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  #11  
Old 08-10-2018, 02:26 PM
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BruceEicher BruceEicher is offline
 
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My DIY experience, now flown 5 years; don’t put either type of seam on a leading edge. Wind and rain will wear thru the material. I’m not sure about your printed vinyl’s ability to stretch around the compound curve of the stab. But if it were like the 3m 1080 I used I would plan the seam an inch behind the leading edge, either seam type. I also used 3m primer under such a seam giving a stronger bond to hold down the now stretched one inch. A fix in any case is seam sealer applied over the seam to slow down the leading edge wear and/or tack it down, but this shows some brush marks.
These products are also on the link I posted.

Here’s my old/tired DIY thread, where I did many seams wrong, on the leading edge.
http://www.vansairforce.com/communit...ad.php?t=98932
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Last edited by BruceEicher : 08-10-2018 at 02:33 PM. Reason: Add thread
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2018, 04:53 PM
TurnsWrenches TurnsWrenches is offline
 
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I've always used an old credit card or autobody squeegee along with lots of masking tape to hold things in the perfect position. Automotive foaming window cleaner works well for being able to reposition the decal after install.

And as Bruce mentioned, edge seal makes your decals last many times longer. If you want clean edges with it, just mask 3/16" from the edge of your decal, both on the decal and on the skin, and pull the masking tape off once the window is thin coat of edge seal starts to set up.

Last edited by TurnsWrenches : 08-10-2018 at 04:57 PM.
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2018, 07:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasonm View Post
I have Tri-Line tape in my hangar if you need it.
Thanks! I could use a couple feet of it. Maybe you could show me how to use it. That video just confused me.
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  #14  
Old 08-10-2018, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceEicher View Post
Here’s my old/tired DIY thread...
Oh thanks. I'll be pouring over that.
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  #15  
Old 08-11-2018, 11:50 PM
atalla atalla is offline
 
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Iv used rapid tack. On truck only. Works well. Increases working time and allows you to move the decal around. Also once your happy with the placement you are to supposed to soak the application paper and wait. Low and behold. It practically falls off illuminating the potential for tearing letters and numbers while removing the film.
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  #16  
Old 08-12-2018, 06:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atalla View Post
Iv used rapid tack.
Thanks for the PIREP. I think I'll buy a spray bottle of the stuff and try it. It has 4-star reviews at Amazon. Some reviewers reported that it only had two minutes working time. That could be a problem on an 18'-long stripe...
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  #17  
Old 08-12-2018, 03:22 PM
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Default More questions

For molding the vinyl around curvy places like the wingtips, is a standard hair dryer OK or do I need one of those really hot heat guns?

I'm getting nervous...
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  #18  
Old 08-13-2018, 09:25 AM
mbell mbell is offline
 
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I replaced the stripes on my RV-6A dry and ended up with plenty of little bubbles. They eventually went away. Recently placed lots of vinyl trim around some AirCam windows using Rapid Tack, with mixed results. Tried it on a thick clear vinyl "bra" that goes under the front canopy and it didn't work at all, ruining a $125 piece. So far the best product has been Gila Window Film Application Solution, available at Home Depot. As long as the vinyl is wet with this stuff you can move it, and then it dries out perfectly. The padded squeegee (from Amazon) is helpful, along with a plastic putty knife.
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  #19  
Old 08-13-2018, 09:48 AM
OGee OGee is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snopercod View Post
So my vinyl stripes arrived today from Aerographics and now I have to figure out how to apply them. The stripes are 18' long, straight, and taper from 3/4" wide in the front to 2" wide at the tail. The material is 3M Scotchcal 220. Aerographics sent instructions describing a dry method and a wet method. I'm thinking the dry method is what I should use. They suggest placing the vinyl on the aircraft with small pieces of tape to hold it in place, then taping a continuous "hinge" along the top edge so the material can be lifted up and the backing pulled off. Does this sound right? Does anyone have any advice or suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Definitely go wet. The spray liquid is called RapidTac. Buy it at a sign supply store or over the internet or make it. Basically it's a few drops of liquid soap in water. Google it for the exact portions. Use it liberally. The hinging as described is correct. Squeegee from the hinge down to force out all the bubbles. Don't be afraid to bear down the vinyl is tough. You may take a piece of the non-hook velcro and fold it over the edge of the squeegee if you want to soften the application, but i would first squeegee out the bubbles without it.
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  #20  
Old 08-13-2018, 12:20 PM
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Thanks guys. I ordered some Rapid-Tac, a felt squeege, and some 3M #94 primer which I intend to use on the leading edges and other places where I really need a strong bond. When I think about it, though, I'm not sure how the primer will play with the application fluid. I plan to practice on the tips of my horizontal stabilizer so if I screw it up, it won't be difficult to do over. I'll check out the Gila Application stuff, too.
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