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  #1  
Old 07-22-2018, 10:06 PM
flyingbeaver26's Avatar
flyingbeaver26 flyingbeaver26 is offline
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 67
Default 2-gauge master through firewall

I have a CS prop and will be mounting my battery in the rear. The Van's FWF kit comes with BARELY enough 2-gauge wire from the master solenoid to the starter solenoid. I'm annoyed.. I literally have enough cable to go about 1" from my opening in the firewall. So I need to penetrate the FW right under the starter solenoid tab. The crimp on the cable may stick into the penetration conduit.

Since we are supposed to be using steel here for the conduits, I have a problem. I could put heat shrink around the crimp fitting an a small piece of fire sleeve around that to insulate it from the conduit.

Has anybody else had this issue? Should I just go buy $70 of 2-gauge cable to get a longer piece that works?
Also, the 8 is the only kit that has a battery behind the FW option I believe, What hardware did you use to get your battery cable through the firewall?

Thanks for your assistance.
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  #2  
Old 07-23-2018, 12:31 AM
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Wunderon Wunderon is offline
 
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Location: Seattle (Edmonds) and Iowa
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Default

hmm, I have the Vanís wire kit and my AWG2 was long enough to go from the aft-mounted master to the firewall plus about 16Ē, via the left gear tower. I basically routed per the OP10/11 plan. If you are buying a replacement might consider welding cable. B&C and Amazon have various choices. Iím using closet flanges for penetrations. https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Ste...ref=mp_s_a_1_3
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  #3  
Old 07-23-2018, 12:49 AM
rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGG
Posts: 2,339
Default lifepo4 battery?

Or you might think about putting a very light LiFePo4 battery on the FW and save a lot of total weight and long wiring runs. Earthx has some nice batteries.

Strap a small tool bag into the rear baggage area if you need help with W&B when flying solo.
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2018, 02:14 AM
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Lufthans Lufthans is offline
 
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Location: Hilversum, The Netherlands
Posts: 40
Default

The RV4 typically has the battery behind the firewall, on the floor in the compartment between the pilots calves. I believe it then is pretty much up to the builder to figure out a way to penetrate the firewall.

On ours, the builder has used some of those ball things. Aircraft Spruce sells all sorts of firewall fittings.

But really, do yourself a favour and stick to how things are supposed to be and don't go modifying for want of a piece of wire.

My $.02

Hans

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingbeaver26 View Post
I have a CS prop and will be mounting my battery in the rear. The Van's FWF kit comes with BARELY enough 2-gauge wire from the master solenoid to the starter solenoid. I'm annoyed.. I literally have enough cable to go about 1" from my opening in the firewall. So I need to penetrate the FW right under the starter solenoid tab. The crimp on the cable may stick into the penetration conduit.

Since we are supposed to be using steel here for the conduits, I have a problem. I could put heat shrink around the crimp fitting an a small piece of fire sleeve around that to insulate it from the conduit.

Has anybody else had this issue? Should I just go buy $70 of 2-gauge cable to get a longer piece that works?
Also, the 8 is the only kit that has a battery behind the FW option I believe, What hardware did you use to get your battery cable through the firewall?

Thanks for your assistance.
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Hilversum, The Netherlands

PH-SUM RV-4; Imported and upgraded.
PH-BRR Bowers Fly Baby; Imported and upgraded
PH-MGA Jodel DR1050; Built, with Subaru EJ25
PH-EIL RV4; Imported and upgraded for friend. Sadly crashed
PH-ERD Robin DR300; Built with Subaru EZ30 for friend.
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  #5  
Old 07-23-2018, 08:57 AM
Carl Froehlich's Avatar
Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
Posts: 1,668
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Firewall forward kits will never meet all applications. As I use a difference governor, alternator, oil cooler and such I donít use them.

I stopped using aircraft #2, #4 or #6 wire a long time ago. Go on Amazon and get US made welding cable for all these runs. More durable than Tefzel wire, very flexible and less expensive.

If interested, send me your email and Iíll show you how I mounted and configured two PC-625 batteries in my new RV-8 project, one aft and one in the forward baggage well. Using another RV-8 W&B data and a sharp pencil it looks like a nice set up for a IO-360M1B with Hartzell BA prop.

Carl
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  #6  
Old 07-23-2018, 04:21 PM
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Lufthans Lufthans is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
I stopped using aircraft #2, #4 or #6 wire a long time ago. Go on Amazon and get US made welding cable for all these runs. More durable than Tefzel wire, very flexible and less expensive.

