topcoat for panel over dry transfers

I have decided on dry transfers for my panel markings. My panel is painted with 2k acrylic urethane. Is there any consensus on what paint to top coat the dry transfers with? Type of paint? Matte or satin finish? I would prefer to go directly to the right type rather than buying 12 different rattle cans

Any assistance appreciated.

I didn't use anything. 12 years and no issues.
I never touch the markings, so there is really no need to topcoat them. Also, if you need to change a switch function or similar, you can work the old markings of with a toothpick or similar.

If you have a marking that is going to get touched or rubbed, then a light coat of Krylon matte will work. Don't hose it down or the lettering will dissolve from the solvents.


BTW, I just used customrubontransfers.com and they are good and inexpensive.

thank you!!! Would it be a bad idea to try to apply those after installing all the switches etc? Should I delay the installation of the panel until I have the transfers on?

Easiest sequence is paint, apply transfers, install switches. But, you do have to be careful after applying.

If you use surrounds (lines) around the switches, it will be very hard to apply with the switches installed. Here a couple examples of my sheets (used Visio)
Make your target lines, etc. a minimum of 1point, otherwise they can't print them reliably.



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Notice you make extras! Nest things in like a model decal sheet, but remember to not break up groups.
Tape the sheet section in place and apply the transfers with craft store burnishing tools (wood handle with various size metal ball ends, check the metal embossing section.)

Two-part matte clear. Shoot multiple coats to build thickness, then block sand wet with 800-1000 grit to remove the high spots over the labels, plus any flaws/dust/nibs. Shoot one more final coat. The labels are bulletproof when buried in clear.

DanH said:

Two-part matte clear. Shoot multiple coats to build thickness, then block sand wet with 800-1000 grit to remove the high spots over the labels, plus any flaws/dust/nibs. Shoot one more final coat. The labels are bulletproof when buried in clear.

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ya that`s when I will find the speling mistake

Thanks for the input. I think I have my way forward now. Fl-mike nice artwork.

DanH said:

Two-part matte clear. Shoot multiple coats to build thickness, then block sand wet with 800-1000 grit to remove the high spots over the labels, plus any flaws/dust/nibs. Shoot one more final coat. The labels are bulletproof when buried in clear.

Click to expand...

This is what I did as well, but over wet applied labels not dry. Also shot all coats at once, block sanded then buffed. Looks very nice.

DanH said:

Two-part matte clear. Shoot multiple coats to build thickness, then block sand wet with 800-1000 grit to remove the high spots over the labels, plus any flaws/dust/nibs. Shoot one more final coat. The labels are bulletproof when buried in clear.

Click to expand...

Same here.