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Crazy glue / canopy campatibility
- Thread starter DaveLS
- Start date
Kyle Boatright
Well Known Member
There is a long, successful history of using proseal on canopies.
Another solution is Lexel, which is an adhesive/sealant designed for acrylics and for sale at many hardware and big box stores.
I wouldn't get super glue near a canopy.
Another solution is Lexel, which is an adhesive/sealant designed for acrylics and for sale at many hardware and big box stores.
I wouldn't get super glue near a canopy.
rv7charlie
Well Known Member
And Sikaflex, used by a lot of us instead of screws/rivets. And for at least one or two of us, instead of fiberglass.
I got mine from Jamestown Distributors (marine supply).
Charlie
I got mine from Jamestown Distributors (marine supply).
Charlie
F1Boss
Well Known Member
I had the same question
So I asked the fellow who makes our canopies- Jeff at Airplane Plastics. He made up some samples, and actually found one brand that works. I’ll have to go to the shop to see which one he picked - memory isn’t working yet today. Duro brand comes to mind...
One thing I did pick up from his conversation was that ‘laminating’ resin is not what we want to be using against the plexi. He told me that it simply peels off easily - his experience with damaged parts coming in for replacements - the layups peel off easily unless the builder used West System, or something similar.
I used West System when I built my 1st RV around 1990 - it is still around (2000+hrs) and the canopy attach has not let go or cracked. I assure you, that was pure luck - I did not know I was using the Right Stuff.
His suggestion was to make the normal layup using wax on the plexi, then peel it off and reattach using the West system.
How did I come to find this out? I let another fellow fly my plane, and it came back with a corner of the windshield fairing loose. Apparently, my buddy used a bit more gusto when closing the canopy, and popped the fairing corner loose from the plexi. I used the prescribed brand of isocyanate and a insulin needle and fixed things, but if it happens again, it will be New Layup Time for me. Oh boy.
At least I’ll know how to do it properly...if I can remember the process...uhhhh..
Lock-tite is the stuff you cannot get anywhere near plexi.
So I asked the fellow who makes our canopies- Jeff at Airplane Plastics. He made up some samples, and actually found one brand that works. I’ll have to go to the shop to see which one he picked - memory isn’t working yet today. Duro brand comes to mind...
One thing I did pick up from his conversation was that ‘laminating’ resin is not what we want to be using against the plexi. He told me that it simply peels off easily - his experience with damaged parts coming in for replacements - the layups peel off easily unless the builder used West System, or something similar.
I used West System when I built my 1st RV around 1990 - it is still around (2000+hrs) and the canopy attach has not let go or cracked. I assure you, that was pure luck - I did not know I was using the Right Stuff.
His suggestion was to make the normal layup using wax on the plexi, then peel it off and reattach using the West system.
How did I come to find this out? I let another fellow fly my plane, and it came back with a corner of the windshield fairing loose. Apparently, my buddy used a bit more gusto when closing the canopy, and popped the fairing corner loose from the plexi. I used the prescribed brand of isocyanate and a insulin needle and fixed things, but if it happens again, it will be New Layup Time for me. Oh boy.
At least I’ll know how to do it properly...if I can remember the process...uhhhh..
Lock-tite is the stuff you cannot get anywhere near plexi.
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Isocyanates are the very bad for you stuff that is in a lot of paints now a days, so I think you probably mean cyanoacrylate. The compound technical name for most "super glues".
I personally would be very careful using any cyanoacrylate glues without doing a test first. I have heard bad stories. Lexel seems to always be a safe choice, as well as epoxy and tank sealant.
F1Boss
Well Known Member
You are right!
Yep - I meant to use the right chemical - cyanoacrylate. Jeff did the testing (6 different glue brands) and sent the test samples along with the extra pieces to re-check. Not all Crazy Glue is created the same!
I would think that the use of this glue would require certain characteristics, but it did the trick in re-attaching the windshield - so far!
Yep - I meant to use the right chemical - cyanoacrylate. Jeff did the testing (6 different glue brands) and sent the test samples along with the extra pieces to re-check. Not all Crazy Glue is created the same!
I would think that the use of this glue would require certain characteristics, but it did the trick in re-attaching the windshield - so far!
maniago
Well Known Member
When you refer to West epoxy as your fairing-to-metal atch method, is that the same 105/205 epoxy used as a fiberglass or carbon fiber binder?
