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  #11  
Old 08-10-2018, 03:53 PM
Reflex Reflex is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Kansas
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Anxious for some additional replies on this thread. Working on this right now. Have all the fairings cleco'd in place and need to decide how best to proceed. I've decided not to glass the lower fairing on the rudder due to balance concerns.

So why am I going to do the others? After looking a RV's at OSH, I just have to. Love those clean lines. On the other hand, if poorly done....not pretty.

My questions are:
  • Glass against the skin and bridging the seam to the FRP?
  • Build up a little mirco and embed the glass into mirco and on to the FRP? (think elevator counterbalance tips)
  • How much glass (cloth) on either side of the seam?
  • How far to transition (easy on the FRP side tough to know on the aluminum side)
  • If properly prepped, will the micro adhere to the aluminum (West Systems)?
  • If using epoxy and POP rivets (as per Dan H) will West Systems 105/206 work?
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2018, 05:42 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reflex View Post
Anxious for some additional replies on this thread. Working on this right now....[*]How far to transition (easy on the FRP side tough to know on the aluminum side)
....[/list]
As I mentioned earlier - a tip from a surfboard shaper.

Blend in at 1 inch per oz of cloth weight on a flat surface - which is basically the metal side on all of our joints.

On the molded glass side it's not critical, just blend in to the curvature.
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2018, 11:15 PM
snoop9erdog snoop9erdog is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 172
Default My experience

Quote:
Originally Posted by Reflex View Post
Anxious for some additional replies on this thread. Working on this right now. Have all the fairings cleco'd in place and need to decide how best to proceed. I've decided not to glass the lower fairing on the rudder due to balance concerns.

So why am I going to do the others? After looking a RV's at OSH, I just have to. Love those clean lines. On the other hand, if poorly done....not pretty.

My questions are:
  • Glass against the skin and bridging the seam to the FRP?
  • Build up a little mirco and embed the glass into mirco and on to the FRP? (think elevator counterbalance tips)
  • How much glass (cloth) on either side of the seam?
  • How far to transition (easy on the FRP side tough to know on the aluminum side)
  • If properly prepped, will the micro adhere to the aluminum (West Systems)?
  • If using epoxy and POP rivets (as per Dan H) will West Systems 105/206 work?

Jayhawk Reflex,

I mixed up west systems 105/206 and brushed onto the seam a 1" glass tape (very smooth) over the seam. Worked great. Then came back 24 hrs later and mixed up another batch of epoxy with 410 microlight filler (west systems product) and applied with a credit card over the seam. Gave another 24 hrs to cure....then went to town sanding.
I recommend you sand slowly and have patience....because if not, before you know it you've sanded down too much in one area compared to another...and down to the tape. So then you apply a little more and start the iteration once again.
The most challenging part was the sanding and feathering into either the aluminum or fiberglass side. Can be done to perfection but takes a lit of time and patience in my opinion. Oh yah I used electrical tape placed 3/8" beyond the glass tape on each side of seam and used that as by boundry to mesh into the aluminum and or fiberglass.
Good luck. Actually there is no luck involved. You'll have to make your own luck. But it's possible. Maybe your method will be easier than mine.
Cheers.
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Last edited by snoop9erdog : 08-10-2018 at 11:24 PM.
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