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Best way to Lift up the tail wheel

Any good methods for lifting up the back wheel? You know, to change the oil or do inspections... I can lift mine up and then over onto my bench, but it's awkward, and I know I'll eventually bump the tail into something, pull a muscle or not be able to anymore.

Was thinking about some way to make it easy, quick, and safe. Possibly between an extended lever arm, or some fancy winching lift contraption.

Ideas?

AO
 
Tailmate!

We bought one about five years ago, and while the price seems a little high at $260 (or something like that), when you compare it to the costs of a thrown back, it is pretty cheap. There is nothing easy about lifting the tail of an RV because the rudder is in the way of doing a safe, clean lift.
 
That Tailmate rig is a great idea, but I checked the price and it lists for $350.

I use an engine hoist with a strong strap and hold the rudder out of the way as I pump it up. The engine hoist is not mine; however, I just store it in my hangar.

Other than that, I get someone to help me lift until I can get a "T" stand under it.

Don
 
Some info on the tailmates. Owner has had some health issues. I've been waiting for mine since March.
 
Come-Along

I used to lift my tail, but as I get older I realize this isn't such a good idea any more. This works well for me. Got the come-along at Lowe's for not much money and built the bench/caddy from scrap pieces of plywood.





 
lifting tail

I just use my floor jack. Quick, easy, no fuss. Lifts it about 18". I roll it under the tailwheel rod where it meets the fuselage and pump.
Jim RV-6
 
Lift

I have a Burro brand saw horse that I sawed most of the legs off so it sits about a foot off the ground. I put a thick piece of foam rubber on it. I position it next to the fuselage, lift the tail and slide it under the stinger. While the oil is draining, I service the tail wheel assembly.

It's not that heavy but if you've got any back issues you could use floor jack for ease of operation.
 
1) Harbor Freight winch
2) Home Depot wheels
3) fuselage jig wood


2u61cus.jpg
 
Cool tool, but what do you think about strapping the tailwheel into the jack cradle? The higher it goes, the lighter it gets, and it might not take much to dislodge it from the cradle.

Charlie
 
Nailed it!

1) Harbor Freight winch
2) Home Depot wheels
3) fuselage jig wood

(Fancy jig Image here)

PERFECT! This is EXACTLY what I was trying to come up with. Thanks for the visual!

I like to get the tail up and sit the wheel actually on my benchtop so I have good access underneath to polish, drain oil, and such. There is still plenty of weight on the tail! This makes it even better. I may mod it slightly to accommodate tailwheel removal/cleaning/lube as well. Will advise when I have a constructed hoist.

-AO
 
I have a bad back which as as strange as it sounds doesn't heal with age. Since Tailmate has gone awry, I decided to build a replacement whilst trying to minimise the amount of work...

Bought a MoJack EZ - Residential Riding Lawn Mower Lift as they call it, and had some welding done to it.
Christened it yesterday for a 50H inspection and this gadget works real good :)

img_8478-480.jpg
 
Sam's tail lift

Daniel, that looks really nice! I'd like a metal one, but don't currently have a welder. So, I recommend Sam's wooden tail lifter design - I just built one and it works great. Here's the details:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=157436

tailhoist-17-small.jpg


BTW, just build it *exactly* as Sam shows and it will work great. I tried to "improve" it, and every change had to be rolled back to Sam's design. Also, I built mine at home, and the airplane is in the hangar. That cost me a few round trips to the airport. At least the moving part should be built in the hangar to ensure the space for the tailwheel assembly and clearance from the rudder is adequate.
 
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Just build one of Sam's tail lifters - I just built one and it works great. Here's the details:

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=157436

tailhoist-17-small.jpg


BTW, just build it *exactly* as Sam shows and it will work great. I tried to "improve" it, and every change had to be rolled back to Sam's design. Also, I built mine at home, and the airplane is in the hangar. That cost me a few round trips to the airport. At least the moving part should be built in the hangar to ensure the space for the tailwheel assembly and clearance from the rudder is adequate.

What is the loose eye bolt used for that is sitting on the leg of the stand?
 
eye bolt

What is the loose eye bolt used for that is sitting on the leg of the stand?
Sam explains in another thread that this is safety lock on the mechanism when the tail is up. He has some holes strategically drilled at the right height.
 
Tailmate

If you prefer a metal tailmate, someone did post a drawing with measurements and angles, well done. If you can?t find it and would like it, shoot me a message. I believe I still have the drawing from when I built mine from it.
It does take a little time and effort but I found it to be a fun welding project and in the end it works great..
 
Tail jack

1) Harbor Freight winch
2) Home Depot wheels
3) fuselage jig wood

I like this idea but the Tinypic doesn?t show the picture
 
I have a bad back which as as strange as it sounds doesn't heal with age. Since Tailmate has gone awry, I decided to build a replacement whilst trying to minimise the amount of work...

Bought a MoJack EZ - Residential Riding Lawn Mower Lift as they call it, and had some welding done to it.
Christened it yesterday for a 50H inspection and this gadget works real good :)

img_8478-480.jpg


That?s a really nice set up. Had to be pretty pricey though. Looks like the MoJack is $300.00 then cost of the modifications!
 
What is the approximate weight of the tail?

If memory serves, my 7 was 73 lbs in flight attitude empty. It was 130 lbs with full fuel and about 30 lbs baggage in 3 pt attitude. Wondered why it was so heavy to lift...

I build the wooden lift using some 2x4s and plywood I had kicking around and bought the winch on sale at Princess Auto for $20. Works great!
 
