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Going to constant speed prop

Ed_Wischmeyer

Ed_Wischmeyer

Well Known Member
So I've got *almost* everything I need:
* What the part number for the clevis fitting that goes on the end of the propeller control cable and connects it to the governor? Since I live in the southeast, it's real easy to order from Spruce...
* There is a two page document that describes how to connect Van's bracket to the governor. The dog ate my copy. Can anybody take pictures of theirs and email it?
* I forgot to order metal grommets for the firewall. Anybody have any favorites?
* And when we punch through the firewall for the propeller cable, where should the cable go?
* Anything else I've forgotten to ask about?

Thanks!

Ed
 
You need to find someone with the special tool who knows what they are doing to remove the rear prop shaft oil plug (the one with a hole) and replace it with one without hole.

If you have never seen this done or do not have the special tool, do not attempt doing the job as you can easily damage the internal oil tube.

Carl
 
Ed,
Look for pieces of drawing OP-26 in the dog poop....
PM your e-mail address to me and I can send a .tif scan of rev 2 (2003) which I received around 2010.

It shows the same rod end bearing being used for mixture, throttle and prop control.
It is called "CT Bearing MW-3M" in the Vans part numbering system.
Sorry, I am not in the right place to look at one directly to see if there is a manufacturer's number on it.

*EDIT*
On rereading Ed's post, I realize I do not have the complete set of requested documents handy. I do have the OP-26 which I will send later today. This simply shows the hardware spec'ed by Vans for the job. I do NOT have the 2 page document for bracket mounting he mentions in an electronic form and my binder that may have it is 250 miles from me.
 
Last edited:
Ed-which governor are you using? If the PCU5000, I have some suggestions for the cable installation. One involves reversing and reinforcing the bend at the cable support end of the Van’s install bracket, resulting in a much more elegant and smooth-operating cable routing. Will take some photos next time I’m at airport.

Also, I got the smoothest operation by penetrating the cable through the firewall fairly high up, level with the top of the governor, and letting it do a gentle, full 270° loop to the left forward of the firewall to lend up pointing straight at the actuator arm on the governor. An S-series stainless steel split-eyeball from Aircraft Spruce worked very well for firewall penetration. I believe I used one with .25” I.D., but they are available for any cable diameter. -Otis
I did find this photo. Note reverse bending of bracket provided much better alignment of cable to gov. Arm. Concerned about it cracking, I added aluminum angle brace. Works very smoothly and allows full stop to stop travel of governor arm:
2v2Ew4Wo5xBELK5.jpg
 
Last edited:
Carl Froehlich said:
You need to find someone with the special tool who knows what they are doing to remove the rear prop shaft oil plug (the one with a hole) and replace it with one without hole.

If you have never seen this done or do not have the special tool, do not attempt doing the job as you can easily damage the internal oil tube.

Carl
Click to expand...

I believe that some, maybe all, rear plugs with holes have the hole threaded so you can simply screw in a plug. (Some that have been converted TO fixed pitch may have a pierced rear plug and would require removal and replacemend). Mine had no rear plug at all so I inserted a new solid one. Btw- this is not an expansion plug like the one Ed will be removing at the front of the crankshaft. It is an interference fit plug with a wide flange that goes in with the flange facing toward the front of the engine. See P.2 below.
- Otis
2v2JtZHc5xBELK5.png

2v2JtZHLnxBELK5.png
 
Carl Froehlich said:
You need to find someone with the special tool who knows what they are doing to remove the rear prop shaft oil plug (the one with a hole) and replace it with one without hole.

If you have never seen this done or do not have the special tool, do not attempt doing the job as you can easily damage the internal oil tube.

Carl
Click to expand...


Take this advice. Here is what i found on my crankshat after pulling the front plug out. Some idiot took the rear plug out with a screwdriver and damaged the rod bearing oil tube. It is by the grace of God that this engine did not seize the #1 rod over the years. The entire rebuild of the engine has cost me $19k.

61-D87-DC4-4773-495-E-A5-D8-96-E3842-AAA2-B.jpg
 
Hartstoc said:
Ed-which governor are you using? If the PCU5000, I have some suggestions for the cable installation. One involves reversing and reinforcing the bend at the cable support end of the Van?s install bracket, resulting in a much more elegant and smooth-operating cable routing. Will take some photos next time I?m at airport.

Also, I got the smoothest operation by penetrating the cable through the firewall fairly high up, level with the top of the governor, and letting it do a gentle, full 270? loop to the left forward of the firewall to lend up pointing straight at the actuator arm on the governor. An S-series stainless steel split-eyeball from Aircraft Spruce worked very well for firewall penetration. I believe I used one with .25? I.D., but they are available for any cable diameter. -Otis
I did find this photo. Note reverse bending of bracket provided much better alignment of cable to gov. Arm. Concerned about it cracking, I added aluminum angle brace. Works very smoothly and allows full stop to stop travel of governor arm:



2v2Ew4Wo5xBELK5.jpg
Click to expand...
This is exactly what I did when installing a new Hartzell Gov and it improved the cable movement immensely. Highly recommend following Hartstoc's advice
 
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