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Master cylinder drilling

amaris

Well Known Member
I've been staring at this too long and not sure if I'm setting this up correctly.

I used 3/4 angle on the bottoms to line up all the pedals. I wanted my pedals a bit forward from vertical so I clamped a .125" straight bar across the front of the pedals and then clamped that to all 4 pieces. (c-clamps holding that). It's exaggerated in this picture, but it's probably only 5 degrees. That raises the attachment point for the bottom of the main cylinder too low without the proper edge distance.

If I decrease the forward angle so I'm back within tolerances on the left pedal, the right pedal would be forward of the rudder weldment. A) is that correct? B) how do I get all to align since the 2 pedals are different angles?

Does anyone have any pictures showing this?

Thanks!



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I have the grove cylinders, but the geometry should be the same.
If you angle the pedal frame a little more forward the brake pedals can be tilted to reach the bolt hole on the cylinders.

I'll see if I can get a picture of mine tomorrow.
 
Unless you are going for max leg room, the pedal does not need to be tilted that far forward. The weldment can be rotated toward the pilot during cable installation to allow the top of the brake pedal to tilt forward and away from the rudder bar, and also create a curve for your foot to move in.
 
Thanks for the reply. After some fresh eyes, a little less forward tilt, they worked out great.
 
I think you could have compressed the cylinder a little. It does not use nearly all of the stroke. I'll have to revisit the internals to make sure that would not cause any issues.
 
I just completed this last night (break from x-mas activities), guess I got "lucky" as I match drilled the F-6117B without drilling through the master cylinders as the plans suggest (for some reason I could not figure out). Everything seems to line up fine, hopefully when mounted in the fuselage it will also as the longerons they are mounted to slope down.
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[/url]Untitled by Dave Hock, on Flickr[/IMG]
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[/url]Untitled by Dave Hock, on Flickr[/IMG]
 
Brake bolt

Some builders use a single long drilled bolt, washer, nut and cotter pin on each brake pedal. Helps the pedal move freely.
 
Been there done that

Some builders use a single long drilled bolt, washer, nut and cotter pin on each brake pedal. Helps the pedal move freely.

I did this, see my blog or my post on here. I think it worked out great.

I have extra rod if anybody needs some.
 
I think you could have compressed the cylinder a little. It does not use nearly all of the stroke. I'll have to revisit the internals to make sure that would not cause any issues.


The piston has to move all the way out to uncover the port to the reservoir.
 
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