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DRDT-2 Table Height - Am I Missing Something?

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Pool Shark

Active Member
I'm getting geared-up for my RV build; tools just started arriving including the DRDT-2. I just finished assembling it and was about to start building the small table described in the accompanying plans, when two questions arose affecting how high the surface of the table should be:

1) I was thinking of using the female die on the bottom (to avoid marring the skins with the "tit" on the male die when sliding the skins around; I read somewhere on the Forum where another builder suggested this). My female die is 3/8" thick, while my male die is 1/4" thick; so which die I use will affected the height of the table I build. Is there any reason to use the male die on the bottom instead of the female die?

2) The table height dimension in the DRDT-2 plans will result in a table that is approximately 7/8" lower than the face of the lower die. This seems odd since I would have thought the goal was to have the carpeted work surface exactly level with the lower die face.

Am I missing something? :confused:
 
Pool Shark said:
Is there any reason to use the male die on the bottom instead of the female die?
Click to expand...

If you put the female die on the bottom, you will undoubtedly punch extra holes in your skins due to misalignment. If the skins set "over" the male die, this is no as likely to happen.
 
Mel said:
If you put the female die on the bottom, you will undoubtedly punch extra holes in your skins due to misalignment. If the skins set "over" the male die, this is no as likely to happen.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Mel; I figured that was the major drawback. While the tip of the male die is pretty spherical, is there any concern of marring the skin surfaces while sliding them around?

Also, as to my second question; shouldn't the table height match the face of the lower die? Or is there some reason to make it lower?
 
Pool Shark said:
1) I was thinking of using the female die on the bottom (to avoid marring the skins with the "tit" on the male die when sliding the skins around; I read somewhere on the Forum where another builder suggested this). My female die is 3/8" thick, while my male die is 1/4" thick; so which die I use will affected the height of the table I build. Is there any reason to use the male die on the bottom instead of the female die?

2) The table height dimension in the DRDT-2 plans will result in a table that is approximately 7/8" lower than the face of the lower die. This seems odd since I would have thought the goal was to have the carpeted work surface exactly level with the lower die face.
Click to expand...

RE: #1 - there will be times when you will use male on top, others when it works better to have male on bottom. Don't worry about/overthink it.

RE: #2 - the table top height just needs to be sort of close in height. Can't be higher, but whether it's flush with the die or 1/2-1" lower probably doesn't matter too much. Again, don't worry about/overthink it.

Finally, rather than build one big table that surrounds the C-frame/DRDT, I built two tables, one for each side. That way I could slide the tables around as necessary to provide support for the large skins.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
 
alpinelakespilot2000 said:
RE: #1 - there will be times when you will use male on top, others when it works better to have male on bottom. Don't worry about/overthink it.

RE: #2 - the table top height just needs to be sort of close in height. Can't be higher, but whether it's flush with the die or 1/2-1" lower probably doesn't matter too much. Again, don't worry about/overthink it.

Finally, rather than build one big table that surrounds the C-frame/DRDT, I built two tables, one for each side. That way I could slide the tables around as necessary to provide support for the large skins.

Hope this helps. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Yes, I was afraid I was overthinking it, but I'd hate to go to the trouble of building the table to a certain height and find out a different height would have worked better.

Thanks, Steve!
 
Yup. For sure. Id plan on using the mail die on the bottom MOST of the time. You'll kick yourself in the butt when you punch an extra hole if not.

Pool Shark,

The 2 separate tables is a nice idea. Thanks!
 
Try to build a shelf between 2 larger tables vs the factory plans version. The bigger the table the better, there are some large skins on the 14 and the little table in the plans is not a lot of help with these. Of course, if you have a helper all of the time you won't need the bigger table. I built the factory plans table and it works for many parts but is completely too small for larger pieces.

You will find some places need the male on top and others male on bottom just to fit inside some of the curved skins or spars, do what you need to do to make it work and don't over think things.
 
I'd say the height of the support surface depends on the carpet thickness. You want the support for the piece to be a bit below the die, so gravity helps hold it centered. And as noted, you must use extra care if you put the male die on top. This is especially true for large pieces.
 
I put leveling feet on the bottom so that I could move it up or down. Don't think that it was really necessary, but now I can raise or lower any of the feet independently. Oh, yeah, made two tables too.
 
Pool Shark said:
I'm getting geared-up for my RV build; tools just started arriving including the DRDT-2. I just finished assembling it and was about to start building the small table described in the accompanying plans, when two questions arose affecting how high the surface of the table should be:

1) I was thinking of using the female die on the bottom (to avoid marring the skins with the "tit" on the male die when sliding the skins around; I read somewhere on the Forum where another builder suggested this). My female die is 3/8" thick, while my male die is 1/4" thick; so which die I use will affected the height of the table I build. Is there any reason to use the male die on the bottom instead of the female die?

