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NipponDenso Alternator

jmbrwn

Well Known Member
What is the little canister device at the 12 o'clock position with wire that runs down to nut at 6 o'clock position? Not on alternator that I am replacing. Is it needed...or should I remove? Alternator has lasted 15 years, 850+hrs


ry%3D480
 
Condenser, used for noise suppression. If you don't have a new one (not generally necessary) then I would not use an old one as they do go bad.
 
Since we are on the Nippon Denso alternated topic...

My plane has the same alternator. The original builder used a regular spade coupler for the field wire. I'm a part 121 wiring guy and a spade terminal doesn't work too well with me. Does anyone have a part number and a source for the correct plug that will lock into this alternator?
 
Wow, 850 hrs. over 15 yrs. That's great longevity!! What are your operating, installation or other secrets for getting such good service. I've felt fortunate to get half of that.

Mike
 
Which alternator?

Jim, which alternator is that? Is it a 60 amp internal regulated one? Can you give us the details on it? Part number, car make and model that it is used on? I've seen different details in the past, but nothing lately. I have the 60 amp Vans alternator from 2007, it is now 8.5 yrs old and I have 860 hrs on it. No cooling tube. It has worked great all these years, but I want to be ready when I have to replace it. I just replaced my PC680 battery and contactors this March, 8yrs old.
 
Bobby....sent you a PM. Mine is the 35 amp model Nippon Denso 14184. It is externally regulated. The model 14684 is 60 amps and internally regulated. Don't know what make/model car it fits...but don't think you'd need that if you just give them the model number of the alternator.
Finished installing mine today and running fine. I have a blast tube for cooling directed at back of alternator.
 
Thanks Jim!

That is the model number I had in my notes, so I guess I'm ready when the time comes! 860 hrs and counting.
My notes also say that most auto parts houses no longer carry that part number, but a direct plug in replacement is model number 14824 for a 1987 Suzuki Samurai

Bobby....sent you a PM. Mine is the 35 amp model Nippon Denso 14184. It is externally regulated. The model 14684 is 60 amps and internally regulated. Don't know what make/model car it fits...but don't think you'd need that if you just give them the model number of the alternator.
Finished installing mine today and running fine. I have a blast tube for cooling directed at back of alternator.
 
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That is the model number I had in my notes, so I guess I'm ready when the time comes! 860 hrs and counting.
My notes also say that most auto parts houses no longer carry that part number, but a direct plug in replacement is model number 14824 for a 1987 Suzuki Samurai

Just adding on to this thread as I'm in the process of searching for an auto version replacement for my Plane Power. 14824 is not a direct replacement for the 14184. The 14184 uses an external regulator (which is what I want). The 14824 is internally regulated.

The 14184 does not appear to be commonly stocked anymore, at least in my town, but OReilly Auto just needed 2 days to get one in. Ideally I'd like to find an externally regulated drop-in alternative to the 14184 that is kept in stock by most auto part stores so that when I'm away from home I have any easy alternator fix. If anyone knows of a 14184 equivalent that is externally regulated (35-60 amps OK), please let me know.
 
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That question

is exactly what I have been trying to answer.

I would prefer 45 to 60 amp output, but the legacy ND seems to be limited to about 35 amps, and is often not a stock item. There seems to be some ND alternators that have screw connectors, vice the dreaded plug connectors, typically seen on some Chrysler/jeep products, but I have not found the magic number yet.

The local alternator shop has been less than helpful in this matter.
 
Just adding on to this thread as I'm in the process of searching for an auto version replacement for my Plane Power.

Steve, Did you check out the Toyota Paseo 1997 alternator? [OEM 102211-5091 ,102211-5090 , Lester 13711] It is 100mm dia stator like the PP 60A. It is the only one I found that has the correct clocking for the mounts. The PP has a plain rear housing that does not participate in the mount pivot. The PP hsg could be reused. These are IR but there are brush holders that can convert it to external regulated. I have not researched the exact part number for the external.

These are called the Mini-denso alternators and if you google that lots of options come up, but have the wrong housing/mounts.

I think the PP might not have a direct automotive number. It could be a custom combination of available parts.
 
Hi Bill-
I hadn't checked out the Toyota's. If I don't end up going with the 14184, and decide to go with an IR alternator, that sounds like a potentially good option. B&C also sends with their crowbar overvoltage protection module a wiring diagram that shows how to provide OV protection for IR's. They apparently don't publish it widely but still provide the schematics in case someone wants to go that direction. The only caveat is that BAT and ALT masters must be turned on/off at same time, and their diagram suggests one switch for both.
Thanks again.


