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Stainless heater bypass valve

If you look closely at what Van's provided with the RV-14 kits, you will see that the closure and mounting hinge is S.S. The box is alum. but in case of a fire the SCAT tubing will burn off anyway, so what if the box goes with it if the flapper keeps the hole plugged.
 
Ron,

I looked closely at the heater valve today and you are absolutely correct. the flapper itself is SS. You just saved me a couple of hundred dollars. That will pay my VAF dues for quite a while! Should have known that the Van's engineers are smarter than me.

Brent
 
Got a part #?

What is the part # for this al/ss heater box? Is it the same as used on the 7's? Updated or option? Admittedly I'm not current on the research for this but it's on my soon "to do / buy" list.
 
link

http://www.robbinswings.com/

Robbins Wings Inc.
Rick Robbins
7087 W. 94th Ave
Broomfield, CO. 80021


The choice of many RV, Glastar and Rocket builders because of their light weight and compact design.
Mount the box on the firewall to direct and control heat to the cockpit or windshield.

Descriptions

Compact 2 1/4 ? H X 5 1/4 ? L X4? W
Lightweight ? less than 5 ounces
6061 ? T6 Aluminum construction
304 stainless door, control arm & hinge assembly
High temp neoprene seal at firewall
Alodine finish for corrosion resistance
Available with 1 ?? or 2? inlet


Pricing

$65.00 (US)
 
http://www.robbinswings.com/

Robbins Wings Inc.
Rick Robbins
7087 W. 94th Ave
Broomfield, CO. 80021


The choice of many RV, Glastar and Rocket builders because of their light weight and compact design.
Mount the box on the firewall to direct and control heat to the cockpit or windshield.

Descriptions

Compact 2 1/4 ? H X 5 1/4 ? L X4? W
Lightweight ? less than 5 ounces
6061 ? T6 Aluminum construction
304 stainless door, control arm & hinge assembly
High temp neoprene seal at firewall
Alodine finish for corrosion resistance
Available with 1 ?? or 2? inlet


Pricing

$65.00 (US)

Hmmmmm..... looks just like the ones that come in the RV-14 kit (except for the alodine) :rolleyes:
 
Systems are only as good as their weakest link.

The box referenced above will require (as previously noted) stainless or monel rivets. A stainless flapper won't do you much good if it falls off the firewall after the rivets melt.

Personally I'd rather see a flapper with the cable control on the inside of the firewall. Same reason; the stainless flapper won't work unless held firmly closed, and a red hot Bowden cable in compression probably won't get 'er done. It would be iffy even if the hot cable was in tension.
 
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This one--heater bypass valve

http://www.planeinnovations.com/product/heater-bypass-valve-hbv-02/
With cabin side control lever for RV-7, RV-8 and RV-9.

The cabin side control unit is commonly used on RV7, RV8 and RV9 aircraft where the air is distributed in the cabin through a plenum.

All stainless steel construction offers a fireproof closure in case of an engine fire.

Designed with weight in mind, our stainless unit weighs 3.95 ounces and replaces the TG-10 aluminum box that weighs 3.28 ounces.

New flapper design offers better seal to keep out hot air when closed.
Born from necessity and designed with a passion for flight, the products offered by Plane Innovations LLC were thought out by builders looking for better solutions and thoroughly tested prior to release for sale.

The designs of these products have been directed at safety concerns, longevity and convenience.
Our products offer superior functionality for the experimental aircraft builder/owner.
-------------------------
I recently updated my firewall and installed two of these. Well built, all SS and actuator arm on the inside like my original.
FYI..2 inch hose and mounted with AN bolts (this was a RV-14 thread I jumped into with RV-6 experience)
 
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Cooling air loss?

I have the stainless steel unit from Spruce Part # 08-01311.

Looks like a constant useless leak of cooling air when valve is closed. Does anyone know a reason not to block the bypass side of the valve box?
 
I have the stainless steel unit from Spruce Part # 08-01311.

Looks like a constant useless leak of cooling air when valve is closed. Does anyone know a reason not to block the bypass side of the valve box?

I have been told that heat muffs don?t like to be dead headed.
 
I have the stainless steel unit from Spruce Part # 08-01311.

Looks like a constant useless leak of cooling air when valve is closed. Does anyone know a reason not to block the bypass side of the valve box?

This is a pretty standard practice (bypassing the airflow) on experimental and certificated aircraft to keep the heat muff(s) from overheating and burning through.
 
Muffs need good airflow ;)

A call to Vetterman confirms the advice here. Their opinion is that folks that have stopped airflow through the heat muff see premature breakdown of the stainless components.

Better COA is to open or remove the heat muff and seal the heating duct during the hot months when cabin heating not anticipated.
 
Cabin Heat Box Fluid Flow Dynamics- How do it work?

I've gone thru great pain to make sure all the potential leak paths from the engine compartment into the cabin are sealed.

Then comes along the cabin heat box (I?ve replaced the Van's aluminum version with the equivalent/identical SS version from Plane Innovations, LLC via ACS; and just an aside, I would have contacted them directly, but have had no luck in tracking down any contact info- website or phone number.)

So, but, just looking at the geometry and positions of the flapper door in operation (particularly in a ?partial open? position), there is a direct open pathway from engine compartment into the cabin. I cannot resolve in my mind how this works without ?leaking?. Maybe there are some fluid flow dynamics that always results in in a neg/positive pressure.

I?d sure appreciate someone explain how this ?works??
 
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