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  #11  
Old 08-05-2018, 12:25 PM
wawrzynskivp wawrzynskivp is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: san jose
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Default Cooling air loss?

I have the stainless steel unit from Spruce Part # 08-01311.

Looks like a constant useless leak of cooling air when valve is closed. Does anyone know a reason not to block the bypass side of the valve box?
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  #12  
Old 08-05-2018, 01:31 PM
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Brantel Brantel is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wawrzynskivp View Post
I have the stainless steel unit from Spruce Part # 08-01311.

Looks like a constant useless leak of cooling air when valve is closed. Does anyone know a reason not to block the bypass side of the valve box?
I have been told that heat muffs donít like to be dead headed.
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  #13  
Old 08-05-2018, 04:23 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wawrzynskivp View Post
I have the stainless steel unit from Spruce Part # 08-01311.

Looks like a constant useless leak of cooling air when valve is closed. Does anyone know a reason not to block the bypass side of the valve box?
This is a pretty standard practice (bypassing the airflow) on experimental and certificated aircraft to keep the heat muff(s) from overheating and burning through.
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  #14  
Old 08-06-2018, 09:19 AM
wawrzynskivp wawrzynskivp is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: san jose
Posts: 8
Default Muffs need good airflow ;)

A call to Vetterman confirms the advice here. Their opinion is that folks that have stopped airflow through the heat muff see premature breakdown of the stainless components.

Better COA is to open or remove the heat muff and seal the heating duct during the hot months when cabin heating not anticipated.
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