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  #11  
Old 01-17-2013, 07:17 PM
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Jetguy Jetguy is offline
 
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Default Yep, looks like another one.

Yes looks like another oops!

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RV12 N1212K
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1020 Hours as of 9/30/2017
Johnrv12@icloud.com
RV14 Wing, arrived and building at Rdog's new Hanger at 16X
S/N 140014
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  #12  
Old 01-25-2013, 09:46 PM
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Question More Oops!

Ok several things are wrong on this page. I think they have all been stated previously except for one.
First, in the green highlighted area you need to countersink those hole for the flush rivets also shown in the green, this
countersink step was left out. Two, the holes in the blue highlighted area should actually be countersinked deeper
because there will be dimpled skin riveted there per page 18-2. The dimpled skin will be the flap gap fairing.
Three, I'm not sure how big a deal this will be, but when I read Step 6 it seemed important. See the purple arrow.
A standard 6N bolt is actually a couple of hundreds smaller than a perfect 3/8 inch hole. I asked Vans tech support
if they were going to use a close tolerance bolt and they said no it was going to be a standard 6N bolt. So you other
builders might want to use an under size reamer. See what I'm talking about here at Avery tools,
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15359
That's it for now.

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John
RV12 N1212K
Flying Since June 2010
1020 Hours as of 9/30/2017
Johnrv12@icloud.com
RV14 Wing, arrived and building at Rdog's new Hanger at 16X
S/N 140014
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  #13  
Old 01-25-2013, 11:26 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
Posts: 7,651
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetguy View Post
Ok several things are wrong on this page. I think they have all been stated previously except for one.
First, in the green highlighted area you need to countersink those hole for the flush rivets also shown in the green, this
countersink step was left out. Two, the holes in the blue highlighted area should actually be countersinked deeper
because there will be dimpled skin riveted there per page 18-2. The dimpled skin will be the flap gap fairing.
Three, I'm not sure how big a deal this will be, but when I read Step 6 it seemed important. See the purple arrow.
A standard 6N bolt is actually a couple of hundreds smaller than a perfect 3/8 inch hole. I asked Vans tech support
if they were going to use a close tolerance bolt and they said no it was going to be a standard 6N bolt. So you other
builders might want to use an under size reamer. See what I'm talking about here at Avery tools,
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15359
That's it for now.
Actually, the green highlight is not meant to be counter sunk. The rivets are incorrectly called out as AN426 (though it is not a problem if they get countersunk, just extra un=needed work). Only the row that has the balloon around it should be countersunk.

A bunch of plans revisions will be released soon correcting all of the issues noted in this thread.
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  #14  
Old 01-26-2013, 07:04 AM
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Default Vans Tech Support!

Quote:
Actually, the green highlight is not meant to be counter sunk. The rivets are incorrectly called out as AN426 (though it is not a problem if they get countersunk, just extra un=needed work). Only the row that has the balloon around it should be countersunk.
Scott, Please let Sterling know in Tech Support about this correction because when I talked to him Friday morning he was unaware of this change.
Thanks for the update!
PS What size rivet goes in those holes?
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RV12 N1212K
Flying Since June 2010
1020 Hours as of 9/30/2017
Johnrv12@icloud.com
RV14 Wing, arrived and building at Rdog's new Hanger at 16X
S/N 140014

Last edited by Jetguy : 01-26-2013 at 07:09 AM.
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  #15  
Old 01-26-2013, 07:07 AM
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KCBerner KCBerner is offline
 
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Location: Burleson, TX
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Default 3/8 hole

So "hypothetically" ... What would the implications be if I used a standard 3/8 inch reamer on one wing already? Should I go ahead and do the other wing with it or am I going to have to replace those parts?

Should I just leave it and use a close tolerance bolt?
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  #16  
Old 01-26-2013, 08:58 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
Actually, the green highlight is not meant to be counter sunk. The rivets are incorrectly called out as AN426 (though it is not a problem if they get countersunk, just extra un=needed work). Only the row that has the balloon around it should be countersunk.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetguy View Post
Scott, Please let Sterling know in Tech Support about this correction because when I talked to him Friday morning he was unaware of this change.
Thanks for the update!
PS What size rivet goes in those holes?
Retract that last statement....
I think I made a mistake, and that row (highlighted green) does also need to be flush rivets (nose of flap contacts that area when fully retracted).

I will double check on Monday and post a verification here.
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  #17  
Old 01-26-2013, 09:03 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by KCBerner View Post
So "hypothetically" ... What would the implications be if I used a standard 3/8 inch reamer on one wing already? Should I go ahead and do the other wing with it or am I going to have to replace those parts?

Should I just leave it and use a close tolerance bolt?
A change in the recommended reamer size is not a planned revision.

As long as a drill press (with an accurately leveled table) is used, a 3/8 reamer is fine.
As always, you are the builder so you have the final authority in choosing what you think is right.
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  #18  
Old 01-26-2013, 09:09 AM
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KCBerner KCBerner is offline
 
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Default Drill Press

Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
As long as a drill press (with an accurately leveled table) is used, a 3/8 reamer is fine.
Great. That's what I did.
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  #19  
Old 01-28-2013, 08:44 AM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
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Default

[quote=rvbuilder2002;738371]Retract that last statement....
I think I made a mistake, and that row (highlighted green) does also need to be flush rivets (nose of flap contacts that area when fully retracted).

Correction of my original post.
The bottom row of rivets on the W-1007C are specified to be flush AN426's to assure no rivet interference with L.E. of the flap when it is fully retracted.
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  #20  
Old 01-29-2013, 06:40 PM
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Jetguy Jetguy is offline
 
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Default Wing walk doubler!

Ran into a little clich today while prepping the inboard wing skin and doublers.
As you can see in the picture the rear wing walk doubler W1027B has the holes pointed out in the wrong place. I'm pretty sure this is the same part that is used on the RV10 which has 3 flap hinge points instead of 2 like the RV14 (correct me if I'm wrong). So I think that's the problem, we have the RV10 part that has not been pre drilled yet to fit the RV14. If any of you other guys have the same problem sound off here so we will know its not just us. The inboard wing skin W00002 has the holes in the correct place as you can see just above the empty drawn circle in the picture. We called Vans to let them know about the discrepancy. The fix is the match drill the holes through the upper skin first then match drill through the W1025BL flap hinge bracket.


Missing hole location.

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RV12 N1212K
Flying Since June 2010
1020 Hours as of 9/30/2017
Johnrv12@icloud.com
RV14 Wing, arrived and building at Rdog's new Hanger at 16X
S/N 140014
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