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  #11  
Old 08-09-2018, 01:13 PM
StressedOut StressedOut is offline
 
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It's generally a bad idea to try and close the gap by just squeezing the parts together. It introduces stresses in the flange and can cause fatigue cracking down the road. Putting sealant in does nothing to fix this issue.

I like David's idea to try bending the flange back first. You won't get it back to its original position, but you might get it closer. Then you get a piece of aluminum of an appropriate thickness to use as a shim. Try to get no more than 0.005 in. of gap before you shoot the rivet. Adjust the length of the rivet as necessary to account for the additional stack up thickness.

If the shim is bare aluminum you should treat it with Alodine. If it's clad you can leave it alone. Alternatively, sealant around both sides of the shim will prevent moisture ingress and subsequent corrosion. Either way works.
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  #12  
Old 08-09-2018, 01:15 PM
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az_gila az_gila is offline
 
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Location: 57AZ - NW Tucson area
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Originally Posted by StressedOut View Post
It's generally a bad idea to try and close the gap by just squeezing the parts together. It introduces stresses in the flange and can cause fatigue cracking down the road. Putting sealant in does nothing to fix this issue.

I like David's idea to try bending the flange back first. You won't get it back to its original position, but you might get it closer. Then you get a piece of aluminum of an appropriate thickness to use as a shim. Try to get no more than 0.005 in. of gap before you shoot the rivet. Adjust the length of the rivet as necessary to account for the additional stack up thickness.

If the shim is bare aluminum you should treat it with Alodine. If it's clad you can leave it alone. Alternatively, sealant around both sides of the shim will prevent moisture ingress and subsequent corrosion. Either way works.
The shim would be just compensating for the crease at the front of the rib.

Straighten that portion of the rib first by making it flat.
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2018, 09:24 AM
sblack sblack is offline
 
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The proseal idea is good. If you don't have any some JB weld would work - put some grease on the cleco. I would first try to see if I could put a stick in there to press the flange against the skin for riveting but be careful not to create a bulge.

I always drill out rivets with a #41 drill to avoid elongation. It makes things easier and you can still snap off the head and punch out the shank.

If you have 1 rivet out of all of them on a rib that is a bit less than perfect there won't be a safety issue. It really comes down to how OCD you are.
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