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  #21  
Old 07-16-2014, 08:28 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 2,651
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I do not know about pins. But for switches, gold contacts are for low current, say 0.5 amps or less. Silver contacts are for higher current.
Joe Gores
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  #22  
Old 07-16-2014, 11:05 PM
bob1393 bob1393 is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Port Orchard, Wa
Posts: 84
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Thanks Joe - I probably better stay with the silver ones then as I do not know the current.

Bob
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  #23  
Old 08-13-2014, 07:39 PM
FredC FredC is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Shalimar, Florida
Posts: 10
Default Solution for Molex Micro-Fit Madness

Reference Micro-Fit connector for stabilator servo and RV-12 Kit Assembly Instruction, page 11-07, Revision 3. I had a terrible time trying to insert the ES-00047 Molex Micro-Fit pins into the ES-00044 plug.

The pins only insert in one orientation, and I could put them in with my fingers, but they would pull right out. After about 30 minutes of frustration, I used the red and white pin insertion/removal tool that came with my avionics kit to press the pins more deeply into the plug. That seated them.

There was no problem with the ES-00046 sockets and the ES-00045 receptacle. The sockets just latched in when I inserted them with my fingers.
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  #24  
Old 06-28-2018, 09:03 PM
tgmillso tgmillso is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Launceston, Tasmania, Australia
Posts: 591
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Like the OP of this thread, I was having a **** of a time getting the female pins of the molex microfit into the plug bodies. Turns out I had the SL Series female pins and not the Microfit 3.0 style. The SL series have a single wing/latch on the top, whereas the Microfit 3.0 have one on each side. Once I had sourced the correct female pins, they went in fine. I found the standard Stein open barrel crimper a little wide for these, so I have been using my JST-SH crimper that is normally used for model RC servos, which seems to work well for this application.
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykin...___store=en_us
I've been using the small position on this crimp tool for crimping 22AWG wires into these pins. It crimps both the insulation and the wire at the same time, which I'm not such a big fan of, but all crimps thus far pass the pull test and seem to fit the housing bodies.
Tom.
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  #25  
Old 07-05-2018, 11:03 AM
rcarsey rcarsey is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: North Brunswick, NJ
Posts: 21
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I had to do a bit of research when i mangled my molex connector for the landing light.

I found that they discontinued that nylon part.. I ended up using a MicroFit connector instead and I made sure the amp rating was sufficient.

Meanwhile, the microfit on the AST i believe was recently replaced with a DB-9 connector.. ?
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  #26  
Old 07-05-2018, 11:07 AM
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bkervaski bkervaski is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Birmingham, Alabama
Posts: 721
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I feel your pain ... wear glasses ... seriously ... that solved my microfit molex crimping issues.

There are 3 sets of "dog ears" or "tabs" on the pins. The two wire-facing tabs are for the wire housing and the exposed wire. Then, there is another set, almost impossible to see, forward of those, that you absolutely have to make sure you don't tweak or bend as that set is what grabs the inside of the housing. It is *really* easy to bend them if you aren't paying attention to how you have them oriented in the crimping tool and it doesn't take much to render them useless.

Once I figured this out I can do it perfect every time.
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Last edited by bkervaski : 07-05-2018 at 11:12 AM.
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  #27  
Old 07-05-2018, 01:06 PM
barryrv10 barryrv10 is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Fl
Posts: 131
Default Grind Crimper Face

I found I had to grind down the crimper face so it fit between the wings that crimp to the insulation and the wings that hold the pin in the connector socket, and just crimp the wings that connect the wire to the pin; those little pins are a pain to work with
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  #28  
Old 07-05-2018, 02:01 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Pocahontas MS
Posts: 2,905
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subD pins. (as in, period) :-)

You can use the crimpers you already have for... subD pins. The machined ones are gold plated, as Joe mentioned a few years ago in this thread. Someone else back then mentioned that the ones in the kit were 'silver'. If they were Molex, they might have been silver *colored*... but unlikely they had silver plating.

Anyone know if the smaller CPC series connectors take subD pins & tools, or do you need dedicated tools for them?

Charlie
(did I mention that across multiple careers in electronics, I have an ever growing hatred for molex style connectors?)
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  #29  
Old 07-05-2018, 02:35 PM
bcondrey bcondrey is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Bellevue, NE
Posts: 485
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CPC series 2 connectors (8-63 pin) use standard d-sub pins & sockets. The other CPC series use different pins.
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RV-10 #2 99.9% Complete
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  #30  
Old 07-05-2018, 06:43 PM
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vernon smith vernon smith is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: Naples FL
Posts: 142
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The majority of the generic crimpers have fingers .150" to .180" thick. The mini Molex pins measure .130" from the rear detente protrusions to the insulation crimp. The choice is grind the crimper fingers down or crimp the wire and the pin simultaneously. As me how I know this


It takes two steady hands to keep the wire correctly positioned if you elect to go the unicrimp way. If you do either and do not disturb the retention protrusions they will stay in position well. I have converted to all 9 pin D Subs because the little weight savings with the Molex is not great enough to offset the addded hassle of crimping the Molex pins.
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