VansAirForceForums  
Home > VansAirForceForums

- POSTING RULES
- Donate yearly (please).
- Advertise in here!

- Today's Posts | Insert Pics

  #21  
Old 06-27-2020, 02:58 PM
Sam Buchanan's Avatar
Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
been here awhile
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,272
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by swjohnsey View Post
New one is only $50, rebulit half that.
The "new" alternator may actually be an off-shore reman or clone. It is possible to get good service from these remans or it is possible to get a real clinker with sketchy workmanship. If you have a local alternator shop my first choice would be to have them look at the alternator and replace anything needed. It is important to have reliable bearings.....bad diodes might keep the alternator from charging but bad bearings can potentially result in bits and pieces of alternator in the engine compartment or a slung belt if we are lucky.

I've been using "1977 Honda" alternators (14184) in my RV-6 for twenty years. I've had three....one of which ate the bearings in a couple of years, the other two giving good service (currently flying the third one). But anecdotal evidence seems to indicate a possible decline in reman quality the past few years.
__________________
Sam Buchanan
RV-6
Fokker D.VII replica

Last edited by Sam Buchanan : 06-27-2020 at 03:12 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 06-27-2020, 03:19 PM
swjohnsey swjohnsey is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Kingsville, TX
Posts: 147
Default

The 14129 I bought is listed as all new, probably a clone. When I get it on I will take the take-off to a starter-generator place in Corpus Christ for a post mortem and possible refresh as a spare.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 06-30-2020, 10:22 AM
swjohnsey swjohnsey is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Kingsville, TX
Posts: 147
Default

So pulled the alternator this morning and took it to Autozone for testing. Guy said it was putting out 8v. Just for grins I asked them if they had anything in stock that would fit. Nope, not for 14129 or 14184 but they can get one in about a week. Fortunately my new alternator off ebay will be here on Thursday.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 07-04-2020, 12:36 PM
swjohnsey swjohnsey is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Kingsville, TX
Posts: 147
Default

No joy in Mudville! Installed the new alternator. Only glitch was one hole in the alternator body was bushed to a smaller size and the bushing stuck out. Had to cut it off flush. As a precaution, took the alternator to Autozone and had it tested after getting the pulley on and it tested O.K. Was going to fly to KPIL to watch the CAF take off for 4th fly over. Not charging, back to KIKG.

So, new alternator that I know works. New voltage regulator that I'm not sure works. I need some help trouble shooting. The alternator has the plastic connector with two spade terminals. I can't see anything damaged. There is also the connector that goes on a post terminal that might be the field. The voltage regulator is out of a car. It is sealed and has two terminals, one that was marked "Field" that is a post terminal and the other out of the epoxy sealed back. I am guessing the epoxy sealed wire is the input and the "field" is the out to the alternator.

What sould I be getting in and out from the voltage regulator with the master switch on and engine not running. What should I see to the alternator field master on, engine not running.

I am pretty sure the ammeter is working correctly as my voltage is slowing going down and I have two different sources for voltage.
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 07-04-2020, 02:04 PM
Ralph Inkster Ralph Inkster is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 863
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by swjohnsey View Post
The 14129 I bought is listed as all new, probably a clone. When I get it on I will take the take-off to a starter-generator place in Corpus Christ for a post mortem and possible refresh as a spare.
Ah, you had the solution already!

Pack it all up (new alt & VR) and take it down to your starter-generator place and ask them to show you how it's supposed to be wired up. Not the parts store, they are good at looking things up but most likely wouldn't have the right experience to advise how it all works.
Also, confirm your Alt switch is actually working...
__________________
Ralph
It's time to work on just my own planes, not everybody else's...

Last edited by Ralph Inkster : 07-04-2020 at 02:09 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 07-04-2020, 02:44 PM
rv8ch's Avatar
rv8ch rv8ch is offline
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: LSGY
Posts: 2,953
Default Something is loose

Several very smart guys on here have suggested that you look for a loose connection - that's where I'd start.
__________________
Mickey Coggins
http://rv8.ch
"Hello, world!"
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 07-04-2020, 02:58 PM
swjohnsey swjohnsey is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Kingsville, TX
Posts: 147
Default

The joys of livin' in the stix, there ain't no alternator/generator place.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 07-04-2020, 03:02 PM
swjohnsey swjohnsey is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Kingsville, TX
Posts: 147
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rv8ch View Post
Several very smart guys on here have suggested that you look for a loose connection - that's where I'd start.
I'm off to look for loose connections and blown fuses. The original alternator tested bad. The RV-4 has a mixture of fuses and circuit breakers. I'm thinking there has to be a fuse/circuit breaker for the alternator field and possibly one on the output end as well. The master switch in a twofer, both sides seem to be working properly.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 07-04-2020, 04:17 PM
Sam Buchanan's Avatar
Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
been here awhile
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,272
Default

Well.....if you don't know where all the fuses and circuit breakers in your plane are located and what each one does......guess this is a good time to figure all that out.

Your alternator is functionally the same as my 14184, the only difference is the mounting ears. The 14129 is for mid-60 to mid-70's Toyotas, the 14184 is mid-70's Honda, both are 35a.

I don't know anything about the Chrysler regulator, but know for a fact the 1975 Ford LTD regulator works nicely with these alternators. If you need wiring pinouts I can look those up for you. The alternator and regulator MUST be well grounded.
__________________
Sam Buchanan
RV-6
Fokker D.VII replica

Last edited by Sam Buchanan : 07-04-2020 at 04:20 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 07-04-2020, 04:26 PM
Sam Buchanan's Avatar
Sam Buchanan Sam Buchanan is offline
been here awhile
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Alabama
Posts: 4,272
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by swjohnsey View Post
I'm off to look for loose connections and blown fuses. The original alternator tested bad. The RV-4 has a mixture of fuses and circuit breakers. I'm thinking there has to be a fuse/circuit breaker for the alternator field and possibly one on the output end as well. The master switch in a twofer, both sides seem to be working properly.
A high resistance master switch can play havoc with the charging system by creating random breaker trips.
__________________
Sam Buchanan
RV-6
Fokker D.VII replica
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:36 AM.


The VAFForums come to you courtesy Delta Romeo, LLC. By viewing and participating in them you agree to build your plane using standardized methods and practices and to fly it safely and in accordance with the laws governing the country you are located in.