Larry-
If I ever find an equivalent for the 14184 I'll try to remember to post here. Apparently the 14129 is the exact same alternator but the fan has vanes that push the air the opposite direction (since we don't really need the fan's the 14129's can simply be removed, especially since that's how Van's used to sell the 14184's). To me it's still a bit ambiguous, though, because some references suggest that one has CW rotation and the other CCW rotation. Not sure what that means or what relevance it has for our applications. ???? People with more alternator knowledge than I would need to explain that to me.

See "applcation notes" on this link...
http://www.armatureserviceco.com/ShowItem/134905 14184 NIPPONDENSO ALTERNATOR.aspx

Still, this would just be 35A, so it would not address your desire for more amps... but, might make a replacement more likely in the even your stranded away from home and can't find a 14184 in stock.
 
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The Nippondenso P/N 210-0237 (Lester #14757) fits a 1987-89 Honda Civic with A/C and is rated for 55 amps. It is internally regulated and turns the "correct" way. You can add one of Bob Nuckolls' over voltage modules or do what I did to modify the alternator for an external regulator: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Alternators/One-Wire_Alternator_Conversion.pdf

As supplied the alternator has a 3-groove, 15mm ID pulley but you can change that. You may also have to change the spacer arrangement on the mount for proper pulley alignment.

The only other thing I did was stabilize the stator wires that go to the diode assy with some thick glue-filled shrink tubing.

Seems like a lot of work but it was kind of a "science-fair" project for me. The alternator was $85 at O'Reilly's, with a lifetime warranty. Pulleys and other parts can be had at: https://www.alternatorparts.com/
 
Just adding on to this thread as I'm in the process of searching for an auto version replacement for my Plane Power. 14824 is not a direct replacement for the 14184. The 14184 uses an external regulator (which is what I want). The 14824 is internally regulated.

The 14184 does not appear to be commonly stocked anymore, at least in my town, but OReilly Auto just needed 2 days to get one in. Ideally I'd like to find an externally regulated drop-in alternative to the 14184 that is kept in stock by most auto part stores so that when I'm away from home I have any easy alternator fix. If anyone knows of a 14184 equivalent that is externally regulated (35-60 amps OK), please let me know.

A conversion is possible...

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Alternators/One-Wire_Alternator_Conversion.pdf
 
The Nippondenso P/N 210-0237 (Lester #14757) fits a 1987-89 Honda Civic with A/C and is rated for 55 amps. It is internally regulated and turns the "correct" way. .....

....As supplied the alternator has a 3-groove, 15mm ID pulley but you can change that. You may also have to change the spacer arrangement on the mount for proper pulley alignment.

The only other thing I did was stabilize the stator wires that go to the diode assy with some thick glue-filled shrink tubing.
Thanks for the idea, Mike. I noticed this has the wider mounting arm, more like the Plane Power, and it appears to be clocked just like the PP so that the original straight tensioning arm I got with my PP should also work.

You mentioned spacer arrangement on the mount. Was that using one of the stock Van's mounting brackets?

You mentioned stabilizing the stator wires. Was there a specific reason you felt you needed to do that on this particular model?

Also, I notice the technical service bulletin from Autozone lists the Technical Service Bulleting that specifically indicated that the pulley should not be removed/replaced on this model. I wonder if they're just covering themselves or whether there's some problem with doing that... Maybe they just assume they won't be torqued on properly?

http://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...nator/duralast-alternator/680660_23521_10584/
 
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I don't have my alt number handy. I looked at the 14184, but needed more capacity. There were some good cross-reference tools out there that let me jump across different models. Finally settled on a a late 80' vintage Honda model. Then found a variety of alternators that would work in that configuration, both CW and CCW. I ended up with a 50 amp CCW externally regulated with a larger V pulley (larger is better for us airplane guys with larger crank pulleys). I paid about $40 on Amazon.

Most all auto engines turn CW (viewed from drivers seat) and most turn the alternator the same direction. Our Lyc engines turn CCW. YOu want a CCW alt if you can. A CW will still pull some air through it, so don't remove the fan. If it wasn't necessary, it wouldn't be there.

I will grab the alt # tomorrow if I go to the plane.

Larry
 
The Nippondenso P/N 210-0237 (Lester #14757) fits a 1987-89 Honda Civic with A/C and is rated for 55 amps. It is internally regulated and turns the "correct" way. You can add one of Bob Nuckolls' over voltage modules or do what I did to modify the alternator for an external regulator: http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/Alternators/One-Wire_Alternator_Conversion.pdf

As supplied the alternator has a 3-groove, 15mm ID pulley but you can change that. You may also have to change the spacer arrangement on the mount for proper pulley alignment.

The only other thing I did was stabilize the stator wires that go to the diode assy with some thick glue-filled shrink tubing.

