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  #11  
Old 11-05-2018, 07:32 AM
DeltaVee47 DeltaVee47 is offline
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Houston, Tx
Posts: 35
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Thanks to everyone for the input.
I will give the pins awhile longer since they are already there, the cowl looks good and I want to get flying. Iím also put off by the price for the Skybolt product. Wow.
Greg Beckner
N557GB
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  #12  
Old 11-05-2018, 10:08 AM
n982sx n982sx is offline
 
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Location: Chicago, IL
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Beolube helps a lot and after you get used to it, they work pretty well.

That said, if you want to get the top cowl off right after shut down, it is pretty hot under there!
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Built and Flying RV-14A N626KM SN 140093 http://n626km.com
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  #13  
Old 11-05-2018, 10:09 AM
Aluminum Aluminum is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M McGraw View Post
Instead of boelube I use a telfon lube from autozone. It goes on wet then drys to white teflon power. It does not get my hands dirty during install/removal.
I'm partial to Boeshield T-9; makes dry film and lasts for ever.

I'm curious has anyone tried "seasoning" the hinges using valve grinding compound or similar abrasive?
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'91 Zodiac flying since 2013
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  #14  
Old 11-05-2018, 10:16 AM
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MarkW MarkW is offline
 
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Location: Edgewater, FL. KSFB
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During my build I had heard of issues with the upper cowl bowing up during flight due to the cowl pressure and the slack in the pins.
I also did not like the short pin on one side and a long one on the other with access through the oil door.
I copied a friend and added a small aluminum block to the top middle of the cowl. This screws to a bracket riveted to the firewall. Fiberglassing a lip for it to sit in this holds the cowl down and gives access to equal length pins.
Worked great for five years, holds the cowl from bowing up and make the pins easy.

Best picture I could find of the hole.
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RV9 - N14MW - Flying
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Last edited by MarkW : 11-05-2018 at 10:19 AM.
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  #15  
Old 11-05-2018, 11:03 AM
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Veetail88 Veetail88 is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Hales Corners, WI
Posts: 873
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I had used Skybolts for just the upper firewall on my 8 prior to first flight. After three and a half years of cussing the piano hinges I bit the bullet and picked up the Skybolts for the remainder and installed them this past spring.

I could not be happier with them? 3 minutes with a phillips screw driver and the cowl is off!

The install was a bit tricky with the engine in the airplane but quite do-able. It helped that I haven't painted yet.



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N229Z - RV-8 - Flying - Livin' the dream!
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  #16  
Old 11-05-2018, 12:21 PM
rvbuilder2002 rvbuilder2002 is offline
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Hubbard Oregon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkW View Post
During my build I had heard of issues with the upper cowl bowing up during flight due to the cowl pressure and the slack in the pins.
The RV-14 standard install is different from the RV-9 in that it uses full sized pins in the hinge and the hinge break is much closer to the upper center of the cowl. The RV-14 cowl does not balloon out at all between the hinges.

The RV-10 uses external access to the aft pins because there is no internal access via the oil door (on the 540 engine the dip stick tube and oil door are on top of the engine). It was thought that most builders would prefer the cleaner look so this method was not used on the RV-14 but it could be incorporated easily if a builder chose to do so.
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  #17  
Old 11-05-2018, 01:12 PM
Bavafa Bavafa is offline
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Sacramento, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M McGraw View Post
Just an opinion, but I like the pins as well. They are low cost and clean. Instead of boelube I use a telfon lube from autozone. It goes on wet then drys to white teflon power. It does not get my hands dirty during install/removal. Take the time to bend the pins very close to the firewall curvature and they work easily.
I used a different Teflon (dry) lube from Lowes that is goes on wet and dries to a white powder (usually use them on my table saw) and it was awful. It made the pin worse than dry and without a lubrication. I ended up cleaning all the eyelet and use Bluelube.
Like many others, I hated it the pins at the beginning but now love it. It is much faster than screws and it looks all clean.
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RV7A - IO360M1B - SOLD
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  #18  
Old 11-05-2018, 03:54 PM
sblack sblack is offline
 
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Location: Montreal
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I am using skybolts on the top cowl. I saw a friend who did this and he could remove it in 30sec for a good preflight. Bottom is still piano hinge because with the top off I can see most everything.
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  #19  
Old 11-05-2018, 05:31 PM
mturnerb mturnerb is offline
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ponte Vedra, FL
Posts: 743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rvbuilder2002 View Post
The RV-14 standard install is different from the RV-9 in that it uses full sized pins in the hinge and the hinge break is much closer to the upper center of the cowl. The RV-14 cowl does not balloon out at all between the hinges.

The RV-10 uses external access to the aft pins because there is no internal access via the oil door (on the 540 engine the dip stick tube and oil door are on top of the engine). It was thought that most builders would prefer the cleaner look so this method was not used on the RV-14 but it could be incorporated easily if a builder chose to do so.
Any resources to show how a builder might do this?
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  #20  
Old 11-05-2018, 06:33 PM
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GaryK GaryK is offline
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Zeeland, Michigan
Posts: 342
Default Drill Rod

McMaster sells drill rod material, it comes in many sizes. Someone posted this a long time ago. Purchase a few rods a few thousands smaller and see which one fits tight but not so tight you need to use a pair of vice grips Once you get some time on the plane you can go up in size if needed to keep a nice tight fit.

Gary
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