best sequence for sealing tank ribs?

I'm getting close to building wing tanks now and have done alot of thinking on the sequence to use. Anybody have a "this worked great" way of doing them? I'm only talking about the ribs. I don't want to put a bead of proseal down and then smear it all over when putting the ribs in place and trying to line up the holes. The ribs are so tight in the skin, seems impossible to do without smearing the proseal all over. I thought about doing the top of the ribs first and riveting them in place then try to proseal the bottom a few days later and doing them. Anybody try this approach? If there's someone out there with a good idea, I'd appreciate some feedback. Also, is a jig worth building? I never made one for the leading edge and had no problems getting the ribs in place but seems that the tank ribs are a tighter fit.

I gooped them up and inserted them. Not that much gets smeared off. I do highly recommend the jig!
This tank building is way overrated in the pain department. Just take your time, have everything ready, use allot of gloves and most of all do not rush it. Do a little at a time and walk away.

Building the tanks

I smeared proseal on both upper and lower surfaces of skin and rib, and then slid the rib in place (skin in a jig). The proseal actually acts as a lubricant. The parts will be dimpled at this point, so they won't just slide into place, but the dimples help get things aligned.
You are going to smear the proseal around a bit. The term 'neat proseal' is an oxymoron. You can always put some masking tape on either side of the rib (I suggest about 1/2" away) for a cleaner looking result.
After riveting, don't forget to smear proseal over all of the rivets on the inside, and down both sides of the rib. Neatness is not essential, but assuring no leaks is
The jig is essential IMHO. The tank skins are much thicker and getting the ribs in place and the holes lined up is not an easy task. Getting the ribs in the proper position without a jig would be extremely difficult.
Regarding order: I started with the middle ribs and worked my way out to get the best possible access.
I don't see any advantage in doing one surface first and the other one later. In fact I'd say it would be far more difficult to seal the second surface.
Have fun!

I feel your pain....

Actually, its not that bad if you keep the goop contained a little. I used a jig as recommended with the other ribs clecoed in place. If you can get some 20 or 30cc syringes it makes the job much easier. Cut the ring (used to lock a needle on) off around the nozzle and put about 33 grams of mixed proseal in with a popsicle stick. Run a bead around the rib flange and a bead connecting the holes inside the skin. Smear it a little with a popsicle stick.

At this point grab the rear of the rib with one hand. Place the tips of your fingers of the other hand inside the flange nose. Steady you forearms on the skin as you lower the rib in place. It'll smear some as you near the bottom, but its not a problem.

Also, recommended are good latex gloves from the auto paint store. You can clean them with MEK as you work and don't have to change them so often.

Jerald King
-8
Tucson

Thanks, I'll build the jig. Already bought 3 large syringes for cattle. figured that would work well. Guess the only way to learn and find out how to do it is to just do it.

You might try using zip lock bags for applying proseal. They are cheap and you can control how much you apply by the size of the hole you cut out of one of the corners. The ribs go in much easier when they are greased up with proseal. Enjoy!

Just Jump IN! Beth and I used the Vans (by the book) method of proseal application this last week. Session one took over four hours just to do the stiffeners and filler flange. Session two took about three hours to do the second & third most outboard ribs. In session three we we able to do the next three ribs in only three hours. The learning curve is a little high, but once you figure it out it is not as bad as some might say. We are letting it cure for a day or two and will then install the capacitive sender parts and vent tube before squeezing the end ribs.