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Old 06-12-2018, 11:28 AM
SuperCubDriver SuperCubDriver is offline
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Germany
Posts: 317

I too tried to do the SB as a precautionary step and failed. Built a new stab and had to drill the fastener holes into the lower angle. For this I used a 1" wide 1/8 aluminum flat and matchdrilled this one through the angle on the "old" stab. Then carefully matchdrilled the angle on the new stab making sure not to shift the holes left or right.

Another solution would be to remove the spar and just build a new one. This however involves removing hundreds of rivets, also from the rear spar. They are easily accessible though.
RV-7 flying, IO-375 w. P-Mags, 200RV Prop

RV-8 flying, IO-375, P-Mags, 74RV Prop
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Old 06-12-2018, 11:59 AM
Tom Martin Tom Martin is offline
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,435

Before removing the stab make some templates of hole locations using aluminium scraps. Mark the centre line on the fuse and your old stab. Make the same line on the template.
Making these templates and drilling holes in them as your removing bolts will greatly aid in aligning the new parts. Using drilling bushings will protect the holes in your fuselage during the drilling.
There are many ways to do this but I have used this system with a high degree of success
Tom Martin RV1 pilot 4.6hours!
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2010 SARL Rocket 100 race, average speed of 238.6 knots/274.6mph
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Old 06-13-2018, 10:15 PM
Rallylancer122 Rallylancer122 is offline
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Oconto, WI
Posts: 106

I just fixed this. I actually did 2. I had a stab that the previous builder had screwed up the SB on, and vans recommended build a new one. So I bought another completed stab and did the SB. In the process I egged a few holes. Ultimately, with consultation from Vans, I filled those with Cherrymaxes.

However in the process of doing the SB I realized that repairing my original stab wouldn't be that bad. I "re-spar'd" it. Yeah, it's drilling out lots of rivets, but to be honest it was a couple hours with a handful of sharp #40 bits and that was it. The spar parts are cheap, and you can incorporate the SB on the bench when you build up the new spar. I had to used cherry max in a few places because of the difference sequence in a new build vs respar, but only on the inside. From the outside you can't tell. This was much faster, and to be honest, much cheaper than building a new stab.

Drilling the mounting holes is a PITA! Especially if your turtle deck is on. (Mine is a completed plane I inherited). Your best bet is to find a talented 12 year old and send him in there to match drill the holes from below. Barring that, prepare for some bruises crawling back in there. I used an angle drill.

Be super careful you don't egg out the holes, especially on the longerons. Vans is pretty picky on the edge distance on those. I had to repair those on my plane also. After a lot of back and forth Vans and I settled on a prototype repair (I still need to send them back the pics). BTW, if you end up with oversize holes the special NAS 7/32" bolts are $40 each and the only place that has them is Spencer Aircraft. My tail is stronger than it ever was, but it was not a fun job.

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Old 06-14-2018, 04:38 AM
chopperchops chopperchops is offline
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
Posts: 30

I too replaced lots of parts while doing the mod during the build process...glad I did though, cheap piece of mind!
Rob Chopin
Wings done, fuse in progress.
Queensland Australia
VAF Dues paid-worth every penny!!!
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