2) The table height dimension in the DRDT-2 plans will result in a table that is approximately 7/8" lower than the face of the lower die. This seems odd since I would have thought the goal was to have the carpeted work surface exactly level with the lower die face.

Am I missing something? :confused:
Click to expand...

I'm at the same point you are, and quickly noticed that the height recommended in the plans for the table didn't make much sense, it was always going to be too low ... I'd suggest you do the math and figure out the right height for you ... I haven't finalized it yet because I'm waiting to figure out what I'll use for a carpet surface ... don't have carpet scraps lying around unfortunately ... but carpet thickness can vary quite a bit, so make sure you know what you'll use before you cut ...

So far I'm using missionary style, male on top! The argument for the other way around makes perfect sense, and I'd heard it before, just not as intuitive for me ... but really, so long as you mind what you're doing, it won't much matter, and the difference in height between the dies won't matter either if you change them around, in terms of the flatness of your surface.

Just measure the height with the shortest die on the bottom ...
 
I put the female die on the bottom. Used a laser light attachment to line up the holes and proceeded with caution. Worked great. I think its actually easier that way.

There's a thread here somewhere about the laser attachment.

image_zpsoxoknote.jpeg
 
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Thanks for all the replies/advice. (Love the "Missionary" quote, J.F....)

I'll aim to get the surface of the table maybe 1/8" below the face of the male die (that will make it 1/4" below the face of the female die). In any case, the plan dimension resulting in 7/8" below seems way too low.

I already have the carpet, so I know what thickness to allow, so I'll just take it from there.

I know I'm probably over-thinking this, but it's an old occupational hazard: I was a Mechanical Engineer in a former life.

My motto used to be: "First, I have Visions,... then, I have Re-Visions..." :rolleyes:
 
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G?day Chris. This is how I set up my table for the DRDT-2. Very easy to make and you can adjust the table easily to exactly where you need it.
First make some cut outs in your board (I just used MDF) so that it fits snugly in your DRDT-2.
30k7zn8.jpg

Then attach some adjustable legs.
2a4od37.jpg

Fit to DRDT-2 and adjust legs.
2sbjsas.jpg

Add carpet and make further fine adjustments to allow for height of your die. I used the female die on the bottom to dimple all the skins in the horizontal stabiliser, vertical stabiliser and rudder ? working on the elevators now. I didn?t have any problems doing it this way.
oqm35w.jpg

Dimple as required.
2a7adtt.jpg

Legs make it easy to hang table on shed wall.
2u8jktd.jpg
 
Ian,

Nice table! What are you using for the adjustable legs?

I like the idea of a single-piece table for building the empennage.

Then when I get to the wings and fuse (where the skins are larger), I can simply cut the table in half and move the sections outboard as needed to support them.

Your adjustable legs would make that pretty easy.
 
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N804RV said:
I put the female die on the bottom. Used a laser light attachment to line up the holes and proceeded with caution. Worked great. I think its actually easier that way.

There's a thread here somewhere about the laser attachment.

image_zpsoxoknote.jpeg
Click to expand...

Oooh; cool! That will add 10kts to your top speed, easy.
 
Warbo said:
These are the ones I used
https://www.bunnings.com.au/kia-ora-110-170mm-italio-plinth-leg-4-pack_p4020373
But you can get similar from Home Depot
http://www.homedepot.com/p/ClosetMa...-Utility-Cabinet-Leveling-Kit-12009/100151848
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link, Ian.
Good luck on your -7 build.

Unfortunately, I have to put my own preparations on hold for a couple weeks while we tour Dublin, Edinburgh, London and Paris... oh, the things I have to do to keep the family happy... :rolleyes:
 
Mel said:
If you put the female die on the bottom, you will undoubtedly punch extra holes in your skins due to misalignment. If the skins set "over" the male die, this is no as likely to happen.
Click to expand...

With the male die on top, you bring it down to just above the skin, then maneuver the skin so the hole lines up with the die. You then pick up the skin slightly so that the hole surrounds the male die before bringing the handle down to form the dimple. It sounds a little tedious, but once you get in the rhythm it goes quickly; much more so than maneuvering the skin around with the male die on the bottom trying to find the hole. The only time you'll punch an extra hole is when quote not paying attention, which will happen no matter which way you install the dies.
 
Die placement

It hasn't been mentioned yet but when placing the female die on the bottom, it tends to attract debris. If you do it, clear it often. The debris can cause the two dies to jam together.
 
This is how I did it for the empennage skins. For the large flat fuselage skins, I will probably make a deck like others have done and put the male die on the bottom. But, as you can see, no need for this on the pre-bent empennage skins

HS skin dimpling Video


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