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  #1  
Old 07-05-2018, 08:51 AM
JwWright57 JwWright57 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 61
Question Dual landing lights and a few random questions

hi all - the dual landing lights are a 12is option. Has anyone done this already? (dont know if any 12is are actually flying besides for the Vans plane)

Is it worth it? How much would the extra light cost?

Also, if I needed some random hardware like more AN bolts and wire terminals should I get them from Vans or another supplier like Aircraft Spruce?
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  #2  
Old 07-05-2018, 08:55 AM
JwWright57 JwWright57 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 61
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One more -the plans call for machine countersinking the lens can I use my normal CS for that?
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  #3  
Old 07-05-2018, 10:57 AM
rcarsey rcarsey is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 33
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hey guys.. i'm actually just closing up my 2nd wing now, so this is actually fresh in my mind..

Easy stuff.. the 2nd landing light cost $345 and comes with all the additional hardware you'll need .. and the item from vans is:

http://vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/stor...&action=search

Now the more difficult part of the question.. Does anyone NEED a 2nd landing light? NO. Is it worth it? I'd say it depends on where you are in your build. .. read further..

With one light, there are 2 wires from the wing root to the light (WH-B214 and WH-B213) -- which are the power and "pulse power" (to make it blink).

If you add a second light, you'll need the same in the left wing.. but additionally, you'll need to run 1 extra wire from each light to their wing roots . This wire allows the lights to "talk" to each other, so when they blink, they are in sync.. (wig-wag). The problem of course is that this means you may need to fish a wire through your closed up wing.. or if you're still open, simply running an extra wire through the grommets. Without the wire, I suppose they would still blink, but they would not be in sync.


The countersinking: use regular methods.. just keep in mind that its plexi and you cut through quickly.. The tools list in the beginning of the manual has a 100 degree MSK cutter with #27 pilot-hole listed.. and all these holes are #27's. For the dimpling, I used the dimple dies i used for all my other #30 holes.. which i don't think was right because my #6 screws arent flush with the skin. and all my other dies i have..the pilot hole is too small..

For tips:
  1. they tell you to use masking tape to pull the lens forward, flush up against the skin. Don't bother. I applied masking tape to the front of the lens (covering all of it). Insert into the wing. Reach around through the wingtip, and press it up against the skin. Note the gap between the plexi and the skin. Center it so there is the same gap in the upper half vs lower half of the plexi. Draw the cutout's outline onto the masking tape. Also mark the 8 screw holes. Pull out the lens.. mark your cut-lines per the manual - 1/4" on the left and right sides.. 1/4" above and below the holes (use the inner-most 2 holes as your guide). I used a band saw with a sheetmetal (fine tooth) blade to cut the lens. It cuts easily, just be sure that the lens is laying flat, else the blade may grab the lens and slap it and crack the plexi.
  2. After all the holes were drilled to #30 (#27 for the plexi), I assembled the light & supporting mini-ribs.. put them into the wing (just dangling). I then put the plexi in place.. screwed it in. Then (reaching thru the wingtip), I positioned the light into place, cleco'd and rivet'd. You can mount/rivet the light first, then screw in the plexi.. but its hard to reach in there with the light in the way.. nor did I have "double-sided tape" or hot glue to hold the bracket to the plexi..
  3. The #27 and #30 plexi bits were hard to find. You may be able to get away with regular bits, but you'll need them for the canopy... I found them at McMaser-Carr. https://www.mcmaster.com/#27465A343 and https://www.mcmaster.com/#27465A339
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  #4  
Old 07-05-2018, 10:58 AM
rcarsey rcarsey is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 33
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and no.. there are only 2 flying RV-12iS's.. both are factory planes. My understanding is they haven't put out the kits for the powerplant and avionics just yet.
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  #5  
Old 07-05-2018, 11:58 AM
az_gila's Avatar
az_gila az_gila is online now
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
Posts: 9,549
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One of the canopy makers suggests the preferred method to countersink is with a single flute/hole bit.

Like this -

http://www.cleavelandtool.com/Single.../#.Wz5bo9JKhhE
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  #6  
Old 07-05-2018, 12:34 PM
rcarsey rcarsey is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 33
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ugh.. i should also mention that you'll need a #6 screw dimple die.. which wasn't listed on the tool list in the manual.. i guess because the lights are options.


https://www.browntool.com/Listview/t...rch=dimple+die
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  #7  
Old 07-05-2018, 01:45 PM
JwWright57 JwWright57 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 61
Talking

thx a ton RCARSEY
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Rv-12 started! Tail 99% done
Wings 50% complete..............
Dues paid 2018
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  #8  
Old 07-05-2018, 02:28 PM
rocketman1988 rocketman1988 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Sunman, IN
Posts: 1,023
Default Countersink

I use a 100 degree permagrit bit for counter sinking plastics. Works great as it is a tungsten carbide abrasive and does not have any flutes to grip the plastic...
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