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  #11  
Old 08-08-2018, 10:30 PM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Location: Pocahontas MS
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Try a short length of pvc pipe as a 'rolling pin' to mix the sealant.
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  #12  
Old 08-09-2018, 12:08 AM
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jcarne jcarne is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rv7charlie View Post
One quart kit of Flamemaster from Van did two RV-7 main tanks plus two 14 gallon leading edge (3 bays) aux tanks.

Charlie
Wow! Teach me your ways.

I guess my mixing in a cup each time probably left a fair amount of waste compared to the bag trick.
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  #13  
Old 08-09-2018, 06:44 AM
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kbalch kbalch is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain_John View Post
Ken, here is a link from a fellow builder named Paul Trotter.

https://www.rivetbangers.com/documents/tank_sealant.pdf

He thoroughly researched and wrote about the subject of sealant in detail.

Check it out. It is a wealth of information!

CJ
Great info there; thanks!!
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RV-8 N118KB (sold)
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  #14  
Old 08-09-2018, 06:46 AM
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kbalch kbalch is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StressedOut View Post
I posted some tidbits a few months ago about what I learned about sealant. It's post #11 if you're interested. Cheap Semco sealant gun and tips about using rollers instead of popsicle sticks.
I've seen that post before and have bookmarked the rollers and other miscellaneous tips. I used popsicle sticks to do my elevator foam ribs and that was enough for me.
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RV-8 N118KB (sold)
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  #15  
Old 08-09-2018, 06:48 AM
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kbalch kbalch is offline
 
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Thanks, guys. I'll get the various orders in today and should be underway on my first tank sometime next week.
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RV-8 N118KB (sold)
RV-14A #140494 (Left wing underway)
N114KB (reserved)
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  #16  
Old 08-09-2018, 08:33 AM
rv7charlie rv7charlie is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcarne View Post
Wow! Teach me your ways.

I guess my mixing in a cup each time probably left a fair amount of waste compared to the bag trick.
Actually, the vast majority of waste is on the interior (not-end) ribs, & the stiffeners. The only place the tank can leak is through the rivet holes, so the only sealant that matters is in the hole, and for insurance, a little 'donut' of sealant around the rivet between the faying surfaces plus a small dollop over the shop head.

I wish I could claim 'brilliance', but I was taught by a 2-time builder.

Charlie
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  #17  
Old 08-09-2018, 09:39 AM
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DanH DanH is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain_John View Post
Ken, here is a link from a fellow builder named Paul Trotter.
https://www.rivetbangers.com/documents/tank_sealant.pdf
Good article for sure.
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  #18  
Old 08-09-2018, 10:47 AM
fixnflyguy fixnflyguy is offline
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Winston-Salem, N.C.
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Default Prep and coverage is key

The reality is that the prep and coverage are all that matters. You can apply it a million ways, and I prefer a simple acid brush and typically squeeze the mixed product into a cup or on a piece of scrap whatever. I prefer to scotchbrite clean and wipe down with Coleman lantern fluid prior to application. When applying, more isn't always better...just even coverage and no voids. I prefer a brush coat of "B" (Toothpaste consistency) on mating surfaces, rivet together, and later topcoat the joint and rivet tails with "A" (thin milkshake consistency) . I see little need to mask anything, and some MEK will clean any slop you need to wipe up. Between all the written lines of the Specs, processes and tools are the layman's method I described. For the record, my day job is maintaining the fleet of KC-10 refueling tankers...i'm literately standing next to cases of sealant as I write this. Don't let the myths and horror stories scare you !
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  #19  
Old 08-10-2018, 04:05 PM
TurnsWrenches TurnsWrenches is offline
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Winnipeg
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Apply some masking tape onto a piece of scrap aluminum around 8" square. Tare your scale with a metal putty scraper and a popsicle stick on it. Use the scraper for Part A, and popsicle stick for Part B. In my experience, it yields perfect proseal every time.
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