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Elevator skin riveting....why did they do it this way?

R

RandyAB

Well Known Member
I've started the final assembly of the elevators and am looking forward in the plans to see how things need to be done. When it comes time to rivet the rear spar to the skin I see that the R bottom is done first but on the L side the L top is done first. That means that the more precarious riveting with the custom bucking bar is done on the L bottom and the R top.

I'm used to doing things in the same fashion on one side as the other and am wondering what the difference is here? Is there a reason why it has to be done this way?
 
If I remember correctly after checking the plans, the rib halves with the rear flange need to be riveted to the rear spar before the second skin is installed. Since the rib halves are identical, facing the flange outboard puts the halves with the rear flange on opposite skins. So top on one side and bottom on the other (page 9-11).
 
Yea, it seems like it is more of an artifact of utilizing "common parts" vs having to stock "L" and "R" ribs (potentially increasing cost to manufacture that would be passed on to us)

I decided not to make / purchase the custom bucking bar and just used blind rivets for attaching the rear spar.
 
Hi Randy-
I'm completing mine now and had no issues following the plans other than the added 30 seconds to make sure which "side" was "up", etc. Their logic has to do with:
1) Not riveting the TOP skin in the cutouts for the trim tab hinge that gets added a few pages later, and
2) Making buck mistakes on the BOTTOM first, so as to be more practiced on the cosmetically-important top!

NOTE WELL: Page 9-12, Step 5: Van's inadvertently "FORGOT" to state, "[rivet the rear spar to the skin] EXCEPT in the trim tab cut out." It is later stated on page 9-15 as part of Step 6. Glad logic played well and I read ahead..then called them to confirm. :)

Lastly, I bought the special bar from Cleaveland but was still intimidated at the actual procedure. Found a few pictures & youtube videos, and found it to be actually quite simple, even fast. Took me about five minutes per spar to get those flush rivets in.

Good luck, Build On!
 
Jets410 said:
Hi Randy-
I'm completing mine now and had no issues following the plans other than the added 30 seconds to make sure which "side" was "up", etc. Their logic has to do with:
1) Not riveting the TOP skin in the cutouts for the trim tab hinge that gets added a few pages later, and
2) Making buck mistakes on the BOTTOM first, so as to be more practiced on the cosmetically-important top!

NOTE WELL: Page 9-12, Step 5: Van's inadvertently "FORGOT" to state, "[rivet the rear spar to the skin] EXCEPT in the trim tab cut out." It is later stated on page 9-15 as part of Step 6. Glad logic played well and I read ahead..then called them to confirm. :)

Lastly, I bought the special bar from Cleaveland but was still intimidated at the actual procedure. Found a few pictures & youtube videos, and found it to be actually quite simple, even fast. Took me about five minutes per spar to get those flush rivets in.

Good luck, Build On!
Click to expand...

Do you have a link of the youtube video you can send. I did a quick search and didn't find a relevant video.
 
Hi Bavafa-
Sadly, I did not copy the link, but noodled around for a bit until I found one. That said, the manufactured bucking par procedure is rediculously simple (I learned), despite how complicated it seems:
1. Set elevator back about 6-8 inches from bench edge.
2. The shop head will buck in the cutout groove at the end, so that end goes up against the rivet. Stick the bar between the skin edges like you're inserting a knife in-between two slices of bread. Please forgive rudimentary analogies.
3. Make sure end of bar is seated flush up against inside of rear spar; you can see this visually by peeking in between the skins, and prove it by being able to push the rivet up out of its hole with the bar groove.
4. Now you've got about 6-8" of bar hanging out over the edge of the bench. Set mushroom over rivet with one hand, push down on bar over bench edge with other...and buck!

Good luck!
 
Jets410 said:
Hi Bavafa-
Sadly, I did not copy the link, but noodled around for a bit until I found one. That said, the manufactured bucking par procedure is rediculously simple (I learned), despite how complicated it seems:
1. Set elevator back about 6-8 inches from bench edge.
2. The shop head will buck in the cutout groove at the end, so that end goes up against the rivet. Stick the bar between the skin edges like you're inserting a knife in-between two slices of bread. Please forgive rudimentary analogies.
3. Make sure end of bar is seated flush up against inside of rear spar; you can see this visually by peeking in between the skins, and prove it by being able to push the rivet up out of its hole with the bar groove.
4. Now you've got about 6-8" of bar hanging out over the edge of the bench. Set mushroom over rivet with one hand, push down on bar over bench edge with other...and buck!

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Cheers for the tip.
 
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