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  #1  
Old 06-27-2018, 01:55 PM
rvator10's Avatar
rvator10 rvator10 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fountain Hills, arizona
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Default Wire harness Molex connector help

Vans RV14 fuselage harness is north of $1500, and so I would like to build my own, with small changes to accommodate my specific needs.
Iím having trouble locating the tail-cone/wings interface Molex connectors that would normally come on the Vans generic fuselage harness.
The drawing has PNs like: ES-00013, ES-00009, ES-00010, ES-00042, ES-00044, ES-00045, ES-00143 and ES-00144.
I only see Vans sells a couple of the PNs but not all of them.
Do you think the ES-xxxxx is the Molex number or Vans?
Any suggestions how to find the mate connectors to the Tail-cone harness/Wings harnesses?
I have located web sites that have hundreds to look through, but this is very confusing and questioning the correct selection.
Thanks
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  #2  
Old 06-27-2018, 02:21 PM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
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Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
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Call SteinAir. They make the harnesses and also are a great source for wiring, connectors etc
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  #3  
Old 06-27-2018, 04:24 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is online now
 
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I strongly recommend you do not try to duplicate the Vanís wiring harness - but specifically do not use those little miniature molex connectors he has for the trim servos. Just wire it the way you want - as in something that make sense to you.

Call Stein and ask what connectors he recommends.

Carl
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  #4  
Old 06-27-2018, 08:14 PM
Stockmanreef Stockmanreef is offline
 
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I started replacing some of the micromolex connectors with the following:

http://www.deutschconnector.com/prod...es_connectors/


worked great for the connection to the elevator trim.
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  #5  
Old 07-01-2018, 01:21 AM
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RV-14E RV-14E is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Colorado
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The airframe is provisioned for Molex series 1360, 1292 connectors.

And example of the tail harness which I wired looks like this:



I have the part numbers for the receptacles, plugs and pins here, complete with links to DigiKey:

http://rv-14a.blogspot.com/2016/08/w...harnesses.html

The Molex that plugs in to WH-00057 (Aft Fuselage Harness) plugs in to this:



Part numbers for the wing root wiring can be found here on my wire map image on that page:

http://rv-14a.blogspot.com/2017/05/w...ot-wiring.html

They look like this (I added the additional 6-pin Molex for my GRT roll servo and is not necessary if you're following the plans):



Part numbers for the canopy harness Molex connectors can be found here my wire map image on that page (they are the same as for the tail harness, but I have both the plug and receptacle listed there):

http://rv-14a.blogspot.com/2017/04/a...h-and-fan.html

It looks like this:



The elevator trim is a micro Molex type. I used the same style connector for wiring my LEMO connectors, outlined in the link below. In the wire map image, the part numbers are identified. However, the aft deck uses a snap-in panel mount (which I didn't used for my LEMO connectors since it isn't necessary there). That part number is 0430200600 and can be found here.

http://rv-14a.blogspot.com/2016/07/a...installed.html

They look like these:



For crimping the bigger Molex pins, I used this:



For the micro Molex pins, I used this:


Last edited by RV-14E : 07-01-2018 at 11:10 AM.
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  #6  
Old 07-01-2018, 07:49 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Location: Pocahontas MS
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I really hate molex style connectors; I saw many failures in a couple of different electronics related careers. With the -14, it might be the path of least resistance to use the as-designed connectors (I assume they have pre-punched mounting holes, etc). But on anything I built, I'd find a way to use sub-D connectors. The machined pins (crimp style) are rated at up to 7 amps, and with 'ballasting', multiple pins can be paralleled for higher currents. There are few circuits in an RV that need more than 7 amps, and fewer that need more than 14.

Do you see any molex stuff on the back of your latest avionics?

Just a FWIW...
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  #7  
Old 07-01-2018, 08:43 AM
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flion flion is offline
 
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D-subs are Ok but CPCs are usually better, IMHO. Aircraft Spruce only sells a few varieties but places like Digikey and Mouser can get you whatever you want. In the rudder I have a 4-pin CPC, for example. You can get bulkhead-mount CPCs as well, which I am using for my wing wiring connections, amongst other applications. Why do I prefer CPCs? They lock together firmly but can be unlocked by hand more easily than undoing the screws that lock D-subs together. They can also accommodate larger wire gauges. And I have even found sealed (expensive) CPCs for firewall use.

BTW, those part numbers in the original post are Van's (ES for Electrical System). If you search for molex, you will often find what you want under AMP connectors instead. Those kind of connectors aren't bad but I find their locking mechanisms are sometimes difficult and have also seen old ones get brittle.
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  #8  
Old 07-01-2018, 08:57 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Agree on the tedious screw-locking mechanism for subDs, but for inline service, you can get a spring 'bale' connection that just requires flipping two spring-wire loops to lock or unlock. And in an RV, the intervals between opening those joints should be measured in years; not days.

For low pin count, round connectors are fine. But once you get past a half dozen or so pins, assembling (or more important, maintenance/modding at a later date) can get to be a real pain. I assembled some 'Cannon' style milspec connectors (solder cup style, around 80 pins) many years ago. Never want to do it again.

edit: Are the cpc pins/sockets gold plated? Machined, or stamped?

Last edited by rv7charlie : 07-01-2018 at 09:03 AM.
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  #9  
Old 07-01-2018, 10:15 AM
Tom Martin Tom Martin is offline
 
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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If you are winging the plane yourself, particularly the tail, there really is no need for connecters. Leave a six or eight inch service loop. Test the trim to make sure it works right then wire directly to the elevator. Should you have to remove the tail you have the service loop for extra wire, or you could put a connector in at that time. Fewer connections means less wiring errors, less potential for future corrosion etc. I am sure that if you purchase a wiring harness from Stein, if you do not do your own, they could add the extra wire at little extra cost.
My rocket tail has been off once in 12 years and the service loop made it easy to hook back up, still without the need of a connector.
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