Installing forward top skin F-671

I am planning to wait on installing the forward top skin F-671 until I have installed all of the avionics for ease of access. I have predrilled the skin and have clecoed it in place. Mine is a slider so I will not have the access afforded to builders with the tip up.

My question is this a standard practice or am I setting myself up for some difficult riveting with all of the avionics in the way. I figured I would ask before I leapt.

Thanks in advance.

The forward top skin was the last one I riveted on my tip-up, but I did fabricate some access panels in that skin so I could get to the electronic boxes forward of the sub panel. I could reach through these access points to get to the rivets.

Thanks for the reply. I updated my question to add that I am building a slider.

6A forward top skin F-6106

Paul, if you make the instrument panel removable using #8 screw platenuts (I did this on my first 6A), the job of riveting the forward top skin later on is easier. On my first 6a the instrument panel supplied in the kit became a sub panel of sorts and I fabricated three sections that screwed on, one with a six pack (I know but it what I trained on), a center section with the radio stack, and a third section on the right with all the engine instruments. The advantage of course is that each section may be unscrewed and pulled aft as you sit in the seats for maintenance and/or repairs.

I'm in the middle of the same area now and planning a workable order of forward interior fuse painting, rudder pedal assembly placement, wiring through the firewall, easy permanent placement of fuel vent and supply lines as well as brake lines to say nothing of the "black boxes for EFIS, EMS, and ADSB. However, I do not plan to rivet on the forward top skin until I need to fiberglass the lower forward edge of the windscreen.

What about the section right behind the firewall but in front of the sub panel? Just reach your hand up underneath the sub panel? I am not in my shop and I know that "sub panel" is probably not the correct term.

Forward skin

You can hold off on riveting this skin on until all your avionics is wired in.
I used MK-319 pop rivets under the areas of the windshield and windscreen fairings. All of the other holes got back riveted except the #4 rivets up at the longeron/firewall mounts.
If you do get a couple of pop rivets out in the open, just fill them with JB weld and gently wipe off any excess with MEK so that the hole in the pop rivet is filled up. After primer and painting, you can't really see them.
One thing I would do if you have access to a sheet metal roller and before you dimple the skins is roll the skin in the roller so it puts a slight curl in the sheet metal in the cross direction. This will help you edges lay down nicely when you rivet them to the main longeron and you won't get any puckering.
It's a bad spot to get puckers since everyone is looking at eye level in these areas.

thanks for the input. I will push on with my plans.

Paul. To Aden's point, the intersection of the longeron and the top skin at and just aft of the firewall is an area you will want to pay close attention to before you zip down your top skin. For some reason, this area typically needs quite a bit of shimming to make a smooth transition. Rolling this as Aden says will also help and give you a better shot at getting the shims right.
I see a lot of 6's where this area is not as smooth as it could be, mine included. It isn't a big deal, but a little time and effort here will improve that intersection aesthetically.
I can go down the line of 6's at any gathering and see similar challenges. Not sure why other models don't seem to suffer as much.

Thanks,
I have had it Cleco'd down and I did not notice anything out of line. I will check it when I reinstall it.

219PB said:

Thanks,
I have had it Cleco'd down and I did not notice anything out of line. I will check it when I reinstall it.

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It won't show until you start setting the rivets. Take a strip of .025 and use it as a guide so you can see behind it. If it lays flat at all points of that intersection, your good.

Panel

Best mod that I made to my plane was removeable inst panel in three parts!

JonJay said:

It won't show until you start setting the rivets. Take a strip of .025 and use it as a guide so you can see behind it. If it lays flat at all points of that intersection, your good.

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Thanks, I will really give this the scrutiny that it requires. Everyone is correct, this is a location that will be noticed.

6 Gun said:

Best mod that I made to my plane was removeable inst panel in three parts!

Click to expand...

I am planning for my panel to be removable in one piece. I am going to be installing a duel Skyview. I can remove on the of displays and will give me some good access.

I have two 10" Skyviews. I can have them both out in 15 minutes and access anything I want to behind the panel.