I?ve had the ?tailmate? for 20 years, 5 RV taildraggers, and it has performed perfectly - and still is performing. I consider it a necessary tool. Money well spent.
 
Jetmart, have even less weight on my tail (...) 30kg = 66lbs, problem is also the :p rudder getting into the way... and my back :(

rv8ch, afraid of termites :)D), good reason I sold that Falco #2..., still kudos on Sam?s design!
And who the hell?s gonna go rental on a whatever Piper when you have an RV?

Ted RV8, yeah d..n pricey, but so is my body, and LIFE?s short...

Scott, agree. I?d have spent twice the $$$ asked for it, unfortunately not on the market anymore...
 
i just built a small table the right height, with a hole for the tail wheel to sit in. pic up the tail, push the table under it and set it down. 10 bucks worth of lumber if you have to buy it.

bob burns
RV-4 N82Rb
 
i just built a small table the right height, with a hole for the tail wheel to sit in. pic up the tail, push the table under it and set it down. 10 bucks worth of lumber if you have to buy it.

bob burns
RV-4 N82Rb

I have a tail stand about 3' tall made from a 4x4 with 1x6 legs that I used for over 15 years to prop up the tail of my RV-6. Just grab the tail spring and rest it on the tail stand.

Until I found it increasingly uncomfortable, and risky to my aging back, to grab the tail spring and raise the tail to level. That is when the tailwheel hoist made its appearance in my hangar. It is really nice to be able to get the plane in a level attitude without any lifting. :)

If a pilot is still in physical condition to yank on the tail spring, that is the quickest way to raise the tail. But for some of us the personal odometer has rolled over enough times to make that an undesirable option.
 
Someone on this forum was kind enough to send me plans for the RV-Jack. I made a few mods to the cradle, but it really works well.





 
I have a tail stand about 3' tall made from a 4x4 with 1x6 legs that I used for over 15 years to prop up the tail of my RV-6. Just grab the tail spring and rest it on the tail stand.

Until I found it increasingly uncomfortable, and risky to my aging back, to grab the tail spring and raise the tail to level. That is when the tailwheel hoist made its appearance in my hangar. It is really nice to be able to get the plane in a level attitude without any lifting. :)

If a pilot is still in physical condition to yank on the tail spring, that is the quickest way to raise the tail. But for some of us the personal odometer has rolled over enough times to make that an undesirable option.

i know where your coming from sam
 







One of my holiday projects. Harbor Freight $99 but had a 25% off coupon. Another 5 bucks for the bolt and one pice of 1x2 scrap metal. About $80 total in it. Works great and I really like the control of lowering it.
 
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One of my holiday projects. Harbor Freight $99 but had a 25% off coupon. Another 5 bucks for the bolt and one pice of 1x2 scrap metal. About $80 total in it. Works great and I really like the control of lowering it.

Does this get high enough to level it for weighing?
 
Did one of these from a Harbor Freight mower lift like that.

Had to extend the lift arms to get enough lift. The 8 needs about 36? of tail lift to get level for weight and balance.

It?s a nice idea concept. If was to do it again would just use the concept and the hydraulic jack with a clean sheet design.

Don?t count on just the hydraulics to hold it up. Have a pin off positive lock to hold it. The lift as it comes from Harbor Freight has pin off locations.

Personally prefer a saw horse made to the exact height for level slid under the tailwheel spring socket. Kind off like jacking a car up and putting jack stands under it before crawling under the car.
 
Does this get high enough to level it for weighing?

It would not be high enough for the 7, but it is high enough to physically pick it up for a higher stand. The elevator and rudder are in the way for me to get a good vertical lift, not as much the weight.

I made the tail-mate design, all new materials ordered/shipped and the cost was more like $100. A geometry mod is in order for a 7 as the rudder sticks back too much. Definitely use the cable lift as show in recent post.
 
Did one of these from a Harbor Freight mower lift like that.

Had to extend the lift arms to get enough lift. The 8 needs about 36? of tail lift to get level for weight and balance.

It?s a nice idea concept. If was to do it again would just use the concept and the hydraulic jack with a clean sheet design.

Don?t count on just the hydraulics to hold it up. Have a pin off positive lock to hold it. The lift as it comes from Harbor Freight has pin off locations.

Personally prefer a saw horse made to the exact height for level slid under the tailwheel spring socket. Kind off like jacking a car up and putting jack stands under it before crawling under the car.

Great inputs! I really like the way the self locking side pins work for piece of mind. I will have to ponder the extension if I need to do a Wt & Bal.
 
Here's my "contribution" to the tail jack discussion. It's my first welding project so it's wildly overbuilt but it works. Basically you pull the tail wheel up a piece of channel so no trolley is required. One "to do" is to fashion a safety catch in the event that the hooks somehow lose their grip or the HF hoist slips. Working on that, but overall I'm pleased.

IMG_0914.jpg


IMG_0915.jpg
 
My method was simple and free. I took the back off an old office chair, adjusted it all the way up. I then put my foot on the tail spring and give it a lateral nudge to get the rudder out of the way. Then I put my right hand on the tail spring wrapped with a rag. Left hand on the chair. Feet close to the tail wheel and back straight. Lift and roll chair bottom under rear section of fuselage where tail spring mounts. Nice padding from chair bottom. This leaves wheel & pivot socket easy to remove and service. I could roll it around too, If needed. This has worked great for 12 years. I am 63 and is no strain and still keep my RV grin.
 
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