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  #121  
Old 02-25-2018, 07:54 PM
wirejock's Avatar
wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,120
Default F7108A Center Forward Fuselage Rib, DWG 24

There's a "Gotcha" on the cabin substructure. Maybe common to both Slider and tipper but for sure on the slider. I assume it is because the Firewall is common to both and the substructure is different.

Here's how it goes.
Manual says, cleko and drill F7109 Plate to F7108B Angle and F7108A Center Forward Fuselage Rib. No way to follow the manual here. It says to cleko the rib to the Firewall, but there are no holes in either. It also says to drill the F7108B Angle to F7108A Center Forward Fuse Rib, but the angle has to fit perfectly to the firewall and F601L Stiffener or the skin holes won't match the rib. The best solution is to assemble all the parts with the skin first. This pulls everything into the exact location.
First clamp the center rib forward flange to the left forward flange and duplicate the holes. Now the rib has holes for the Firewall. Cleko the ribs and subpanels but leave F7108B Angle out for now. Cleko the skin.

There's a trick to getting the skin in place. Start in the center. Work out in all directions with 100% clekos. When you get to the curve by the side skin, start at the forward #30 holes and work aft one hole at a time with 100% clekos. Leave it overnight. Back to the substructure...

Draw a 1/4" edge distance line on F7108B Angle. The Aft two holes are 3/16" so draw a line 3/8" edge distance line on the aft end for those two holes. Slide the F7108B Angle in place. Position F7108B Angle on F7108A Rib and mark one forward and one aft hole. Remove it and look at the edge distances. Adjust as needed so the holes fall within edge distance. I had to make an .063" shim between F7108B Angle and F601L Stiffener then file the slot in F7105A Rib. Once all the holes are good, clamp the angle to the rib and mark the hole through the F7108B Angle on F601L Stiffener. Disassemble. Match drill the angle and remove. Drill the hole in F601L Stiffener. Reassemble. Now all the parts are in position and the firewall can be match drilled through the rib or marked and drilled later with a super sharp drill bit. Don't mess with the hole in the top corner of the angle. Since this matches the other rib, just cleko the other rib to the forward side of the firewall, mark, remove and drill it from the front.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.

Last edited by wirejock : 02-26-2018 at 02:47 PM.
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  #122  
Old 03-03-2018, 03:48 PM
amaris amaris is online now
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Santa Ynez, CA
Posts: 147
Default Flap Hinge

I failed to measure the exact length for the flap hinge and went by the plans. 56" was too short and doesn't allow enough edge distance. Doh.
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7A - 544RV In Progress
Santa Ynez, CA
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  #123  
Old 03-16-2018, 08:17 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 4,733
Default Setting Aileron Position using Tooling Holes

I set my aileron using the tooling holes in the rib aft of spar. The ailerons were off. I went through resetting them based on in flight and matching to the flaps. Vans tech whacked my pee-pee and said in no uncertain terms to use the fixture and set to the tooling holes, not to other surfaces. So I went back to recheck and this is what I found.

The tooling holes don't all align. I would suggest you use a string or a laser level when doing this procedure and not rely on just two holes and a straight edge. It could be off.

As it turned out, it was "perfect" with the far aft and far forward holes, but as you can see some holes are not aligned.

Just be aware of this when performing the procedure.

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RV-7
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Phase II 8-3-18
Repairman 11-15-18
Instrument Currency 12-17-18
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  #124  
Old 10-31-2018, 05:32 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
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Location: Estes Park, CO
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Default C-668, DWG42

I'm going to try and point out the issues on the 7, slider as I go.
Fabricating C-668 spacers, note they all all different. Forward left, forward right, aft left and aft right. The parts are cut different left and right even though the drawing shows a pair (forward & aft). Left and right are mirror image. Label them.

Roll bar. Learned a lesson. I was trying to squeeze it to narrow the bar. When the web clamp was released the bar snapped open and actually got wider. Going to buy a come along tomorrow so I can gently release the tension.
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
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  #125  
Old 11-01-2018, 04:36 PM
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RV7A Flyer RV7A Flyer is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: US
Posts: 1,777
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post

As it turned out, it was "perfect" with the far aft and far forward holes, but as you can see some holes are not aligned.
Sure, because two points *define* a line...

BTW, your image shows your laser going through the wrong two holes, I believe. See DWG 12A for the ones you should be using...
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Last edited by RV7A Flyer : 11-01-2018 at 04:43 PM.
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  #126  
Old 12-22-2018, 07:32 PM
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Draker Draker is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 173
Default

Here's a gotcha I just learned the hard way:

When drilling the F-772B-R&L floor stiffeners to the F-772 forward bottom skin, the plans have you to draw center lines on the angle to help you align them with the pre-punched holes in the skin. This works for the two outboard stiffeners, but if you do it that way for the two inboard stiffeners you may end up with a large gap between the stiffeners and the F-601J angle that you need to attach them to:



Instead, try this:
  1. Position the F-772B stiffener against the bottom skin
  2. Clamp the stiffener horizontally to the F-601J angle and the F-783B cover support rib
  3. Stick a sharpie through a few of the holes in the bottom skin, including the forward-most and aft-most holes
  4. Remove the sitffeners and verify the holes will not bust edge distance
  5. Re-clamp the stiffeners and drill

You may also have to cut a small relief notch in the top-forward part of the stiffeners in order to clear the vertical firewall angle. Here's what mine look like after using the above method:

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https://stiletto.smugmug.com/RV7
Donated 1/2/2019
RV-7A: Empennage and wing kits complete minus fiberglass, fuselage in progress!
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  #127  
Old 01-22-2019, 05:23 PM
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wirejock wirejock is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Estes Park, CO
Posts: 3,120
Default F7108C Angle, DWG 24, Slider

Here's one to remember.
A tiny piece, F7108C Angle on DWG 24. Don't forget to drill and install it. It ties F7105A Center Sub Panel, F7109 Plate, F7108 Forward Fuselage Rib, F7108B Angle together.
I recommend doing it with F7106 Top Skin clekoed with a few in place to make sure the holes stay in alignment.
Thankfully I caught it before the top skin was riveted in place or three rivets would have been much more difficult to remove!
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Larry Larson
Estes Park, CO
http://wirejockrv7a.blogspot.com
wirejock at yahoo dot com
Donated 12/27/2018. Plus a little extra.
RV-7A #73391, N511RV reserved (2,000+ hours)
HS SB, empennage, tanks, wings, fuse, working finishing kit
Disclaimer
I cannot be, nor will I be, held responsible if you try to do the same things I do and it does not work and/or causes you loss, injury, or even death in the process.
Reply With Quote
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