Drilling the canopy - Page 3

Stockmanreef · #21 05-27-2018, 11:47 AM

Any reason that these numbered drill (plexi-point) bits can't be used to enlarge holes? Or will they cause chipping? The #40 worked well for the initial drilling of the back window.

https://www.abbeon.com/Item--i-2118

For enlarging the hole from #40 to #36 for the roll bar side of the window, would the #36 plexiglass-point be OK for this job, since it will be enlarged to #27 anyway later? Or is a #36 reamer required?

Also, for final drilling to #27 for all the holes, would a plexi-point be OK, since one will be backing up the hole with a piece of wood? Or would a step bit be better, even though the hole would be bigger 5/32". Of course fo rate back holes, I doubt that there is a step bit that would initial fit into the #40 holes.

Stockmanreef · #22 05-31-2018, 09:28 AM

not sure if this is a good or bad idea as a method to clean up chipped holes, but would acrylic glue work, like TAP acrylic cement, help clean up the hole edges. The solvents would soften up the edges and the monomer would polymerize and "seal" the micro cracks as the solvent evaporates.

I am pretty sure that the glue works by partially dissolving up the surface of the polymer (swelling) and allows the two piece (when bonding acrylic edges together) to chain entangle and bond after the solvent evaporates.

I have not tried, but from a chemistry perspective it should.

You would have to be careful to not get the glue on any place that would be visible, since it might cause visual distortion due to the monomer in the glue.

Bavafa · #23 05-31-2018, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stockmanreef

Any reason that these numbered drill (plexi-point) bits can't be used to enlarge holes? Or will they cause chipping? The #40 worked well for the initial drilling of the back window.

https://www.abbeon.com/Item--i-2118

For enlarging the hole from #40 to #36 for the roll bar side of the window, would the #36 plexiglass-point be OK for this job, since it will be enlarged to #27 anyway later? Or is a #36 reamer required?

Also, for final drilling to #27 for all the holes, would a plexi-point be OK, since one will be backing up the hole with a piece of wood? Or would a step bit be better, even though the hole would be bigger 5/32". Of course fo rate back holes, I doubt that there is a step bit that would initial fit into the #40 holes.

I used this type of drill bit for an existing hole (#40) and had zero issues. I just wish I knew of a source that sold these type of drill in a numbered size. The hole that they produce is absolutely great and clean. I got mine from Tap plastic.

RobB52 · #24 06-16-2018, 04:47 PM

For the back window, I initially drilled the Plexiglas with a 3/32 plexi-drill. Then I reamed to #40 then to #36. After tapping, I then reamed to #30 and finally to #27. The plexi-drill cut OK into the roll bar for the initial hole and the reamers did also for the later enlargements.

It was about 85 degrees in my shop and I noticed no chipping. This was my first time working with the Plexiglas. I was paranoid based on all the emails and tried to enlarge a little at a time.

It may have been overkill using all the reamers, but it seemed to work for me.

jfisher · #25 01-01-2019, 09:12 PM

Of all the posts I've read regarding drilling into plexi, this is the one I am going with. I am also very paranoid about the process.

Just ordered the #40 plexi bit, along with a #36 & #27 reamer.
Planning to order some scrap to practice with, then crank up the heat in the shop and get-r done.

Thanks to all for the posts.

AeroDog · #26 02-10-2019, 06:38 PM

When using reamers in metal, I've always done it by hand. For plexiglass, can you chuck it up in a drill and use a slow speed?

JH

lr172 · #27 02-10-2019, 10:20 PM

I had good luck starting all holes with a standard #40 drill bit. Light pressure to avoid breaking through and chipping as you are seeing. You want to go slow so that you are generating a lot of heat at the tip. This helps soften the plexi a bit. After #40, upsize with a unibit. Not one chip or crack on the whole canopy.

Larry

bkervaski · #28 02-11-2019, 08:39 AM

Quote:

I had good luck starting all holes with a standard #40 drill bit.

We tested a lot of different ways on scrap.

New, sharp bits can grab instantly (even when going slow) resulting in a nice long crack and a very bad day.

I recommend only using a very dull bit here.

You can dull a bit by just drilling 4 or 5 times into a brick.

To echo what everyone else is saying, it's the heat that makes the hole nice and clean.