vents on ML Blueskunk website.

They work best off all.
 
static port mandrel removal

Slane said:
<snip>

Also, I pulled the rivets that are the static ports and could not drive one of the mandrels out. I used a block of wood behind the rivet and used the mandrel to try driving the broken bit left in the hole. The result was one screwed up static port. I had to drill it out and will get a replacement from VANS. The mandrel in the other static port was also not budging so I used a #40 bit and drilled it out. Is going to mess up the port (it may have a slightly bigger diameter)?

Thanks for your input.

Slane
Click to expand...

After pulling the rivets as per instructions, I also found that the mandrels would not budge. I was worried that tapping too hard would somehow damage the skin. Using a Dremel tool, I cut the very tip of the shop head off (maybe 1/64th inch). The mandrels pushed right out with no tapping.

Jerre
 
I had a blocked static line at the Tee where the two lines join. What a pain it was to get back in the fuse. Now I have put a removable panel in the skin with the static vent in it. just unscrew 4 screws and the whole lot comes out for maintenance. problem is I have forgotten exactly which pop rivet Vans specifies. Can anyone enlighten me.
 
Yen -

Not at the hangar at the moment but I believe it may be the same rivet that is used to vent the fuel tank in the latest RV-12 fuel tank mod ....which is a larger head rivet ... SD-42-BSLF. I believe it is a steel baffle rivet.

Should work fine I would think ... happy building.
 
Yen said:
Now I have put a removable panel in the skin with the static vent in it. just unscrew 4 screws and the whole lot comes out for maintenance.
Click to expand...

Not sure why you would have to do that, but if you are, keep in mind that if the panel is small and can influence air flow across the static port you could be changing calibration of all systems that use static air.
 
The panel I put in is flush with the outside skin, just a hair line gap all round, but I will double check that everything is working properly.
 
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