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Fiberglassing windscreen fairing

Blain

Blain

Well Known Member
I'm masked ,sanded and about ready to start the layup. But I'm looking at the gap between the canopy and windscreen. I've got it to about 3 milimeters. If I bridge it with cloth I know some resin will seep in between. Thinking about pushing some modeling clay in there to bridge the gap.

How have others done this?
 
Gap

Blain said:
I'm masked ,sanded and about ready to start the layup. But I'm looking at the gap between the canopy and windscreen. I've got it to about 3 milimeters. If I bridge it with cloth I know some resin will seep in between. Thinking about pushing some modeling clay in there to bridge the gap.

How have others done this?
Click to expand...

I rolled up some threads of oil based modeling clay that I used to fill the canopy/windscreen gap to prevent resin from dripping through.

Skylor
RV-8
 
skylor said:
I rolled up some threads of oil based modeling clay that I used to fill the canopy/windscreen gap to prevent resin from dripping through.

Skylor
RV-8
Click to expand...

Looks like the direction to go unless I see some earth shattering revelation. No modeling clay in the house. Have been searching receipes.
 
I used micro, flox and cabosil all together, about two thirds micro, one third flox to give it strength, and enough cabosil so the mixture was not runny.

While the filler is still "wet", go ahead and do the glass layup------all ten or whatever number of plies are called out.

You can also mix in some black coloring so the inside looks better when you are done. You can come by and get the black coloring, I have a couple lifetimes worth.
 
Mike S said:
I used micro, flox and cabosil all together, about two thirds micro, one third flox to give it strength, and enough cabosil so the mixture was not runny.

While the filler is still "wet", go ahead and do the glass layup------all ten or whatever number of plies are called out.

You can also mix in some black coloring so the inside looks better when you are done. You can come by and get the black coloring, I have a couple lifetimes worth.
Click to expand...

How did you bridge the gap without glueing both halfs together?

BTW, if you need help with the pants the 'glass shop is open.....
 
Blain said:
How did you bridge the gap without glueing both halfs together?
Click to expand...

Both halves---??------------OOPS, guess I did not read the first post close enough.

I was talking about the fairing where the bottom of the windscreen meets the top of the fuse.

Are you asking for where the slider joins the rear of the windscreen??

I have not done that particular job, but I would probably use packaging tape to cover the slider portion, couple overlapping layers, and then glass over far enough to form a lip. Pretty hard to offer help without seeing what you are working with------------- what do the instructions say to do???

Get Doug DeLapp to come over and help???

I will be getting going on the wheel pants on Monday, if you want to come over and see what you are going to be getting into.
 
Last edited:
Mike S said:
Both halves---??------------OOPS, guess I did not read the first post close enough.

I was talking about the fairing where the bottom of the windscreen meets the top of the fuse.

Are you asking for where the slider joins the rear of the windscreen??

I have not done that particular job, but I would probably use packaging tape to cover the slider portion, couple overlapping layers, and then glass over far enough to form a lip. Pretty hard to offer help without seeing what you are working with------------- what do the instructions say to do???

Get Doug DeLapp to come over and help???

I will be getting going on the wheel pants on Monday, if you want to come over and see what you are going to be getting into.
Click to expand...

Fiberglass happening tomorrow. Probably packing clay in the gap. No suggestions in Vans instructions. Doug is busy pounding nails;)
 
AJ, good write up, Blain would do well to follow it.

Little tip---------once you have it cured, getting the rear slider portion free is easy if you use a blow gun to force air into the release area. Your using a thin ruler did the job, but once the ruler gets an opening, try hitting that with a blast of air.
 
Thanks Mike

Thanks Mike

I did actually use the blow gun as well, I sometimes miss things in my posts, but yes that worked a treat as well.

The hardest job is getting started.

Enjoy
 
Mike S said:
AJ, good write up, Blain would do well to follow it.

Little tip---------once you have it cured, getting the rear slider portion free is easy if you use a blow gun to force air into the release area. Your using a thin ruler did the job, but once the ruler gets an opening, try hitting that with a blast of air.
Click to expand...

Good plan. Haven't heard that one before. I did run a rope out of the tail cone.

Fiberglass mania today. Mixed up some homemade playdough to fill the gap. (Colored red) Won't know how it worked until I seperate the two.

 
Blain, looks good.

IMAG1316.jpg
 
Separated.
Clay did a good job of keeping the resin where it belonged. Rope was needed to "persuade" it to break loose.
 
My last project was a resto-mod Corvette. Go so tired of fiberglass I decided to build an aluminum aircraft.........:eek:
 
Recommend not putting it on

Left it off, used high quality auto weather stripping to fill the small gap between the steel tubes and it's air/water tight. No noise and nothing to accidently lean on and break off.
 
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