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Fire Sleeve

bomber_JB

Active Member
Does anyone know how fuel hose suppliers finish the ends of fire sleeve?

Vans fuel hoses like the VA-139 have a fire sleeve that's banded. The fire sleeve it's self appears to have been dipped in something that looks like it is impervious to oil and keeps it from fraying. Does anyone know how they finish the ends?

Does anyone know what the firesleeve material is on Van's fuel hoses? It does not appear to be the Eaton fire sleeve (orange) with fuzzy fiberglass inside.

I want to make some fuel lines using the Eaton fire sleeve material (orange) but I'd like to finish the ends with some thing more than just the 1/4" bands. Heat shrink? Silicone tape? Ideas?

Thanks

Jerry
 
In order to have the fire resistance rating the Firesleeve must be banded at both ends. I have seen people use multiple wraps of lock wire instead of the clamp. Not sure if this is an approved method. American Firesleeve sells dip, paste and tape for sealing/wrapping the ends to make a better finish.
 
As they have been mentioned by Carl and Al, SS bands and a band tool (which you can purchase from the auto parts store) will serve your purpose. The pro's use the dip like this one https://abthermal.com/firesleeve-end-dip-paste-liquid-silicone-rubber-sealant.html. It is more expensive for smaller our one offs like our hoses. As Carl mentioned the High temp RTV (again from the auto parts store) does the job. It has for many builders and for many years. I actually was doing that this morning on my FW!

Here's what the ends look like from Tom at TS Flightline.
WzM3cMXBzSU5sZcBz9gLUxZ3s4F-QjHa4-horkfmP3GDXUP93H5qxEdGaZ0BgJuMU8SggGWlKcLFHx5IRkoAT1YmE5I48OKtObitr0-exhw-GVTHr80oBiAxwgeFzp6u9e9P9l0E4uyz_Zx6L_y9sYd7hOoiA3TBu7Rwjy2B_uC2mXbajOTJ763EgqQfz6DAqsY42eizT4ZaBam8YFHKE-jfOWFeysiMxbSPbPQzkNA4ITaT5N9bKJaZeqh5eeAyZ5oZigslXZebT8RDYQhBVPkb_udf1fNDIR4HhAWYwNO_qwXOLebQxdws6rJBwkjXAYq2tYOTqR9dWTspVA4FCjXqhkzviRLaKE6Ql3MWBI2VG24xoI1i3VVhIcRr-L0xhuhrVvNlhfls5uPsVF9hTH0qKQFYFd6WqttNiIfVvJ55hUgYhjHTx7CKHwZ73ExKduCBZjlwO95x7qGupwyy8hieVoEDtiKIHAFgdlFpQxgmwZhuGsQlEZjvvbFnuuzsM6BohHUDkSqDTgrvYL2uK6FWmQCfAC1GDTHgZpyfb1wzhfaec5-HKXTE-c3AbqDuCQ388sl4ze6fXDUa0nGMOn5u1d3chzEYecCCWhjunzCOZLnfylDmKylEnArIR8AGCcnhchLj_n5zL-NG117qxoCyvqeJ9og5LsZrOaEHlBswKyB1h9wZRq06UfxKOmYWQ-ND9pHmjuWv870qrOj74HyYDMqHmsDNkqDsiM70rAU43Uw=w529-h939-no


Here's how I am doing the firewall pass through firesleeving.
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UflYqdtoaMqcEeaQLyuizhuGNm0gV12YIkWWexpKeNT0YXtjSXCNXatFQGEIIWHKe3ns5h8YtE1QsPVS9QvP6bVgW47W9MZ380-lJtGGE_tYxRLkkpHTVyAVp9OrL3zNYKzoJQZf6LC38PyeXOsaJmt5ToQsbRy1PGEpNXEQfAqCUHdgDrpNFwLzQ8AHB3S8AQLRypUgWzTLG2EdTvDe7maFUa9k3ahjSHpaTFDXA6ck2_wDNqwnowAyZ_0TYRPWKuj-4stz0rUiR2en0oVQMKGuFzkkp7Vr2aqT5V1hKUzdZIergeDJ6SNOWt7lWg8FUoZPR5_TOopIYqTmJyFHuI4cGdCTLGEqmfYAFw3ytELwE1TZAbrzThkBicI6Z4WVMjfN-BRphe4JAJuXc4a0rDkVNpozAShi6mcxvPo4NOQtsmu5oT3ygeAw9sqgx9SC-uAapaEHv9-ojcBSj2U87jShectQO1M13nV2X0qyAnwXRMJWYG3ZeVSEu8QIHscuO5ElX6XZkfHVCz7zxTk2BDtdGiwqFGpMUufF4MmhLRAHCR-rDTp0fbkJU0eavXIcujVgMeZEAaVulwu3IMo4aAhfxsnuNuVrGt5d-Kn1b-BST6JfkEk1yPKfDWUK2JI14kgkf0w2zJpEBSEoZHM1w5o5FWmlefGdPMw0SHdd6ZE6eDht1-a5PYREO-VqebnCz2yVWXHkdRDDCRer6SCCbpWoQ-9sglsjCqr067MmfzM1z1o=w529-h939-no