Seems like a lot of work but it was kind of a "science-fair" project for me. The alternator was $85 at O'Reilly's, with a lifetime warranty. Pulleys and other parts can be had at: https://www.alternatorparts.com/

Nice work Mike! Did this one have the wrapped and screwed stator connections or just the eyelet? Note - this looks like the PP but uses the 110mm dia stator (not 100mm). Do you know if it clears the prop oil tube with the PP bracket? Or did you use a different bracket? A diff bracket might help us PP users with additional clearance too. Also since the pivot incorporates the rear housing, it is wider than the PP, so a new spacer appears to be needed. Amazing how these alternator designs are scaled.
 
Bill,

The stator connections were the eyelet type. I had a few wires break at the stator windings from vibration but stabilizing the wiring fixed that. I have a fixed pitch prop so I don't know about the oil tube clearance. Also, I happen to have the small Lycoming pulley so the stock driven pulley works.

My original alternator was the Van's 35 amp unit and I used a B&C LR3 regulator. That's why I stayed with external regulation. If I was replacing a PP alternator I'd have just made arrangements for overvoltage or runaway protection and used the built-in regulator.

I have to say I can't totally disagree with the idea of just going with a PP or B&C alternator to get a new unit, especially for IFR flying or battery ignition. I had fun making this work, though.
 
I don't have my alt number handy. I looked at the 14184, but needed more capacity. There were some good cross-reference tools out there that let me jump across different models. Finally settled on a a late 80' vintage Honda model. Then found a variety of alternators that would work in that configuration, both CW and CCW. I ended up with a 50 amp CCW externally regulated with a larger V pulley (larger is better for us airplane guys with larger crank pulleys). I paid about $40 on Amazon.

.....

I will grab the alt # tomorrow if I go to the plane.

Larry

Hi Larry-
I still prefer the idea of external regulation so I'd definitely be interested in knowing what model # alternator you used as well as what mounting system you used: Van's mount, PP mount, or something else entirely.
 
Just adding this to the thread. The alternator is a 32A, from an 80s era Toyota. I'm using a B&C LR-2 external regulator. I'm thinking of putting a larger dia. pulley on it when I get a round tuit.

U0RMqB.jpg
 
I don't have my alt number handy. I looked at the 14184, but needed more capacity. There were some good cross-reference tools out there that let me jump across different models. Finally settled on a a late 80' vintage Honda model. Then found a variety of alternators that would work in that configuration, both CW and CCW. I ended up with a 50 amp CCW externally regulated with a larger V pulley (larger is better for us airplane guys with larger crank pulleys). I paid about $40 on Amazon.

Most all auto engines turn CW (viewed from drivers seat) and most turn the alternator the same direction. Our Lyc engines turn CCW. YOu want a CCW alt if you can. A CW will still pull some air through it, so don't remove the fan. If it wasn't necessary, it wouldn't be there.

I will grab the alt # tomorrow if I go to the plane.

Larry

But from the pilots seat most lyc's turn CW also.............:D
 
Alternators don't care which way they turn; the ones that have internal fans just blow air the other direction. If you use a blast tube, spin up the alt on the bench in the same direction it will turn in the a/c, to see which way the air is moving through it. Then point your blast tube to move air the same direction.
 
Just adding this to the thread. The alternator is a 32A, from an 80s era Toyota. I'm using a B&C LR-2 external regulator. I'm thinking of putting a larger dia. pulley on it when I get a round tuit.

U0RMqB.jpg

I would leave the pulley alone. It looks like your ring gear pulley is the smaller one so it won't overspeed the alternator.
 
I would leave the pulley alone. It looks like your ring gear pulley is the smaller one so it won't overspeed the alternator.
Thank you. I didn't know the ring gear pulleys came in different sizes. I didn't want to mess with it anyway!
 
RockAuto

Go to RockAuto.com and put in the Alternator p/n and it will pull up all the info you were asking for. Click on the p/n and it will give you which cars and trucks plus year.
 
is exactly what I have been trying to answer.

I would prefer 45 to 60 amp output, but the legacy ND seems to be limited to about 35 amps, and is often not a stock item. There seems to be some ND alternators that have screw connectors, vice the dreaded plug connectors, typically seen on some Chrysler/jeep products, but I have not found the magic number yet.

The local alternator shop has been less than helpful in this matter.

Delco Remy 14158 should do the trick http://www.delcoremy.com/product/product-details/14158

Or try Denso 2100244 http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=870513&cc=1167713&jsn=609
 
Thank you. I didn't know the ring gear pulleys came in different sizes. I didn't want to mess with it anyway!

They do come in two sizes.... the small pulley is good for car alternators, but you can't use them for electronic ignition pick-ups like lightspeed etc. and the large one spins the alternator (with automotive pulley) too fast.
 
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