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  #11  
Old 05-06-2015, 08:07 PM
Skunkworks's Avatar
Skunkworks Skunkworks is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Douglassville, PA
Posts: 61
Default RV-12 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (Finish Kit Shipped prior to 08-25-11) 03-22-12 w 8-31-14 AP

Link below to PDF version of RV-12 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (Finish Kit Shipped prior to 08-25-11) 03-22-12 with 8-31-14 AP-KNOB MOD, Look Bottom Right for the addition of the A/P knob
Click here for PDF
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  #12  
Old 08-05-2018, 08:20 PM
rsipp rsipp is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 48
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Mark,
I know the thread is dated now, but I too would like to see your wiring changes to accommodate the autopilot and bugs knobs with the conversion harness.
The link in your email did not work, hopefully it is still available.
Many thanks.
Dick Sipp
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  #13  
Old 08-06-2018, 11:59 AM
pilotyoung pilotyoung is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 56
Default auto-pilot panel

Don,

I just installed those in my RV-12 with a conversion harness. The one thing I didn't see mentioned so far is that after they are installed and you have the network find them, you also have to go into the calibration menu and in order for the auto trim feature to work.

I used a pin removal tool for both d-sub and molex connectors. I borrowed them from another pilot on my field.

Also, be sure to disconnect the battery before starting work.

John
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  #14  
Old 08-06-2018, 12:12 PM
pilotyoung pilotyoung is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 56
Default auto-pilot panel

Don,

Search these forums. There is a long post with pictures from a guy that installd these modules in a RV-12 with the conversion harness. I don't remember his name, but it was very helpful.

John
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  #15  
Old 08-06-2018, 04:00 PM
rsipp rsipp is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 48
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John, do you have any information on what changes you had to make to the conversion or other wiring harnesses to get the control panels to work?
Dick Sipp
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  #16  
Old 08-06-2018, 08:31 PM
pilotyoung pilotyoung is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 56
Default auto-pilot panel

The conversion harness is not really a problem. On the newer RV-12's without the conversion harness, the only wires on the auto-pilot cable are the 4 wires that go under the panel to the molex plug. As I remember Van's instructions, they are disconnect the d-sub plug from the AV-50000, remove the wires from the molex plug, save the plug, and throw away the old auto-pilot cable.

With the conversion the wires from the d-sub autopilot cable go into one of two conversion d-subs. The 4 wires from the molex connector go into the other side of one of those d-sub connectors. So you can't just throw those cables away. So after I disconnected the 4 wires from the molex connector, I cut them off, put heat shrink over the ends, and taped up the ends of the d-sub auto-pilot connector, and labeled it old and not used.

I got the new wiring harness with the kit from Van's and hooked up the 4 wires to the old molex connector, made the other connections as Van's instructions say, and hooked it all up and it worked. I had two problems. First, I went to the Skyview setup and had the network search for the new items. After doing that, the auto-trim function was not recognized. I then learned that you have to go into the calibration menu and let it calibrate the auto-trim function before it will work.

The other problem was that I put in Tosten grip and I had the pitch trim backwards. That was an east fix, just switch two wires on the d-sub that goes into the back of the auto-pilot module.

I had one more problem. I did not disconnect the battery before I started. There is an internal one amp fuse in the Switch Module that controls the voltage regulator. After I was done with the upgrades and they all worked, the battery was not charging. I presumed that the Ducati had failed, so I replaced it with a John Deere. It did not work either. After extensive trouble shooting. I found that that 1 amp internal fuse was blown. Eric from Van's then told me that the new wiring plan for the voltage regualtor is to just jump the small yellow wire (the one that used to go through the switch module and that 1 amp fues) over to the white wire on the regulator. I did that and the battery is charging properly.

My take away from all this is that before you make the holes for the auto-pilot and knob module, take out the com radio tray and the switch module. Then there is no way particles can fall down into the switch module.

I found the name of the guy that posted the extensive article on installing these modules in an RV-12 with a conversion harness. His name is Jim Schmetterling of Schmetterling Aviation. Search the forums for his article. If you can't find it, I have it on my ipad as a pdf file.

His article, Dynon, and Van's support were extremely helpful to me and without all of them, my stuff would not be working.

I installed the GPS 2020, ADS-B 472, auto-pilot control module, auto-pilot knob module, AOA, and a new stick grip, Tosten, with pitch trim and auto-pilot disconnect all in the same project. It was a larger undertaking that I realized at the beginning. It took me three weeks, working all day Mon-Fri, and then a couple of more days to solve the battery charging problem.

I hope this helps. If I can help further I will be glad to try. I have only flown 3 flights since adding all of this equipment but it is great and truly worth the effort.
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  #17  
Old 08-06-2018, 09:06 PM
Mich48041 Mich48041 is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Riley TWP MI
Posts: 2,739
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Quote:
Eric from Van's then told me that the new wiring plan for the voltage regulator is to just jump the small yellow wire (the one that used to go through the switch module and that 1 amp fues) over to the white wire on the regulator.
The problem with doing that is that the master switch no longer controls the alternator. If there is smoke in the cockpit, shutting off the master switch will not shut off electrical power. Don't believe me? Then shut off the master switch during cruise and see what happens.
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RV-12 Flying
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  #18  
Old 08-07-2018, 11:07 AM
MMiller MMiller is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Babylon NY
Posts: 55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilotyoung View Post
I found the name of the guy that posted the extensive article on installing these modules in an RV-12 with a conversion harness. His name is Jim Schmetterling of Schmetterling Aviation. Search the forums for his article. If you can't find it, I have it on my ipad as a pdf file.
I believe you mean Dave Gamble, he published an excellent builders log on a site he called Schmettering Aviation. You won’t find any data or pictures on this site, he would post here often, with a link to his blog. I think this is the page you were looking for.

http://www.schmetterlingaviation.com...pilot.html?m=0
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  #19  
Old 08-07-2018, 05:22 PM
pilotyoung pilotyoung is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 56
Default auto-pilot module

Don,

That is the article I was referring to. It helped me a lot when I was installing mine.
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  #20  
Old 08-07-2018, 05:25 PM
pilotyoung pilotyoung is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 56
Default regulator

Joe,

This is a question. The battery wire on the regulator, on mine a white wire, comes from the master relay. So when the master is turned, it has power, when the master is off, it does not have power.

But that battery wire is directly connected to the generator wire, so are you saying when the engine is running and the generator is producing power, even after shutting the master off, it will still have power on it?

If that is the case, it seems to me a simple fix is to run that jumper wire from one lug to the other throiugh the one side of the master switch.

John
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