087EkHqmOJih7XkhqhgNvV9gjF3LLwdVsxIHsxpi_VOHIbSymsEfbJbE9GG257i_88lBfSMP08lObhe7FhPJ0aLOkvyq-bKYaiZJV6t4nATy6lZGCYgmd2POwB6fBvApDyFK1j_5ztOBf8b9Bjz4tl9Y7Pc1MXjduxKGEACDKiuXgwRJz42dFBckSuSZp-3dejD3BiTnDLJo2NCmdxTQL3rZ2LEeQY1KJ_eEAub0W74nxA6lPOoV7kE_7S1KJd400EUwc4kBmnMmrXeq0rJgEhXZUC7x80ywoG6IpG6g6zZmeM5-IOlqH7rvTBM_c6E0vVuXKOL3iuOaRkQMw74UVFinKAWTxZK08ovH8hYYUbM0UHQbafVwJbibNzU62fqTeA45LiRHBkacHz42RUD7Dc-LssDcg3pOP_3Ik925kU7CrzsfBSAKKNJ8KK1n3P8rc5f70OA3ThPDw_TGQqV-64uyV_l5P3deFGhwXDZQ8GdcBLGtdElEIEnuB594RR2thssGN3WBAIQTbjJgnyHrJKQhoOeLaUP0uCiEYzqDNFNFHzebvSJNWtPxgCbcGn9Yd9tSOftd4BkYfF5wsGX2Nu-fOoe4TV4D0WvXxut0CwnflK58JNYChr2Xw9vp0p6Eu90wEVc7SEtWJEqgXA69T737uFZgcgSGqcI0-7KpkzSjbg7jT4a-YuXDW75ufZ3J1OXmGFFDaZEuzZPWKxKqiauDsmwwSKJ-FxlkEoCwC6oxOqk=w529-h939-no
 
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Firesleeve end dip: A scientific inquiry

Oldie, but relevant and worth recycling.

Excerpt: Like many builders, I can't justify paying the outrageous prices that are commanded for aviation-grade certified firesleeve end dip (currently up to $118 a quart). But, you can't just leave the cut ends of the firesleeve hanging out to soak up oil and moisture. The two low-budget alternative end treatments I've heard of are Plasti-Dip (that non-slip stuff you dip your screwdriver handles in) and plain old RTV. In the spirit of scientific inquiry, I obtained a quantity of each and prepared two sample pieces of firesleeve, one treated with Plasti-Dip and one with RTV.

Link to thread:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=29225
 
End dip

If you only have a couple ends to do try mixing some red hi temp silicone with a little mek to make firesleeve dip.

Don Broussard
RV9 Rebuild in Progress
57 Pacer
 
If you only have a couple ends to do try mixing some red hi temp silicone with a little mek to make firesleeve dip.

I think I remember an old post saying to mix RTV with some toluene to make your own dip. Haven?t tried MEK. Either or both are worth a try, although I haven?t really had any problem with my undipped hose ends absorbing any oil or other fluids. I do have hose clamps around them to get a good seal.

Erich
 
Jerry, We seal the end of the hose with high temp RTV. Because most hoses we ship are built to order and not done 50 at a time per part number, we find that dipping the end of the firesleeve and giving it sufficient time to cure holds things up. You'll also notice that those that are end dipped usually are a slightly larger ID sleeve than we use. The manufacturer slides it on after the hose ends are installed. We use a smaller ID firesleeve---it fits the hose tighter. WE also install it BEFORE we crimp the hose ends. Once pressure tested, the sleeve is sealed. WE do this by running a heavy bead of RTV around the end of the sleeve, but also around the base of the crimp collar. Once the sleeve is set into position, this seals the inside of the sleeve to the collar, and the end of the sleeve around the collar. Banded with a stainless band.
Carlos' pic it typical.

Tom
 
uh Plasti-dip? Really? I think Matt Burch test that way back in 2008. Not acceptable. And YES you can get High Temp Red RTV rather inexpensively.
And as Don said, alittle MEK mixed is fine. We use it straight out of the tubes, and let it cure.
Yes American Firesleeve DOES have it in little jars. It would take ALOT of hoses to use the all the contents of that little jar. ( Ask me how I know). And once its exposed to room temperature, whats left in the jar will set up, no matter how much MEK you use. WE found that with our process, RTV in the tubes works very well.

Tom
 
You can thin high temp rtv with Naptha or wick type lighter fluid such as Ronsons. I have used this method with good results. MEK, and Acetone will not thin rtv in my experience.
 
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