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  #1  
Old 12-08-2013, 05:23 PM
kyle Lee kyle Lee is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Geelong Australia
Posts: 15
Default Molex microfit madness!

Has anyone, after investing in a proper Open Barrel Crimp Tool for Molex pins and studying the abundant information on how to get a good crimp and after thinking that you have crimped it properly, had problems inserting the Micro-fit pins into the actual plugs (after trying all four different possible orientations more than once)?

I am referring to the RV-12 trim wire upgrade. Detailed on Pg 11-07 revision 3, dated 10/18/11, this shows the fitting of Molex Micro-Fit pins into the ES-00044 and ES-00045 Molex Plug, 6 Position Micro-Fit(s).

I have installed the male Micro-Fit pins onto the ES-MSTS-T3-7A-2 wire. These successfully went into the ES-00044 connector. However, upon trying to do the same with the mating end (WH-P30 Trim Wires) and installing the female ends into the ES-00045, I am unsuccessful.

Any suggestions on how to be more successful with the female ends? (Insert joke here but real suggestions would be most helpful)
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  #2  
Old 12-08-2013, 05:51 PM
funflying funflying is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: arvada, co
Posts: 385
Default It was a struggle

I ended up abandoning the plug bodies and using heat shrink on each wire, still using the molex pins, and covering each assembly with the shrink. I used tie wraps to secure the completed connections and I have 24 hours of flight logged and the connections are working well.

I tried and tried to get the pins to properly seat in the small plug but I just could not so I tried this method. I will continue to evaluate over time.
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  #3  
Old 12-08-2013, 07:54 PM
Gandalf Gandalf is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Medford, OR
Posts: 279
Default

Kyle... It has been a while since I did that step. I do not recall a problem getting the pins into the connector bodies. I do recall difficulty crimping the wires. I tested the crimped connections, the connectors and servo motor using a motorcycle battery.

Jeff
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  #4  
Old 12-09-2013, 06:45 AM
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f1rocket f1rocket is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Martinsville, IN
Posts: 2,283
Default

Yep, I had a lot of problems with them. I could not get them to work either so I used a DB9 connector with crimp pins and then used heat shrink to hold it together.
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  #5  
Old 12-09-2013, 07:43 AM
BillL BillL is online now
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Central IL
Posts: 4,513
Default More detail?

I am building a 7 and only using the Molex for Whelen wiring, but I did tray a little research on Molex product and found a large number of pin dimensions. What exactly is the issue, is the pin diameter correct for the body? Caliper the end, and try a drill bit the same size. Will it not click in place? Is it too hard to push before full insertion and there is fear of bending it?

Have you destroyed any in the process? Too much push in force?

I have found that the right orientation and force will get "a" job done with these connectors, all connectors, but a few have been sanded down on the belt sander to see how the inside was made to determine what was "correct". Once "correct" was determined the connectors were not so much of an issue.

Even when known, I have had some very stubborn d-sub pins that did not want to exit the body, and persistence was needed.
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  #6  
Old 12-09-2013, 10:05 AM
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AllThumbs AllThumbs is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Novato, CA
Posts: 310
Default

Those pins are fussy. I've found my most common mistake is to accidentally crimp the latching flanges that splay out from the pin or barrel housing at about a 30 degree angle.

If you crimp those it both deforms the pin making it hard to insert and prevents it from latching into the molex housing because you've destroyed the latching flanges. There are only two locations to crimp: the outer one that captures the wire jacket and the next one in that makes contact with the stripped wire.

Finally, I like to hit the inner crimp with a tiny bit of solder - but only after I'm happy with the crimp, not in lieu of a good crimp. Too much solder and the pin won't insert.

For low-amp stuff (< 3A @ 14V) I now use D-SUB connector. Much less fussy. If I know I can get a small cutter back on the connecters after installation I will sometimes use tie-wrap to secure them together if there is insufficient room for back-shells but, without a back-shell, there may not be enough strain relief on the wires in case the bundle gets pulled.
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  #7  
Old 12-09-2013, 12:53 PM
gossend gossend is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Georgetown, Texas
Posts: 153
Thumbs down Forget Micro-Molex!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kyle Lee View Post
Has anyone, after investing in a proper Open Barrel Crimp Tool for Molex pins and studying the abundant information on how to get a good crimp and after thinking that you have crimped it properly, had problems inserting the Micro-fit pins into the actual plugs (after trying all four different possible orientations more than once)?

I am referring to the RV-12 trim wire upgrade. Detailed on Pg 11-07 revision 3, dated 10/18/11, this shows the fitting of Molex Micro-Fit pins into the ES-00044 and ES-00045 Molex Plug, 6 Position Micro-Fit(s).

I have installed the male Micro-Fit pins onto the ES-MSTS-T3-7A-2 wire. These successfully went into the ES-00044 connector. However, upon trying to do the same with the mating end (WH-P30 Trim Wires) and installing the female ends into the ES-00045, I am unsuccessful.

Any suggestions on how to be more successful with the female ends? (Insert joke here but real suggestions would be most helpful)
Kyle, I had the same problem(s). I've been a big MOLEX fan for a long time, but I'm afraid they blew it with this 'micro' series. I used the old nylon style with 0.062 pins for the trim motor. I'll probably use a DB9 for the headset wires. Good luck!
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  #8  
Old 12-09-2013, 07:13 PM
Seaflyer16 Seaflyer16 is offline
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 28
Angry I gave up

And used a DB9.
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  #9  
Old 12-10-2013, 06:52 AM
kyle Lee kyle Lee is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Geelong Australia
Posts: 15
Default

Well, it is a bit more reassuring to hear that others have experienced the same thing. I agree with Gossend that the larger Molex pins were a breeze but these Micro series are a pain.
In response to BillL, I believe that the pin diameter is the right size as the complete set came out in the RV-12 Trim Wire Upgrade package. We have not destroyed any in the process but originally started with light force moving through the full spectrum into grunting and cursing (also used the tool that comes supplied to assist with not much more luck). It just seems like it does not go in deep enough to make the "click" and lock.
I might go the same road as many of you experienced builders have and look at other options for wiring this together.
Thank you all for your input.
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2013, 06:05 PM
dick seiders dick seiders is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 905
Default

I am installing the light kit on my D180 equipped 12. Am having some difficulty with small male and female pins for Molex, but find if I use a little wiggle force with a small needle nose pliers they go in and lock in place.
What is a DB9?
Dick Seiders
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