I was under the impression that skybolts were adjustable meaning that the inner part of the receptacle could move around a little after riveting until you had them right where you wanted them then lock them in place.
With either fixed or floating receptacles, the core screws in and out for depth adjustment. There is no lateral adjustment which can be locked after installation.
I riveted in my first receptacle and the shop head on the rivet holds the inner part of the receptacle tight.
No reason to be concerned if the location is accurate.
Opinions vary, but I would limit floating receptacles to locations at the corners, where when sliding the cowl on and off, the pin must enter the receptacle at an angle. The floating receptacle allows the pin to slip in easier.
I would also recommend thickening the edge of the cowl. Mine has multiple plies of glass tape there and still bows outward between fasteners when I close down the cowl exit and raise internal pressure. This might be a good place to use a few plies of carbon tape (for high stiffness) under one ply of glass tape (to isolate the carbon from the mount flange). Take a look at the outer surfaces of the cowl and the adjoining sheet metal. Shim the mount flange as needed to make them flush with each other.
Internal air pressure ranges from near zero to around 120 lbs per square foot, and in response, the cowl tries to assume a round shape. We have evenly spaced fasteners all around, except at the outlet. The result is high stress at the last fastener (or the the end of a hinge if you so choose). Save yourself some trouble later; reinforce everything in that area. I found it necessary to add a buttress at each Skybolt. Without them, the rivets were overstressed at the flange attachment.
Cowl edge thickness buildup:
It wasn't quite stiff enough:
Buttress supports for the lower Skybolts. Ignore the foam work. I was building a duct.