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  #1  
Old 07-11-2018, 02:12 PM
snoop9erdog snoop9erdog is offline
 
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Default To micro the fairing seems and pull fasteners or not

All,

What is the consensus....to add a layer of peel ply and then micro slurry over the fiberglass fairing joint/seems and pull fasteners or get the fit as tight as you can and forgo the aforementioned and leave it a true metal plane?

For those of you who took the time to get a smooth transition (or not), would you do it again if you had it to do again?

I'm debating the whole thing....I want my fairing transitions to look nice but not at the expense of overly excessive weight or excessive time that continues to delay the "get it done" mentality.

Worth it or not?
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  #2  
Old 07-11-2018, 02:25 PM
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RV6_flyer RV6_flyer is offline
 
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It is a personal preference.

I built a metal airplane because I wanted a metal airplane. I did not do extra work on fiberglass seams. I wanted people to know where my metal work stopped and fiberglass began.

I wish I had the patients and time to do away with the fiberglass and do metal for all the fiberglass parts.
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Last edited by RV6_flyer : 07-11-2018 at 02:25 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #3  
Old 07-11-2018, 03:56 PM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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I agree with Gary, but most all metal cowls and fairings I have see where not well executed. I did make my own metal windscreen fairing, three times until I got it right, but it looks good and it will never crack as it is a separate piece(s).
As Gary stated, it is a personal preference. I have seen way too many cracks in the composites right where the “gap” would have been had they not filled it. I have also seen some very nicely done transitions that didn’t crack and probably won’t. I prefer the “separate piece” look, just like most production aircraft.
If you are going to fill the transitions, don’t skimp on prep.
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  #4  
Old 07-11-2018, 06:19 PM
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N941WR N941WR is offline
 
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I have seen a number of RV's with the seams glassed over and most of them developed cracks along the seams.

All I did was to fill the tops of the pull rivets.

The only places I used platenuts and screws were the rudder bottom and wing tips. If I were to do it again, I would attach the wing tips with piano hinges, but only after determining if they were lighter.
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  #5  
Old 07-11-2018, 10:19 PM
snoop9erdog snoop9erdog is offline
 
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Default 10-4

Appreciate the comments. I like Bills approach of just filling in the pull fasteners. I have a couple seams though that don't fit flush and down and pillow slightly which bugs me...so gonna have to tweak the fit some more.
Gonna due the piano hinch tips as well. Already got the extra hinges.
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  #6  
Old 07-11-2018, 10:40 PM
lr172 lr172 is offline
 
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I filled the seams in the H stab tips on my 6, as the original builder of the emp did a poor job. 3 years and 550 hours, no cracks. However, the seams on my 10 I did and the look respectable, so no filler. It is a professional look and doesn't detract from the plane in my opinion.

Filling pulled rivets is not easy, unless you fully cover the entire strip of rivets. You often see bleed through/imprinting around the high points and it requires 2K filler and blocking to get rid of it.

Larry
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  #7  
Old 07-12-2018, 12:52 AM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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I glassed mine on - glassed, not filled.

I used 2 oz cloth and followed the advice of one of the original CA surfboard shapers gave to me when I built a sailplane in the 70's and feathered it in at 1 inch to the oz.

I believe the cloth layer is the secret here, rather than relying on a filler only.
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  #8  
Old 07-12-2018, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Hitchen View Post
Just as Gill said above, you need to use glass tape, not just filler.
Not necessarily true.

Stabilize the joint by bonding with a structural adhesive and setting the fasteners while wet. Scuff and fill the joint with wet micro, sand slick. Done.

That experiment went together about 12 years ago. Been flying 8 years and a fuzz under 800 now. Check it on the HBC line later this month.

Reality says there are more factors than just glass fabric or none...brittle or ductile paint, for example.

To the OP's questions. Do or don't fill the seams. Either is acceptable. Build the lower rudder fairing as a removable part; a few screws and #6 nutplates. Do not surface fill or otherwise add mass aft of the hingeline unless countered by equal added mass forward of the hingeline. That dictum is automatic for the elevators, as they are to be statically balanced after paint.
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Last edited by DanH : 07-12-2018 at 08:46 AM.
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  #9  
Old 07-12-2018, 09:53 AM
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JonJay JonJay is offline
 
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Nobody will question anyone’s quality of construction when you can see it and inspect it. I will always question what I can’t see.
Who am I? Nobody.... Build the airplane YOU want.

If your going to bury your seams, make sure you know what your doing. I have seen some real messes pop up years later. Not everybody is Gil and Dan.
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