RV-3 Cowling Modification

I am about to add an RV-4 "snout" to my RV-3 since I am adding a "FAB" intake system where there was none before. As such can some of you folks who have "gone before", give me a general idea of any pitfalls to avoid / best practices to make this happen. My first question in looking at this is wondering if it's best to locate the scoop first and then work on the FAB length, or set up the FAB first and then adjust the scoop to it. My guess is that installing the scoop first is the way to go and then trim the FAB to marry up to it, etc...

Thanks for your suggestions as always!

Doug
RV-3 restoration

https://www.dropbox.com/s/35f42z49p3rxt9q/Cowling.jpg

Same Thing on a -4 (a long time ago)

FWIW -

I did the same thing on my -4 back (flying) in the early 1990's when
Van came out with the FAB to replace the original non-filtered air box. Granted, my -4 was already flying, but I chose to mount the new airbox first and then locate the new "snout". I found it was much easier to fit the cowl mod around the airbox rather than the other way around. If you fit the new fiberglass first, then you have to position the airbox in relation to the cowl, which has to be installed for the fit up - with the cowl in place it is much harder to work inside it to posit the airbox. With the airbox installed first, you can begin to slowly open up the area necessary to fit the new snorkel without the difficulties associated with the cowling being done and trying to work inside the confined space.

Just my 2 cents worth.

HFS

cowling

Sent you a P M
Have pictures