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RV14A vs RV7A Rehash

boearl

Well Known Member
Patron
I understand this subject has been been broached previously, but it's been a bit and folks have gained more experience and insight. Besides there's no such thing as a horse too dead to beat! :rolleyes:

The question is: Besides the obvious advantages of a large plane, what improvements in design, kit production, and building the kit does the RV14A have over the 7A? What are the disadvantages besides price and fuel burn?

Thanks in advance,
 
None other than what you mentioned. I would have preferred a sliding canopy but being tall limits choices. The 14 SB/QB being the newest offers many improvements to ease the builders work.
Size gives the owner more flexibility, but the aircraft will fly empty 90% of the time, so...
You do remember the RV-12 under your name , right?
So many toys, so little time.
 
Thanks. We're interested in the RV14A's improvements that ease the builder's work you speak of. We're excited with the RV12s progress.
 
Many parts that have to be fabricated extensively in the RV-7 are much more complete in the -14. For example, there's little risk of mis-drilling the area where tail components attach to the fuselage as in Vic Syracuse's "check those tails" thread - all these parts are pre-drilled and require final drilling/match drilling only, but match up perfectly and edge distance is rarely if ever an issue. Plans are very easy to follow (most of the time).

Holes match up perfectly almost 100% of the time, and skin holes and most holes in ribs are punched to full size. Skins can be dimpled without match drilling most of the time (exceptions are noted in the plans). In these examples, deburring is "as needed" and most of the punched skins require little if any deburring. Some purists will insist on deburring every hole but Synergy and Van's have tested this extensively and are satisfied that it's safe. I usually dimple skins with blue film in place - makes a nice clean dimple with no machining marks. (I learned this technique at Synergy - NOTE that any hole drilled before dimpling must have blue film removed).
 
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Thanks Turner. I'm minimally exposed to a RV12 build, and impressed with the completeness of the kit, build plans, and building process. I was wondering if lessons learned from the development of the 7A and 12 kits were incorporated in the 14A for the builder and the overall end product. Sounds like that s so.
 
I think Van's says to carefully check them , but most do not need to be deburred.

I agree with Ron - I check the skins before dimpling, occasionally do a bit of spot deburring, usually just a little scotchbrite or fine emery cloth - rarely do I need to use a deburring tool on the punched rivet holes. I always carefully finish the edges and other/larger holes and fully deburr anything I match/final drill. I usually find that ribs and other thinner substructure parts get 99% of the deburring they need when I prep for priming (scotchbrite), so I'll do this before dimpling and deburr "prn". I still use deburring tools/techniques on all the edges and lightening holes.

Please note that this applies ONLY to skins and parts that are pre-drilled to full size - per Scott applies only to RV12 and 14/14A. If the holes are undersized they need the full Monty - which is the whole point of this thread. I have found some parts in the 14 tail kit that are repurposed from other aircraft and need to be drilled / deburred per the usual process and some are deliberately done this way - the plans specify match/final drilling in these cases.
 
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I must say i that the first time I saw an RV 10 putting the wings on without having to be inside the fuselage, I was jealous. The 14 does the same and that alone to me would be reason enough to go with the 14. I also just saw a 14 being put together by a former 9 builder and he says it is a night and day difference between the amount of fiddling that needed to be done to make things fit properly. And I know fiddling:D
 
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