Carl
Really the only reason to use Tefzel is that when smoking hot, it doesn't give off nearly as much toxic fumes as PVC clad wire does, so that you might survive an electric fire.

Other than that, Tefzel is terrible. It is brittle, expensive, hard to strip, and why does it have to be predominantly white?

Yet, in all my aircraft wiring, I use it. Don't fancy dying from suffocation...

Hans
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PH-SUM RV-4; Imported and upgraded.
PH-BRR Bowers Fly Baby; Imported and upgraded
PH-MGA Jodel DR1050; Built, with Subaru EJ25
PH-EIL RV4; Imported and upgraded for friend. Sadly crashed
PH-ERD Robin DR300; Built with Subaru EZ30 for friend.
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  #7  
Old 07-23-2018, 05:01 PM
sf3543 sf3543 is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 918
Default T

You could get a firewall bulk head cable connector, which is basically an insulated threaded rod that penetrates the FW. That would allow you to use the long piece to the FW from the battery and then get a shorter piece forward of the firewall. Also, makes a better sealed penetration.
You will have two additional terminals for the wire ends though.
Summit racing sells them for less than $10.
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  #8  
Old 07-23-2018, 05:29 PM
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Carl Froehlich Carl Froehlich is offline
 
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Location: Dogwood Airpark (VA42)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lufthans View Post
Really the only reason to use Tefzel is that when smoking hot, it doesn't give off nearly as much toxic fumes as PVC clad wire does, so that you might survive an electric fire.

Other than that, Tefzel is terrible. It is brittle, expensive, hard to strip, and why does it have to be predominantly white?

Yet, in all my aircraft wiring, I use it. Don't fancy dying from suffocation...

Hans
Welding cable is not PVC insulation.

I took a torch to the welding cable before I installed it. It chard a little, but did not burn. The Tefzel cable did not fair as well.

I do use Tefzell wire for all application other than #6, #4 or #2.

Carl
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  #9  
Old 07-23-2018, 06:34 PM
Reformed SeaSnake Reformed SeaSnake is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Beaverton
Posts: 30
Default Bit the bullet and bought more

Quote:
Originally Posted by flyingbeaver26 View Post
I have a CS prop and will be mounting my battery in the rear. The Van's FWF kit comes with BARELY enough 2-gauge wire from the master solenoid to the starter solenoid. I'm annoyed.. I literally have enough cable to go about 1" from my opening in the firewall. So I need to penetrate the FW right under the starter solenoid tab. The crimp on the cable may stick into the penetration conduit.

Since we are supposed to be using steel here for the conduits, I have a problem. I could put heat shrink around the crimp fitting an a small piece of fire sleeve around that to insulate it from the conduit.

Has anybody else had this issue? Should I just go buy $70 of 2-gauge cable to get a longer piece that works?
Also, the 8 is the only kit that has a battery behind the FW option I believe, What hardware did you use to get your battery cable through the firewall?

Thanks for your assistance.
I have a similar set up to yours and bought the longer #2 Tefzel. It was definitely not the most expensive ďadd-onĒ I had to one of Vans sub kits.

I ended up using the #2 that came with the kit to run the starter solenoid to starter, the battery ground, and the short length between the battery and the master solenoid mounted on the battery box. I have a couple feet left, but less than what I thought I would have.

As far as the firewall penetration, there are a number of good threads on VAF which discuss that. ACS sells a steel pass-through for ~$60. I made something similar using steel conduit fitting from Home Depot.
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  #10  
Old 07-24-2018, 03:32 AM
Lufthans's Avatar
Lufthans Lufthans is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Carl Froehlich View Post
Welding cable is not PVC insulation.

I took a torch to the welding cable before I installed it. It chard a little, but did not burn. The Tefzel cable did not fair as well.

I do use Tefzell wire for all application other than #6, #4 or #2.

Carl
In that case, please disregard my remarks :-)

I'm finishing a car build from scratch and have used welding cable there too. Good stuff and indeed 1000 times better to work with than the Tefzel stuff.

Hans
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PH-SUM RV-4; Imported and upgraded.
PH-BRR Bowers Fly Baby; Imported and upgraded
PH-MGA Jodel DR1050; Built, with Subaru EJ25
PH-EIL RV4; Imported and upgraded for friend. Sadly crashed
PH-ERD Robin DR300; Built with Subaru EZ30 for friend.
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