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Do old rivets go bad? Reviving an old debate

samiamPA

Member
Hello all,

My newbie woes continued today as I tried to rivet up by VS, which has led me to reopen an old forum debate on whether or not old rivets can "go bad" from hardening.

I have a 13 year old tail kit that I revived, and did the practice kits prior to it. Of course my riveting skills are still very basic, but I thought that I had at least the basics of how to drive rivets down. Until I started to transfer over to the spar riveting with size 4's, and my rivets weren't so hot.

At first I thought it was just my bad technique, but while backriveting the flush rivets at the base of the spar I was having a really hard time. I kept turning up the air pressure because it was taking upwards of 10 seconds to drive a rivet - waaay longer than it took me in my practice kit. I kept inching up the pressure until it started to bounce, and I bent a few rivets that will have to come out.

I still figured it was my fault, and switched techniques to the pneumatic squeezer. I also had problems here. For several of the rivets, it would start to squeeze them and then just stop--it never had the full click that signaled the end of the squeeze. This was not for all of the rivets, just some of them. But it was almost as if the tool was not capable of generating enough pressure to fully set the rivet.

So what do you think? I searched the forums and found many folks who said yes, rivets can go bad, and then others would report that they have used 30 year old rivets without trouble.

I think to be on the safe side I'm going to order all new rivets from Spruce tomorrow since they are about the cheapest part in the airplane anyway. Just figured I would seek out some experienced wisdom.
 
For what it's worth, I've been using a few of the rivets I bought at Oshkosh 30 years ago, and they're fine. They are the same (AD type) rivets as on my RV-3B. I've got a variety of them, got them for my C-180 which I'd just bought then, and they all work okay.

I wouldn't hesitate to use those 13 year old rivets.

Make sure that the squeezer is set so that it's at the end of its stroke when the rivets are set. That'll help a lot. Also use the right pressure. For my CP-214, that's about 90 psi.

For back-riveting, I think that takes a bit more pressure than conventional riveting.

Dave
 
One thing that would probably help: Get a local EAA member or RV builder to come over to your house and spend an hour with you driving (and drilling out) various rivets in scrap metal. That 'hands on' interaction will make it easy. I'm sure most of them would do it for free beer afterwards :D
 
Where in Pennsylvania

One thing that would probably help: Get a local EAA member or RV builder to come over to your house and spend an hour with you driving (and drilling out) various rivets in scrap metal. That 'hands on' interaction will make it easy. I'm sure most of them would do it for free beer afterwards :D

:) FREE Beer? :)
This is to go help someone in Pennsylvania? :cool:
Where in Pennsylvania? :confused:
 
Advise

You got lots of excellent advise. I would add, move to scrap till you know what is happening. Drilling is also a technique to learn. Ask if you don't know. Don't make scrap parts.
 
:) FREE Beer? :)
This is to go help someone in Pennsylvania? :cool:
Where in Pennsylvania? :confused:

There is ALWAYS lots of free beer in my fridge available for any Vans builder who would like to stop by!

Unfortunately I am quite a far ways away from you, near Lancaster PA.
 
You got lots of excellent advise. I would add, move to scrap till you know what is happening. Drilling is also a technique to learn. Ask if you don't know. Don't make scrap parts.

Yes, it seems like it would be good to get someone in first hand to help me out as I get the feel for things.

What made me think I might have a rivet problem is that I can set some of them just fine, but then I will reach into a different batch and just won't be able to get the new ones driven without excessive force.

I'll see if I can get someone local who might be willing to stop by.
 
Used-to-be-PA'er

I wonder if there is a mix of soft (A) versus hard (AD) rivets you are dealing with in the batch.

AD rivets should have a single dimple in the middle of the head. If some have no dimple, weed them out of the batch.
 
You got lots of excellent advise. I would add, move to scrap till you know what is happening. Drilling is also a technique to learn. Ask if you don't know. Don't make scrap parts.

(Don't make scrap parts)? That is awesome! Never heard that one before! I think everyone has a pile going.......
 
Scrap parts

(Don't make scrap parts)? That is awesome! Never heard that one before! I think everyone has a pile going.......

Do as I say, not as I do! My scrap pile is evidence to my lack of following my own advise.:eek:
 
Thanks again all. I will be meeting with a builder in the next week or so once we get schedules worked out, but figured I would provide an update.

I tried a bunch of rivets on scrap tonight and they looked great. I then tried going back to the spar, and was running into some of the same troubles. But I found that if I started the rivet squeeze with the manual squeezer, then the pneumatic would finish it off. It is almost as if contact with the rivet stem too early would cause it to stop squeezing. Has anyone heard of this?

FWIW it is an Avery squeezer that I bought second hand, barely used, from another builder.
 
squeezing -4 rivets

Sometimes when squeezing -4 AD rivets with the pneumatic squeezer, I have to adjust the squeezer to squeeze them part way, then readjust to complete the squeeze in the second go around. Otherwise the squeezer would stall when trying to take it with one bite as the cam in the the squeezer wouldn't have enough leverage to do the job.

P. S. I get to PA occasionally to visit mother-in-law in Lititz, PA and would be happy to visit your project when I'm there if you still need help!
 
Sometimes when squeezing -4 AD rivets with the pneumatic squeezer, I have to adjust the squeezer to squeeze them part way, then readjust to complete the squeeze in the second go around. Otherwise the squeezer would stall when trying to take it with one bite as the cam in the the squeezer wouldn't have enough leverage to do the job.

P. S. I get to PA occasionally to visit mother-in-law in Lititz, PA and would be happy to visit your project when I'm there if you still need help!

Also nailed it here.

And yes, please let me know if you are ever in the Lititz area, there is an open invite for any RV builder here!
 
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