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Old 02-28-2017, 08:11 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 8,213

Originally Posted by PilotBrent View Post
First is the magnetic plug which was last removed about 120 hours ago. (change oil about every 35-40 hours with minimal leaded fuel use) I confess that I'm lazy and don't remove the magnetic plug at every oil change.
Rotax only recommends that the magnetic plug be inspected at every 100 Hr inspection (it is on the check list).
Any opinions expressed in this message are my own and not necessarily those of my employer.

Scott McDaniels
Hubbard, Oregon
RV-6A (aka "Junkyard Special ")
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Old 03-13-2017, 09:06 AM
waterboy2110 waterboy2110 is offline
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: SF Bay Area
Posts: 247

As others have said in this thread - purging the systems _anytime_ the system is open is what Rotax requires. It's no big deal and should be in the installation manual available from Rotax to download. The big concern is having the lifters bleed down.

I also just finished the maintenance class and cleaning the tank was _not_ recommended. The analogy used was that no one would pull the sump off a lycon or conti to do an oil change.

The clutch in the prop gear housing is what's going to get really leaded up anyway and there's no way short of rebuilding the gearbox to get the lead out - which is why it has a shorter service interval when running avgas more than 30% of the time.
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A&P/IA Rotax iRMT 9 Series Maintenance
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Old 03-13-2017, 08:17 PM
Jolly Jolly is offline
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 51

I went right to the Rotax expert for this question.

You are supposed to check the magnetic oil plug every oil change per Rotax ASB-912-051.
You don't "PURGE" and engine at the oil change, you "VENT" it. The oil purge is only done when you dump the oil out of the oil hoses, oil cooler or like when the Rotax 5 year hose change is performed. This requires the inlet hose to the tank to come off, that port on the tank to be blocked and air pressure applied to the tank and then the prop rotated to "RE-FILL" the entire oil system, remove air and make sure the tappets have oil..

When you do an oil change all you do is vent the system. It just helps prefill the oil filter and remove some air back to the tank which is the only engine vent to the atmosphere.

The manual says to clean the oil tank every 200 hrs. If you use all 100LL this is important. Not so much so if all you use is 91 oct. Lead accumulates at the bottom of the tank and around the bottom of the screen. There is no good reason not to clean a tank and that comes right from Rotax. When I questioned this this is the video they sent me to watch. They told me using the wrong oil will cause this mess and running too long an extended oil change interval.

If all you do is remove the top two oil fittings on top of the tank and do not let them hang and lose any oil then all you have to do is replace it, fill it and do a standard oil change "VENTING". The reason told to me is that when you open the bottom oil tank drain all the oil up to and including those two fittings drain out anyway and none comes from the hoses. I just use a plug in the hose ends while I clean the tank and I haven't lost more than a drop of oil.

The gearbox does not get rebuilt at the 600 hr. mark from using 100LL more than 30% of the time. They told me that if you use 100LL a lot then usually by 800 hours the clutch is pretty clogged and even though we can't tell the difference it probably would function properly from all the lead. The overload clutch comes out and sent to a service center and it gets disassembled and cleaned due to lead fouling. The other parts are washed off, but should be fine. I was told when they re-assemble it they usually replace the bellville washers and reshim to its proper spec.
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:31 AM
Piper J3's Avatar
Piper J3 Piper J3 is offline
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Hinckley, Ohio
Posts: 1,428

For new engine first start, or when opening / replacing oil hose hoses – follow Rotax/Vans instructions.

For oil change…
  • Warm engine
  • Remove cowling
  • Burb engine several times to get all oil from crankcase
  • From this point on – DO NOT TURN ENGINE
  • Drain oil from tank
  • Remove / replace oil filter (you can pre-oil filter – I don’t)
  • Remove / inspect gearbox magnet plug
  • Pour in 3 liters Aeroshell Oil Sport Plus 4
  • Engine is ready to start – monitor oil pressure
Jim Stricker
Hinckley, Ohio (1OA2)
EAA #499867
PPL/ASEL 1970 - Sport Pilot since 2007
80 hrs Flying Aeronca Chief 11AC N86203
1130 hrs Flying 46 Piper J-3 Cub N6841H
RV-12 E-LSA #120058 AWC July 2012 N633CM
RV-12 Bought Flying Oct 2015 with 48TT - Hobbs now 459

LSRM-A Certificate 2016
Special Thanks... EJ Trucks - Crew Chief A-4 Skyhawk
MJ Stricker (Father & CFI) - 1st Lt. Captain B-17H
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