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  #1  
Old 12-10-2014, 10:48 PM
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Blain Blain is offline
 
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Default Front stick wire exit

At the risk of another primer war, have we ever determined the acceptable exit for the front stick wiring? And yes, I've read the 8 page thread a while back. But it never solved or exposed an answer. But there are some entertaining opinions......
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  #2  
Old 12-11-2014, 07:33 AM
Robert Anglin Robert Anglin is offline
 
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Default My spot.

Most of the front sticks I have seen, pick a spot just above the collar of the pass-throu bushing. That is about as little flex as you will put into the wires as you push the stick around. Also make it as small as you need. You can get the little grommets at you local ACE store. Yep that's were mine is.
Hope this helps. Yours as always. R.E.A.III #80888

Last edited by Robert Anglin : 12-11-2014 at 07:46 AM. Reason: My bad,,,
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  #3  
Old 12-11-2014, 07:52 AM
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I'd have to look at my log for sure but I think I came outjust below the mounting bolt pass through, in the front. I only have put on my stick so it is a small hole with a small grommet. I also installed a connector there to make it easy to remove stick if need be. May be a pic in my log link below


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  #4  
Old 12-11-2014, 08:00 AM
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MikeyDale MikeyDale is offline
 
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Default Co Pilot Stick

If this is what you are talking about, I did it this way. The stick boots that I ordered from Classic Aero covers the exit and tape.
[IMG][/IMG]
I later installed a 9 pin plug to make the stick removable. I ran the wire out of the bottom on the pilot stick as it was not removable and I didn't want to jeopardize the strength of the stick.
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  #5  
Old 12-11-2014, 10:33 AM
brad walton brad walton is offline
 
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Location: Cypress, TX
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I did my front stick the way MikeyDale did his rear stick. Exit up high and secured it to exterior of stick with tie wraps. The wires never get in the way, minimal flexing, and most importantly, if it ever develops a crack, I still have enough stick left to fly the plane. It has worked well for me for 260 hours. My Tosten grip is wired for two axis trim, flaps up/down, and PTT.
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  #6  
Old 12-15-2014, 09:10 PM
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Blain Blain is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyDale View Post
If this is what you are talking about, I did it this way. The stick boots that I ordered from Classic Aero covers the exit and tape.
[IMG][/IMG]
I later installed a 9 pin plug to make the stick removable. I ran the wire out of the bottom on the pilot stick as it was not removable and I didn't want to jeopardize the strength of the stick.
"Stick boot". I never liked the idea of wire exit up high because they are exposed and, frankly, doesn't look clean. But the boot covers them. I like that idea.
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  #7  
Old 12-16-2014, 06:02 AM
BillL BillL is offline
 
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Blain, I can get a picture if you want it, but here is what I have done and why.

Background: There are two forces on the stick. Elevator, and aileron. Both of these can act on the stick above the bolted pivot joint. This means any hole there can be in a stressed area due to some combination of the two.

Below the bolted pivot, only the aileron forces act on the stick, the load always go side to side. This means there is a "neutral axis" where a hole can be placed with confidence.

The hole should be small, and only what is needed for the wire bundle, maybe a snake skin sheath, maybe 5/16?

The hole should be carefully deburred and basically polished around the perimeter.

Hole Location:

If the hole is put in the lower part of the stick, drilled along the axis of the aircraft, (perpendicular to the aileron rods), and just above the lower weldment, then it is in the neutral axis and in the lowest bending moment portion of the stick. To keep flexure of the wires to a minimum, and keep wires from moving around in the hole, tape the bundle back to the stick so it tracks back up to the bolted elevator pivot point and then loop to fuse so in full motion the wire moves the least.

firesuit on - YMMV

PS - the principles work for the 8 as well, but I don't know if the geometry allows this like the 7.
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Last edited by BillL : 12-16-2014 at 06:07 AM. Reason: spellin'
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  #8  
Old 12-16-2014, 09:28 AM
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Blain Blain is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
Blain, I can get a picture if you want it, but here is what I have done and why.

Background: There are two forces on the stick. Elevator, and aileron. Both of these can act on the stick above the bolted pivot joint. This means any hole there can be in a stressed area due to some combination of the two.

Below the bolted pivot, only the aileron forces act on the stick, the load always go side to side. This means there is a "neutral axis" where a hole can be placed with confidence.

The hole should be small, and only what is needed for the wire bundle, maybe a snake skin sheath, maybe 5/16?

The hole should be carefully deburred and basically polished around the perimeter.

Hole Location:

If the hole is put in the lower part of the stick, drilled along the axis of the aircraft, (perpendicular to the aileron rods), and just above the lower weldment, then it is in the neutral axis and in the lowest bending moment portion of the stick. To keep flexure of the wires to a minimum, and keep wires from moving around in the hole, tape the bundle back to the stick so it tracks back up to the bolted elevator pivot point and then loop to fuse so in full motion the wire moves the least.

firesuit on - YMMV

PS - the principles work for the 8 as well, but I don't know if the geometry allows this like the 7.
Seems like we are rehashing an old thread but here is my thought on your suggestion; Any failure below the pivot will render the control system useless. And pre flight inspection difficult. However, above the pivot leaves the system intact with whatever is left of the stick. And inspection much easier. Questioned Vans via email. Didn't get a response.
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  #9  
Old 12-16-2014, 10:03 AM
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Low Pass Low Pass is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillL View Post
Below the bolted pivot, only the aileron forces act on the stick, the load always go side to side. This means there is a "neutral axis" where a hole can be placed with confidence...
.
With the -8, the forces acting below the pivot are the elevator only (fore/aft). To your point, a hole in the side of the stick would be of minimal impact there. (But then again, I would worry more about the stick failing in fore/aft loading, just due to the higher fore/aft stick loading, versus lateral, in an RV).

In either instance, drilling as far from the pivot as possible is always the best choice. Not opinion. It's physics.

Last edited by Low Pass : 12-16-2014 at 10:28 AM.
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  #10  
Old 12-16-2014, 02:14 PM
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Paul Tuttle Paul Tuttle is offline
 
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I drilled the stick just under the grip and ran the wire down the front of the stick.
Can't see the wire. As stated in other posts, the further from the pivot point the better.
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