Installing SB 18-02-02

[Tacco]

Starting this tomorrow, studying the instructions tonight.

What is the measurement on Figure 8 about center page ( “1/2”). Looks like an arrow is missing(?). Looks like it refers to distance of forward hole to be drilled in WD-1027..but from what reference point? Also, in drilling these holes through the horn(6 of them), The intent appears to be to drill into the spar cap as well, even though these holes (in the spar cap) will not be filled with a rivet. Only the horn and the doubler will be riveted. I assume this is because of the difficulty in avoiding drilling HS-1232 and WD-1027 separated from the spar and the necessity of keeping the HS-1232 doubler aligned.

Steve

[Jim T]

Originally Posted by Tacco

Starting this tomorrow, studying the instructions tonight.

What is the measurement on Figure 8 about center page ( “1/2”). Looks like an arrow is missing(?). Looks like it refers to distance of forward hole to be drilled in WD-1027..but from what reference point? Also, in drilling these holes through the horn(6 of them), The intent appears to be to drill into the spar cap as well, even though these holes (in the spar cap) will not be filled with a rivet. Only the horn and the doubler will be riveted. I assume this is because of the difficulty in avoiding drilling HS-1232 and WD-1027 separated from the spar and the necessity of keeping the HS-1232 doubler aligned.

Steve

Good question about the "1/2" Steve. The two measurements needed for locating the holes in WD-1207 are already on the drawing. It looks like your assumption about the spar cap is correct. I don't see why the WD-1207 Stabilator Horn can't be removed, marked and drilled on the drill press. Then remounted, the HS-01232 put in place, match drilled and clecoed. Then just drill through WD-1207 just enough to mark the location of the holes in HS-01232. Remove HS-01232 and drill it on the drill press. That way the Spar Cap doesn't need to be drilled into.

I'm ordering my SB-18-02-02 and SB-18-02-03 kits today so will be anxious to see how this goes for you.

Jim

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by Tacco

Starting this tomorrow, studying the instructions tonight.

What is the measurement on Figure 8 about center page ( “1/2”). Looks like an arrow is missing(?). Looks like it refers to distance of forward hole to be drilled in WD-1027..but from what reference point? Also, in drilling these holes through the horn(6 of them), The intent appears to be to drill into the spar cap as well, even though these holes (in the spar cap) will not be filled with a rivet. Only the horn and the doubler will be riveted. I assume this is because of the difficulty in avoiding drilling HS-1232 and WD-1027 separated from the spar and the necessity of keeping the HS-1232 doubler aligned.

Steve

It looks like one of the lead lines accidentally got deleted from the figure, and will be corrected.
The measurement reference is intended to be the edge of the flange of the HS-1202.
Even without that reference, there is enough info to properly place the holes because the center hole can be seen aligned with the center hole in the HS-01232, and the outer two holes are equal distant from the center hole with the distance between them specified.

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by Jim T

Good question about the "1/2" Steve. The two measurements needed for locating the holes in WD-1207 are already on the drawing. It looks like your assumption about the spar cap is correct. I don't see why the WD-1207 Stabilator Horn can't be removed, marked and drilled on the drill press. Then remounted, the HS-01232 put in place, match drilled and clecoed. Then just drill through WD-1207 just enough to mark the location of the holes in HS-01232. Remove HS-01232 and drill it on the drill press. That way the Spar Cap doesn't need to be drilled into.

I'm ordering my SB-18-02-02 and SB-18-02-03 kits today so will be anxious to see how this goes for you.

Jim

There is no structural concern about having the 6 unused holes in the top web of the spar box, but the process you described would be fine also....
as long as all 6 holes remain accurately aligned.
Even one poor fitting hole will degrade the benefits attained by the doubler.

[Jim T]

Thanks for the clarification Scott.

Jim

[Azjulian]

when you remove the stabilator for this SB do you need to loosen the barrel lock on the cables to remove an replace or can you maintain that adjustment and confirm tension post install ? wondering if I need to order new barrel locking clips

[rvbuilder2002]

Originally Posted by Azjulian

when you remove the stabilator for this SB do you need to loosen the barrel lock on the cables to remove an replace or can you maintain that adjustment and confirm tension post install ? wondering if I need to order new barrel locking clips

It is possible to do the installation without loosening the cable tension but many people may find it easiest to first relieve the cable tension so they should also get new lock clips.

[Tacco]

Thanks everyone. Doesn’t seem all that hard. Will let you know how it goes.

[Azjulian]

its not hard to install the stabilator if you are able to rest it on a surface that brings the hinges in line with the tail section. otherwise installing the washers is very tricky

[Piper J3]

Does anyone know the P/N for the barrel locking clips?