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  #11  
Old 03-04-2010, 07:19 AM
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gblwy gblwy is offline
 
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I only started filing because the plans say you can, but I was concerned about the amount of material I would have to remove - that's why I stopped.

I have looked at Section 14-02. I'm not sure what I am looking for here. If I had put the stub spars on upside down the profile of the tab would look completely different. These seem OK. I also checked the front receptacles to ensure I did not mount these upside down - again these look OK. I cannot see how to check the rear receptacles. And the rear spar cannot be upside down, fortunately ;-)

I cannot see how I could have done anything wrong with the rollers. In any case the spar hole seems to line up vertically with the fuselage hole.

Keith - now worried!
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  #12  
Old 03-04-2010, 07:28 AM
jte65 jte65 is offline
 
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Location: Avon, Indiana
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Default something is not right

I agree with Larry- something is not right. When I have installed mine, I find they sometimes need a bit of help in either the forward or aft direction in getting started in the slot but once they are in, they go easily and there was certainly no discrepancy in the vertical plane. The main spar really sets the incidence and the stub spars provide additional support to prevent twisting (as Larry mentioned). However, I don't recall seeing anyone else encounter a problem where they don't line up. Agree that a call to Van's is warranted. And I would be concerned if any significant amount of material has been removed such that one will no longer fill the receptacle.
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  #13  
Old 03-04-2010, 07:43 AM
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gblwy gblwy is offline
 
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Default Thanks

Thanks, guys for your help.

I thought the spar rolled on the larger diameter half of the roller, not the smaller diameter half. Makes sense now. So I need to reverse the rollers. That should do the trick.

I'll also check with Vans to see what they have to say about the material removed from the tab. I'd hate to have to take a wing to pieces.

Cheers...Keith
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  #14  
Old 03-04-2010, 11:54 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geico266 View Post
Keith, I cannot stress enough, IMHO, that no material should have been removed at this point. Doing so will not allow the front & rear spar to fit properly into their sockets. If they don't fit tight the wing can twist in flight.

Can you take pictures & post them?

Have you double checked the installation of the roller bushing?

This would be a good time to call Vans.
I strongly agree.
This is a rather important structural load connection.
My guess is that something is wrong with part assembly...bottom line, you should not need to remove material and if you do it could be detrimental.
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  #15  
Old 03-04-2010, 01:21 PM
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gblwy gblwy is offline
 
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Default One step forward, two steps backward

Ken Scott confirmed what I had been thinking - replacement parts required.

Now on order. Still kicking myself, but thinking rationally about it, it will probably just add another three or four days to the build. I am nervous about drilling out several hundred rivets with the attendant risk of causing further damage...

Happy days...Keith
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  #16  
Old 03-04-2010, 01:50 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gblwy View Post
Ken Scott confirmed what I had been thinking - replacement parts required.

Now on order. Still kicking myself, but thinking rationally about it, it will probably just add another three or four days to the build. I am nervous about drilling out several hundred rivets with the attendant risk of causing further damage...

Happy days...Keith
The key is to first use a 1/16" diam. pin punch and small hammer to drive the steel stem out of the center of the rivet. You can then safely drill right through the rivet with an 1/8" drill bit.
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  #17  
Old 03-04-2010, 06:05 PM
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Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gblwy View Post
Ken Scott confirmed what I had been thinking - replacement parts required.

Now on order. Still kicking myself, but thinking rationally about it, it will probably just add another three or four days to the build. I am nervous about drilling out several hundred rivets with the attendant risk of causing further damage...

Happy days...Keith
We all make mistakes. I am just glad you posted the problem and we caught it now, rather than try to fly with it like that.

Glad I could help.
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  #18  
Old 03-04-2010, 06:12 PM
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Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
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Marty & I were talking about a loosing fitting wing after the get the wings in place. If you grab the end of the wing you can get it to "rock" fore & aft. This is before you put the seal on. Any movement in this area is not good, IMHO. We took a .020 shim and cut it to fit in the front or rear spar. This took up the extra space and took care of the "slop". The wings are now rock solid.

If you are building the wings do not remove a lot of material on the front and rear spars that fit into the sockets. Easy does it with material removal in this area.
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  #19  
Old 03-05-2010, 06:29 AM
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gblwy gblwy is offline
 
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Default Shim

Does the shim you made slide into the receptacle in the fuselage alongside the spar tab?

Keith
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  #20  
Old 03-05-2010, 07:14 AM
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Geico266 Geico266 is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gblwy View Post
Does the shim you made slide into the receptacle in the fuselage alongside the spar tab?

Keith
What I did was put them on the face of of the spar tab. They are about 1/4" wide x 4" long and I taped it to the face, or very inboard surface. That way it took up the slack for for and aft movement of the wing tip. This was to take up just a few thousands of an inch. In your case you have removed quite a bit of material and you'll need to replace the tabs.

If you can post some pictures it would really help.
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