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Quick oil drain valve by Saf-Air P-5000

ron sterba

Well Known Member
IO 320? RV9A,,,, when I put anti seize on threads is it applied on 3rd & 4th & 5th & 6 th threads? How does it tighten up, with a torque setting or a feel-tight then one or two flats and .032 safety wire. Do the oil pan threads have to be super clean of oil residue?
Thanks
Ron
 
I have a brass valve, but have read about these, tighten until firm, anti seize as you mentioned, but definitely use a box end wrench, as it seems to crush/deform easily, or so reported. Then safety wire.
 
Thanks Bill. This valve appears aluminum (or like ) then a blue knurled coupling. Sent a question in the company on there website. I’ll respond back Monday if I get a answer.
Cheers
Ron
 
I installed one and love it, just tightened until tight with some anti seize and then safety wire.

Just a note on this .. if you use it to sample oil and don't do a full drain, for example just drain a bit and then close it back, oil will get trapped in the fitting and it will *seem* like a leak when it's not. You have to take a q-tip or maybe spray some denatured alcohol in the end to get the oil out. It will seem like it's a lot leaking when it's just what's trapped inside from when you opened it. When you do a full drain it comes out with the rest of the oil so it's not an issue, works as advertised.
 
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Same here

I installed one and love it, just tightened until tight with some anti seize.

Same here. Mine arrived with a little packet of anti-seize. I made it "good and tight" and then safety wired. IIRC, I used a Tempest oil filter torque wrench, just pushing past the click at 17 pounds. That's a great gadget by the way.

Now pondering whether I should create an access panel in the lower cowling so that I can drain the oil without removing the lower cowling.

There's a lot to be said for getting a look around in there when changing the oil, but removing the lower cowling is a real pain, and puts stress on my FAB (which broke once before, apparently not an uncommon problem).
 
Thanks for the heads up Bill and Doug. I did get a return email from Bob at SafeAire but didn’t add anything about torque setting so I’ll go with your ideas on snugging it up and I’ll go to one flat see how it feels and then two flats maybe or look at 17 lbs of torque then safety wire. Thanks for the tip on “Q Tip” ,,,,, I’ll keep a eye open on it. Did you notice the “O-rings” ? Any idea how often those get replaced or just when dripping occurs? Find anything here I’m 5 foot seven and two of my closest buddies are six foot four or five or even 6-6both of them build their own RV 9A’s ( usually I stand on a stool when iam in conversation so as not to belittled(funny, smiling ) their “snug” is “” holy crepe who the heck tighten this! So Doug 17 lbs is a good shelf figure. Draining I see the guys are using a two piece vinyl hose with a valve ( chemical sprayer) from a farm supply to drain into 2 1/2 gal clear container with a faucet handle. The container is from W_____t and is used for soft drink water and is very durable. It looks like a pretty cool set up since you can see the color of the oil after draining. Cheers, Ron
 
Same here. Mine arrived with a little packet of anti-seize. I made it "good and tight" and then safety wired. IIRC, I used a Tempest oil filter torque wrench, just pushing past the click at 17 pounds. That's a great gadget by the way.

Now pondering whether I should create an access panel in the lower cowling so that I can drain the oil without removing the lower cowling.

There's a lot to be said for getting a look around in there when changing the oil, but removing the lower cowling is a real pain, and puts stress on my FAB (which broke once before, apparently not an uncommon problem).

?. I'm not trying to sell product, nor add a negative comment in regards to
this specific product, as I have no personal experience with this brand. I am
just giving my personal opinion, and relaying what I do on my own planes. I
like to have a good look around, and check for loose bolts, cracks, oil leaks
Etc. when doing an oil change. When changing oil I usually change the filter
as well and this is always easier when everything is opened up. Over the many
years I have had several quick drain valves, and almost without exception they
seemed to develop leaks and drips as the o-rings aged. I prefer a magnetic
drain plug, that every time I remove it I have the opportunity to see what it
has captured. This shows you a trend and is an excellent indicator of camshaft
and lifter wear. The magnet also catches all the ferrous material from the oil
before it can get to and damage the oil pump (very beneficial) and can vastly
extend engine life. I see no benefit in having anything else in our R/V type
applications. Thanks, Allan:D
 
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