Brake Caliper

As mentioned in another post, I had a major issue with my right brake during taxy testing. One pad was completely missing and about 1/3rd of the other had broken off. Can only think that they got contaminated with something during the long wait. Left brake is perfect.

Upshot was that the brake severely overheated, the O-ring in the caliper melted and fluid was leaking out - so hot, it deformed the tyre I think I was extremely lucky to get away without a brake fire. Disc is also scored and needs replacing.

So new tyre and disc are easy - they have them at VANS. However, the caliper is a bit more difficult. Everyone seems to offer the complete 2x wheel assembly. It's the weekend but I will try VANS next week to see if they can supply just the caliper. In the meantime, anyone any idea where I can get one - Grove part No 36-2M?

Or maybe someone who has upgraded would like to sell the parts?

Direct from Grove, if not from VANS

Brake stick

We had the same ongoing problem here with 3344N, first we thought it was the pedals secured to tight causing the Matco Master cyl to not release, That wasn't it!, we thought maybe the master Cyl need rebuilding but we only had 350hr on the the 10??? MMMMMMMM???? maybe the wheel Calipers??? so we replaced the "O" rings they were bad from overheating. Nope that didn't do it either. Brakes still dragging. However if we grabbed the brake pedals and pulled back they would not drag anymore so we then figured it was the Matco Master Cylinders, so we ordered new kits , Rebuilt all 4 but noticed the springs inside were what we thought weak and the new ones sent from Matco didn't seem all that strong either. So our thought was maybe those springs that also act as return springs are just not strong enough. Reassembled the whole system , bleed it and we STILL had the same problem??? We concluded that the Matco Master Cylinders just don't have the return force needed to release the wheel calipers.
Since we are lucky enough to live close to Grove , we drove down, bought 4 new Master Cylinders and WHOOOO HOOOO problem solved!!! we also had the issue on a RV8 a few years back and just added outside springs over the Matco shafts, that seemed to work also. we are now having it on a RV12 with the Matco's, Not sure whats happening there at Matco but in my opinion they need to straighten the internal spring.

Sticking Brakes oops

i meant Stiffer springs.

Paul,
I used one continuous long bolt for the pivot shaft of the brake pedal. I found that periodically the pedal would bind using the "two bolt" axle. I also added a spring around the shaft of each brake cylinder to force the brake cylinder to return. The internal spring just is not enough force in my opinion.

Thanks for the advice but I don't believe the brake was stuck on. I think it was either a manufacturing fault or (more likely) I accidentally contaminated the pad with something during the years of it sitting on the wheel whilst completing the build.

What I was after was if anyone knew where I could obtain just a new caliper rather than the complete wheel set ($1000+!!). Waiting to hear back from VANS and/or Grove.

Paul, while you are at it, change to Viton orings and 83282 brake fluid. A lot of us did. Both of those are rated for much higher temps.
How fast were you taxiing? It's not uncommon to burn brakes/tires up on high-speed taxi testing.

I did do a high speed run but I was lightweight and put the brakes on at about 50kts. The left brake shows absolutely no sign of distress. Whilst the brake may have got hot, it shouldn't have shed one lining totally and have a large chunk of the other one break off!

In any case, Grove have got back to me and said they can supply the caliper direct.

Thanks for the input.

"Booster" Springs on the Master Cylinders

Paul:
I wouldn't ignore the suggestion of added springs. This is a common problem on all the smaller RVs as well and the few pennies to add springs helps to ensure you won't have this problem in the future. Also, the suggestion of going with a single pivot bolt (I really don't know the setup in the RV10) has been undertaken by many of us as well. If you've got to fix it regardless, why not do a couple of additional things that can only help. You're probable looking at $20 and a couple of hours, at most.
Good luck.
Terry, CFI
RV9A N323TP

Thanks. Away down-route at the moment so can't visualize it but will have a look when I am back at the hangar.

As for "$20 and a couple of hours", things aren't quite that simple in the UK. Modifying the braking system in this manner would require a mod approval........

I am back in UK preparing for first flight. I got the new caliper direct from grove and new disc and spare pads from VANS.

Caliper fits fine. The disc and pads from VANS are wrong The disc has the wrong size holes (but in the right place). They could be drilled out but the real problem is that the dish is not deep enough to accept the caliper. Also, the pads are the right shape/size but the rivet holes are slightly out of position.

I note that the disc is Cleveland whereas my caliper and wheel are Grove - did VANS change suppliers?

I was going to change the disc as a precaution as it was slightly scored. On further inspection, I have decided it is actually serviceable and can be refitted. The pads were also a precaution in case of further disaster so hopefully will not be needed. However, the best part of $200 and not so easy/cheap to return from overseas